So I didn't care much for him growing up but now that I am older I can finally see the benefit to having an older brother...and the fact that he is a machinist with a full CNC shop is just icing on the cake..

These are the turret hold down fixtures that not only retain the turret but also help keep it centered on the turret bearings...well on the M5A1 you need 8 of them...and I had one..so after searching for a few months we decided to make new ones..

Attachment 77519 Attachment 77518 Attachment 77520 Attachment 77521 Attachment 77522

Just a few profiles to cut on the outside, evidently I have to do this on the Bridgeport manual because "someone" is too busy making aircraft parts...

Hi John
The stuart looks like it has come a long way since the last time I saw it
great work keep going. By the way thanks for the offer I will not be needing the track section
We got the M6 up and ready to move just dancing with the snow on the mountain hopefully we can get her down real soon been about 4 years waiting
Rick

Rick it is moving along pretty good, but it's amazing how life keeps getting in the way and you realize it has been two weeks since you touched the tank or made any progress. Good luck with the M6 recovery, not many of those old girls around!

John

Hey Rick! welcome aboard MLU!

Hi Harry
Joined back in 2010 been distracted for the last few years with family issues
but now its full steam a head . Lots of projects coming in the new year. Been working on the M6 and also starting on the 1943 White 444T tractor unit we got from Williams lake this year Jesse put it on youtube under White 444T its in great shape except for the extra axel

I am rather worried that what you have done is a cosmetic repair rather than a mechanical one. To the best of my knowledge, rust on gears is much more of a problem than it first appears. Yes it can be removed, but the issue is that the gears have a surface hardening and a softer "inner". If the surface has been sufficiently removed or damaged by pitting, the "inner" will not stand the wear loads.
Final drives are a highly loaded item and any failure will be spectacular - worse at speed.
A friend of mine in the UK had a final drive (epicylic) lock up on him in a CVRT Striker, fortunately it was just as he had slowed to enter a round about (no idea what you call them in Canada - traffic circle?). It slewed him and left him blocking the entrance to the round about. He called on a friend, they broke the track and pulled it onto a nature strip then towed it home with his Saladin. Total time was 2 to 3 hours.

Now granted a CVRT is a much more complicated final drive than a US WW2 design, so the failure mode is probably more spectacular, I suspect the failure mode for a Stuart one would be stripping of the teeth. This would then mean no drive on that side, which sounds tame. Bear in mind that US tracked (eg M113) vehicle training states that if a track is lost (which is the equivalent to this failure), the driver is forbidden to brake the good side as the result will be a slew and rollover. The only time braking is considered is if a collision of greater threat to life is about to happen.
Pretty dire stuff.

If you don't believe me, give it a try on any brake steer (US WW2 or FV432) style vehicle. Even fairly slow, any attempt to stop with just one tiller results in a sharp response on that side. I tried it last weekend on dirt as a check before writing this email and it is indeed a sharp response.

I suggest you be careful about speed and do continual oil checking for metal. If your final drive plugs are the same as the ones on my M3A1 Stuart, they should have magnetic inserts in them. If not, I suggest you obtain some (they do exist in the civilian world), quite likely some of the US specialist hardware companies stock them.

Regards
Doug
www.owningtanks.com

Doug

precisely why I used the molasses and water to remove the rust, the process of chelation will not remove the hardness from the gears as would acid, sand blasting or chemical stripping. The sugars in the molasses do not have the ability to penetrate the surface of the metal just the rust on top...after the gears and bearings were washed and oiled thoroughly they were inspected for damage and pitting. I am keenly aware that if the hardness of gears is effected you end up with a mess, I owned my own trucking company and have plenty of experience in the replacement of heavy truck differentials. We found that after a truck had sat for a year or more, the top of the ring gear inside the differential was often rusty as it had sat out of the oil for the extended period. On good quality gear sets this never proved a problem if the oil was changed regularly after the truck was put back in service...but if they were cheap import gears...a slight brown tinge of rust signaled immediate replacement lest they "grenade" and take out more parts or cause an accident...

Interior painted...time to assemble
 

Got the interior painted today, couple coats of epoxy primer followed by two coats of gloss white...should be able to start bolting parts in by the weekend

Attachment 86051

Take the time to enjoy the view.

In a tank engine bay - from Shine to Grime just takes time.......

Well at least, that has always been my experience. Hasn't stopped me
trying to fix all the oil leaks and keep things as clean as possible.

Regards
Doug

I was thinking the same thing Doug. As this is going to be a well used vehicle, movie rentals, a gig for a online computer game and even make some appearances for a certain energy drink company who claims to give you wings, I have resigned myself to this being the best it will look inside for a very long time...how short lived was that? 50 some odd years rusting away, sandblasted and two years sitting in primer...4 days glorious shiny white....and it starts all over, downhill again

Running and driving...still tons of work to do but can see the light at the end of the tunnel

Attachment 86403

Staurt
 

Looks great .

Excellent, job well done!

Job Well Done
 

Hi John

Have enjoyed your progress reports, great that you have reached the point where the old girl is back together and moving under its own power.

You took on a big project and did it proud.

Cheers Phil

PS Just read the next new thread and see what your target for completion, very appropriate.

Thanks all, the advice and support of all on the MLU forum has been a great resource in my progress, would be hard to accomplish projects like this without it!

John

Six years ago...

Attachment 86457 Attachment 86458

Some assembly required
 

Hi John

When you look at the before pictures, of the some assembly required, starting point for your project it puts even more light on the nature of your accomplishment.

Cheers Phil

Thanks Phil

Yeah, like I said lots of work to go, but she's getting there!

You've come a long way since I saw it in your shop early this year. Having never seen the original condition, I am even more impressed with the progress. Makes me wonder if some of those range targets we popped at years ago have been recovered and restored. I'm sure its pretty satisfying to get even this far. Makes me feel like I need to do a lot more on my stuff as the time just slides away and the lineup gets longer... You can never have too many projects!

More, more....
 

Wow John! That's a "teaser". Now we all need to see more footage.
The Stuart is running like a champ. I thought that Suburban was going to get it. :thup2:

Hi Wayne, yeah and that was only 2nd gear! I will leave it to the new owner to crush the first car, and I'm not sure how I would explain to ICBC how I managed to run over my own truck...with a tank