Thanks for the pictures of the bolt, What is the overall length of it and I assume it is drilled and taped on the end to thread onto the stud on the intake ? I will have to see where I put that guard and will take some better pictures of it and post them.

Dave

cheers Dave if you could and perhaps take some measurements it would help us that need that bit a whole bunch...


Richie

Hi Dave
 

Bolt length o/all 4.125 (4 1/8") Head 11mm(7/16") Head is 1.000" accross the flats. Tube dia.= 19mm(3/4") The hole has been drilled 76mm, but only threaded to 40mm
O/all thickness of square washer=8.6mm. 32mm high and 34mm wide.
Round washer 4mm thick. The manifold stud looks like 9/16" UNF. Use a good bit of steel. A lot hangs off it.
On another subject, I see in your 3rd picture of post #5. on the extreme right of the picture, you have some leather rear hull/actuator rod seals. I have one only, and have never seen them anywhere else. Are they easy to get in Canada? I also have a rubber version. See pictures. Is the leather bellows on the bisector pull rod still available N.O.S.?

Here is some pictures of the park brake shield and when I get a chance I will try to get some dimensions written up. Lynn the rubber seal you could get from Brian Asbury and you can email him at: brian.asbury@sympatico.ca with I believe part # TL3615.

one more picture

I drew up the dimensions of the park brake cover so I hope they are legible. It is a very difficult item to try and draw up the measurements on.

Dave

I have talked with Midwest Military and when I get home in May, I am going to send him my original. He will manufacture copies for the market. His repros are quite good, so if you can wait, you can get the next best thing to NOS.

Dave thanks for the measurements i will try and cobble something up, what thickness is the steel it looks circa 16 Gauge but its a guess, it looks to have been made in a press ?

I have not had much time to work on the carrier lately as I have had a lot of regular work with very little to non to work on it but I had a local machinist make up some gas tank filler necks as I have to make up some gas tanks and the bolt with grooved washer for the generator/fan extension (thanks lynn for your help on the dimensions).

It has been some time since my last update but I have been able to put in some time on it this year. This spring I was able to install the new mud guards I had made up as the old ones were removed from the previous owner. It was a lot of work to drill over 200 holes for the rivets and the bins and about half of them were counter sunk.

Some more pictures of the newly installed mud guards. I also recruited the help of my dad to hold the bucking bar.

I also had to fab up some replacement parts for it a well so I had borrowed some of the parts from Doug Lavoie to copy them from.

This last week was a great week as it was very nice weather that we did not have for most of this summer and I was able to do some priming and painting of a lot of the parts including the tub.

dave what did you use to set the rivets...any pics of the tools ?

Some more pictures of the primed parts.

And now for the painting.

A few more pics. The cart worked great for moving the tub around. This next week I would like to get the differential torn down so I can get it ready for painting before the weather gets too cold as well as some of the other parts and pieces.

I used a 8x rivet gun and made up the bucking bar with the rivet sets. If I get a chance I will try and take some pictures of them.

Dave
 

Yes please can we pictures of the tooling (gun dollies bucking bar etc.
Cheers.

i would be interested in buying them if you were willing to sell :-) will save me a lot of time and hassle with a lathe

super dave, I'm also interested in your paint color. What did you use?

Ok Here is what I used for the bucking bar and rivet sets. I purchased the rivet Gun and the Sets off of Ebay (just search for rivet sets generally in the aircraft section) in two different auctions. The rivet sets I purchased came as a bunch of 27 pieces, but I only have been using 5 of them as the others are to small but was cheaper than buying them individually. The bucking bars I made up and added the extra weight to them as my dad was giving me a hand and he did not have the strength to hold the bar tight enough (he is 80 after all). I made one using a offset rivet set as drilling the end of a piece of steel and holding it in with a washer welded on so it would not fall out and the other piece was drilled and then shaped to what I wanted with a round grinding stone with a die grinder.

The paint I had made up locally at Cloverdale paint using there industrial enamel paint using a paint chip card that I got the info from brad mills. I tried to get the same paint (Sherwin Williams) but the only place that could mix it up was in Brampton ON as there was a certain flattening agent used in the mix and they were the only branch in Canada that had it. It was nice of them however to send me a paint chip to use to get it matched locally.

Looks good.I am using a local auto body shop to try get the right color.I'll keep Cloverdale in mind. Thanks.

if you guys could find out who supplied your MOD with paint you could go direct... reason i say is they will also have all the old colours on file... Cromadex here in the UK have all the colours for ww2 period. just dont go 100% matt (like the new vehicles have) as it absorbs water really badly..... eggshell or 10% from my research is the correct sheen ...

Well this week was another good week for getting some more painting done on most of the suspension and differential. It was a low as the last rear swing arm I was dismantling is totally seized on the pin and I can't get it out :mad:. I tried heating it up and putting it in the press with no luck what so ever. I tried hammering it with a large sludge hammer and a punch for a hour and again no luck. after realizing I don't think I will ever get it apart I was lucky to have another rear swing arm that I was able to strip down and remove the pin (Again I had to use the press and heat to get it out, but it did). The bad was that the pin is in very poor shape and I will have to see what I can do to make a new one (unless a nice fellow member out there might have a spare one :)) as the other 3 I removed are in great shape. Also what has other members done about the bushing (for the better lack of word for it) that the end of the spring ball shaped retainer goes into as I have a couple that have nothing at all left of them ???

Some more painting.

And more painting

The suspension swing arm, the bushing and one of the good and poor shape swing arm pin

Dave,I've got a couple cups with no fiber left in them as well.I am going to try a few layers of fiberglass.I don't think there is a lot of movement between the spring end ball and the cup,so it should hold up.