Thanks for the comment that they could be cork.

As for the spacers. There is 4 of the round ones in total. The two that are circled are how the transfer case came. I could not for the life of me get these two bolts to unscrew. Even with heat and a breaker bar they wouldn’t turn loose. So I just left them alone. Also on the chassis cross piece you can see that the spacer disks went between the case and the bracket. I think it’s just a matter of getting it nudged enough with some punches and it will suddenly line up. It’s very very close.

New mounting hardware is on order with the fastener shop for the transmission case. I also rechecked the parts book and there was a spacer between the bottom of the frame and the mount. All is good.

Today I went and stopped by the Transaxle shop in Stoney Creek. I brought in some of the driveshaft parts and the original U joints. Before I could even begin to explain what I was looking for, he read out all of the part numbers I would need. I knew I was at the right place. I told him how many of each I needed and after a few minutes he came from the back with everything in stock. This was also the same shop that rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate.

I’ve included all of the boxes with the interesting bits layed out for future reference.

Don't you just love standardisation ! You couldn't do that with a British vehicle !

David

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

eBrake drum issue? See if there's any way to retract the (probably stuck) brake shoes. I've wrestled with your problem more than once. Oh, and don't drop the whole thing on your head seeing as three quarters of it is supported on axle stands (if it was me I'd put the other three wheels back on before going aggressive on the last one).

I'm not clear which removal is causing trouble.

Wheel from drum/ hub? Confirm someone in past hasn't switched a left side / left hand thread to the right side or vice versa so the threads operate in reverse - tighten when you would expect loosening?

Separating the wheel half sections to remove the tire? Does keeping the old tire matter to you (it looks well weathered...)? Lots of heat on the nuts and a serious impact wrench (but be aware that too much heat can cause pyrolysis - spontaneous, uncontrolled heat/explosion of the tire)? Chainsaw the tire off the rim and then fight the wire beads off the individual rim sections?

Drum/hub from axle? Maybe undo the lower adjusters and let them move into the drum and relax the shoes? BFH? Check for a seized parking brake cable?

Just trying to get the wheel rim off of the drum. Im not quite at the stage of taking the drums off.

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.

Some of the old/original tires are almost woodlike in texture....
Yes, I've honestly done it. Obviously, ensure the tire is fully deflated first. Then with some care (as for every use of chainsaw) with the saw bar at about 45 degree angle from the tire and rim lying on the ground gently work your way around the tire cutting just deeply enough to cut the carcass, no need to go through the tube unless you want to. I believe it is easier and safer to do a shallow cut for control and a second pass if needed rather than plunging deeply and risking binding. (It has never happened and I don't want to give it a chance to happen.) Leave enough clearance to the rim for your comfort, no need to ruin chains trying to cut the rim. Flip over and repeat to free the other side. Bob Carriere may have photos of the process under way. It's easier to separate the rim halves before cutting the bead of the tire off the rim but it can be done with the rim assembled (except for runflats where the bead lock gets in the way). I tend to use an angle grinder and cut-off wheel to cut the steel bead wires, Rob Clarke prefers to use a cold chisel - personal preference, they both work.
I haven't seen any tires with steel plies on CMP rims but I suppose it is possible and the chainsaw method is not suitable for these tires, check with care before starting work. I've found the process to work beautifully on the original multiple cotton/rayon/whatever ply tires (i.e. 10 ply rather than 10 ply rated), not sure if it is because of the plies or the aging of the rubber, but also used it on newer (ply rated) tires without issue.
I leave it to you to decide if I'm a fool who should have killed myself through bad technique or if this technique suits you.

Finally after a lot of work the nuts are all off. A lot of heat from the torch was used and things slowly loosened up with an impact gun.

Good job, Jordan. Did you pour yourself a tall cold one when you were done?

David

So the rims are out. My tire guy got all of the rims out of the tires last night in about 20min using a heavy truck mobile tire service truck. Apparently having the rights tools did wonders and saved a whole heck of a lot of work. So this morning I loaded up my Jeep with a pile of parts and dropped them off at the sandblasters. 2hrs later he calls to say everything is done. This afternoon I did the usual paint prep stuff and sprayed on some gloss DOM16 (Cnd equivalent to POR).

Jordan, how are you going to clean up the stud threads?

Can't say I've heard of chainsaw used for this before either. But it makes sense. The wider kerf created by the chain instead of using a narrow blade probably makes it easier. Just don't do it in of doors. Watched a guy do some cutting in his basement with one. Filled the house with blue smoke :)

Matt

I’ve got a 7/8 BSF tap and die to clean up the stud and nut threads in he rims once everything is painted.

Don't Canadian wheels have UNC (then ANC) threads ? It is quite possible that you have a mixture depending on the origin of the truck.

David

saw
 

I removed the RF tyres off the CS8 rims with the help of a chainsaw. It cut through the tough old heavy thick rubber with ease. Cut a V wedge and chisel through the bead cable wire

These rims are all stamped “General Motors Canada, 1941”. The outer clamping bolts/nuts are 7/8-11 BSF. The studs to hold the rims to the hubs is 5/8-18 left and right thread depending on what side of the vehicle it’s on.

The rims are all now painted. Next up will be cleaning the threads in both the studs and nuts then installing the tires.

Well that is pretty conclusive ! Thanks for putting me right.

David

The NOS wheel nuts arrived.

Picked up the new tubes yesterday from my order off of Dobermann Tire. Very fast service and great to buy from.

Today I managed to get two tires fully installed on the rims with everything going smoothly. The third tire was being a bit harder to get the bead to pop on the rim. Checking after supper and it popped onto the rim. This leaves two more rims to go.

Finally all 5 tires are mounted back on the rims. All went rather easily considering how many posts are on here with people having trouble.

Deflate them and you'll find out if they popped in place or if they merely covered the edge of the rim. You should always deflate then re-inflate an inner tube type tire anyway to make sure the inner tube has not folded over on itself during installation.

They were inflated and deflated a number of times each. Most of the tires did a very “satisfying” (scary loud) pop when the bead went into place on the rim.

Perfect then.

And just to clarify (or rather, add to the confusion), are the tires you've fitted Specialty Tires of America 9.00-16 NDT onto regular C15A 16" rims (not HUP?)

They must be "real" CMP 16" wheels, HUP have 6 studs to mount to the hub rather than 8.

Yep, got that, just painting a clear picture on the "fitting tires to 16" wheels" problems.

Yes the rims are General Motors Canada 1941 stamped. The tires are STA 900-16 tires. They fit just fine and were easy to install.

Not much to report lately. I’ve been busy working on some other stuff. But I did pick up my order for all new bearings for the driveline on the truck.