this one
 

this one ?

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...america&page=2

Yes. Did it help?

yes
 

Yes sure did . I've seen similar clamps on motorbike mirrors

The funny thing Mike is that I'd forgotten that I posted the picture until you asked me if it was the one. :o I hope it's not a sign of things to come :doh:

One suggestion I learned this summer was to pour in a measure of fuel stabilizer with each fill-up of an HMV. The stabilizer is sold in Canada to small engine users at the change of seasons. With a dose in the tank, snowblowers, lawn mowers and rototillers should be ready for the next year with fewer fuel problems. The stabilizer will always be in the tank and lines, and as a combustable it can't hurt.

Steel tubing
 

I am planning on making the canvas tilt framework for the C8 pretty soon .

One thing that will hold me up is finding the 1 1/8" diam. tubing - this is a odd size these days , around 28mm .

I will make up the dies for pressing the flat sections of the tubing . Could be a interesting project !

plate
 

These little plates were pinned to the engine cover on chevy cab 11/12 ? vehicles . I cleaned up the text in MS paint

The backing plate the text is printed onto is a cheap alloy material .

Similar plates were also found on the right side of the doghouse on Cab 13 Chevs. I'm not sure if I have a photo but will check.

On a 1942 cab 12 .... C15a.....
 

Chassis weigth is 4960......maximum load 8500....... good load for a 15cwt truck.

Cheers

I took photos as being faster than finding files. The unattached plate is courtesy of Bob Carriere, comes from a cab 11 or 12. The plate on the brown background is facing the driver on a Chev Cab 13 doghouse.

drive
 

Been for a little drive in the C8 up/down the road.

Lack of power was noticed . I discovered , the timing was retarded by quite a lot, so a quick twiddle of the dissy fixed that .

I connected my old vintage ECHLIN vacuum gauge to the wiper motor pipe , it shows 20" of vacuum at idle , with a steady needle on the gauge and a blip down when I rev the engine . So I guess that's a good sign .

I've always had a strange squeaky noise coming from the engine , I thought it was bad generator bearing ? Well turns out it's the fan belt . The modern fan belt V section does not match the old V ways exactly , it rubs on the sides of the V . I think I will try a Industrial B section belt .

I'm not an expert - but I thought V-belts did run on the sides of the V, not on the bottom?

V angle
 

In my case, the V angles of the belt and pullies don't match as I have already stated :teach:

oil feed problem
 

Been doing some more testing. The valve rockers appear to be running dry, I can hear the noise of rattling valve springs . A peek in through the cap in the rocker cover reveals no oil anywhere . There should be some oil in there surely ?

Maybe the oil line coming up through the block to the rocker shafts is blocked ?

I will have to unscrew the pipe at the shafts and see if any oil comes through .

Rub some soap on a squeaky belt and it will stop squeaking. Liquid soap works too.

Squeaky fan belt and oil to the rockers
 

Hi Mike

The noise from the belt has a couple of causes that Ive found:
1. Rust or rust pits on the pulleys
2. Misaligned pulleys, particularly the generator
3. Old belts, they look OK but they get hard
4. Unusual load such as water pump or generator getting hard to turn
5. Belt tension too loose or too tight

If you are ever driving a Chevrolet CMP with the six blade fan and the engine gets quite, pull over you just lost belt.

As to the oil to the rocker assembly remove the cover and run the engine you sold see oil running out every where. Take look at some of the videos on my Web page. Look at the bottom of this page http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/EngineTesting.htm to see example of no oil. If there is no oil getting to the top then check the lifter gallery may be dry or you may find that is where the oil is broken. Take look at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bzq0JV...ature=youtu.be 235 engine but same idea.

Cheers Phil

The rockers don't require a lot of oil so if they are getting any at all it will be enough so long as they are all getting some.
You are probably well aware of it Mike but one of the good things about the old 6 cylinder Chevs is that you can pull out the distributor and run the oil pump with a screwdriver bit in an electric drill for trouble shooting or priming purposes.

David

oil
 

Well the oil is dribbling out of the rockers, so the oil flow is working.

Try this.....
 

Mike if you suspect that maybe part of the overhead assembly is noisy/dry.... while the engine is running dribble extra oil on the rockers..... one piston at a time .... and listen for noise going away......

Have you tried, while runing the engine, removing one spark plug wire at a time to see if there is a noise difference...... if one piston pin or bottom bearing is loose the noise may lessen if the cylinder is not firing.

Good luck

noise
 

Hi Bob

When I had this motor apart I had the valve seats done by a guy in town, he said to me , "the valve guides are rather worn, I can install new guides for $60" . I didn't get the guides done :doh: :doh: :doh: well the noisy valves are now evident , the valve stems wander around in the guides . Yes I was going to pour some oil on the whole rocker assembly while the engine was running and listen .

BTW its the original motor , still standard bore with the original pistons. The motor actually runs smoothly just a little noisy . I am tempted to remove the head and do the valve guides .

Noise is relative with 216
 

Hi Mike

The 216 chev is a relatively noise engine even with all new parts, but they keep running. You really do not hear the difference hydraulic valve lifters made until you listen too the engines side by side with solid lifters.

If your engine is not smoking and runs good then would not worry too much about the valve guides.

Cheers Phil

Mike, back on the first page of your post you had some great pictures of rebuilding your water pump. You replaced the original seals with a modern mechanical seal. I'm just wondering how it all turned out once it had been in use?

Is this the type of seal you used?

https://www.grainger.com/product/PAC...aft-Seal-1R318

Thanks.

no problems
 

Hi Jordan

I have been running the engine regularly, mainly in order to keep it all from gunking up, the modern fuel is crap and it clogs evreything up if you leave it .

The water pump mod has been great , no leaks in over 2 years. Yes those mechanical seals are easy to buy. I used the 5/8" one from memory.

I picked up a couple of the 5/8" mechanical seals. Is the ceramic part supposed to be a loose fit on the shaft? I got 5/8" but it seems loose to me. What did you make the adapter out of to fit the ceramic part into the impeller?

shaft
 

It was a while ago. I think I machined up a sleeve out of stainless steel for the ceramic half to have a snug fit into the impeller . The ceramic half will stay put in the impeller ( not spin ) because it is held in place under tension from the spring and the neoprene surround sleeve will help it to grip . Yes the ceramic ring is a loose fit on the shaft . Look at my post with the pics.