Derek, the C15A and C8 frames are quite different. The 4x4s have a wider frame at the rear and the rear ends are different too.

Derek, I really appreciate the offer to check on the chassis in my behalf. Although there is going to be some major mechanical changes from stock on this truck, they may turn out to be for the better in the end. The truck will still look the same to the casual observer, but with the higher revving engine and rear axle with higher gear ratio, I could actually drive the truck instead of trailering it. :)
Have finally acquired another 13" 8cwt wheel I needed, so now I have four if Wally Wade ever gets around to making 9.00x13" tires. If he doesn't, I have also secured a set of 15" aftermarket wheels that fit the 8cwt bolt pattern. Several interesting tires made in that size.
Either way, the C8 will remain a C8, (with some differences).
Thanks, David

15" aftermarket wheels that fit the 8cwt bolt pattern
 

David:
What are these rims from? Where do I find them?

Thanks,
Jim

Hello Jim,
PM sent.

Slow progress on the C8 in the last few weeks, but squeezing in a few hours here and there.
The rear axle from the late-model Chev Blazer fit like a glove after cutting off the tube shock mounting brackets. Was able to reinstall most of the original C8 rear axle hardware and cast knee-action shock brackets.
This is the set of aftermarket 15" wheels I bought from another MLU member recently. The extra-thick centers are welded into tubeless rims. Have bevelled stud holes on both sides.
These wheels don't appear to be home-made. Have one nice, continuous weld bead on each side. One would have to really know what he was doing to get good penetration on the thick centers without burning through the much thinner rims. Any thoughts to their origin?
Thanks, David

C8 parking brake linkage
 

Hi all,
Does anyone have a photo of what the parking brake linkage is supposed to look like on a Cab 11 C8 from the cables to the lever? Here's what I have now.
Thanks, David

sorry about poor quality couldnt get a decent shot from floor level :doh:
first = where linkages attach
second = linkage between actuator and cable ends
third = front linkage between hand brake lever and actuator

I think this is what you are after

Andrew,
Thank you very much for the photos! Is all your linkages solid rods, or are there cables involved?
Thanks, David

Both the ones i have
All solid adjustable rods from hand brake lever to actuator assembly ,then assembly to point where it attaches to the final flexible handbrake cable near front of the rear springs :cheers:

Andrew,
Thanks again for the good information! Do you think any of this linkage was borrowed from the 1940 civilian units? I have two cast parking brake cable holders, rivetted to the frame close to the front mounts on the rear spring hangers. Not much else looks original. May have to fabricate from those foreward. :bang:
Thanks, David

The emergency brake linkage has this cross shaft mounted on the fuel tank bracket. There's a rod that goes ahead to the lever and the cables go back to the rear brakes. If you want I'll take a few better pix.

Thank you, David!
Looks like someone has gutted my original parking brake linkage for an "improved" version. :rolleyes
All photos very welcome!
Thanks, David

Pulled out my fuel tank brackets that came with the truck today. They had been shortened to mount one tank under the 2B1 bed that was installed when I got it.
Enlarged all of the photos posted,(thanks again), and got my head around the linkage layout.
Was the linkage mountings welded directly to the front fuel tank bracket? Neither of my brackets have any evidence of anything being cut off. The frame doesn't have the mounting holes circled in David's photo. Am I missing something else?
Pulled out a 4-speed synchronized transmission today from a '57 Chev truck being sent to the scrapper. Figured if I was going to 'pimp my ride' with a later model 235 and high speed rear axle, might as well go all the way! :thup2:

From the pictures I cant see if the holes are there or not, possibly a ring in :confused
Here is a few pictures of the front one of mine
1st -overall
2nd -from bottom
3rd -closer look at actuator bracket where it bolts on to fuel tank rail
4th - from top

cable
 

Lucky for me I had the remains of the original cable ..I took it down to Col Bradford , the Chev parts dealer in Cheltenham, he's gone now . He found 2 NOS ones exactly the same ..he said they are from a late 30's chev ute ... dont know what model .

I was looking for the axle hub seals ..he looked up is old FLASEAL book, and I was knocked over ..In the Chev listing in the book was listed : C8 Canadian army truck . FLASEAL were a old Melbourne company , they made oil seals for years . He ended up selling me some NASCO brand seals ..NASCO was the GMH owned parts company .

I found the C8 rear hub seals at AAA vintage auto seals in Rooks road, Mitcham ..they were FLASEAL brand , in old yellow boxes . The king pin kit came from Power Train ( Keith's old workplace , and another business now gone I believe ) ..but moved and run by Keith Downey.

I just found the original boxes for the seals

FLA-SEAL 11183 , on the box it reads : manufactured by A.FLAVELL PTY LTD Melbourne Australia

NASCO 592441 ... this is the C8 front hub seal I think ..

these are old felt and leather seals ... these days ..I would go for modern neoprene seals if available in the correct dimensions.



Mike

Park brake linkage
 

David
The flexible park brake cables could available from oldchevytrucks.com
USA.
Regards
Jim S.

Thanks Andrew for the great photos, and all for the help! The linkage should be fairly straight-foreward to to reproduce from the looks of it.
Thanks again! David

Slight C8 progress, and a question...
 

Hello,
Slow progress being made on the chassis of my C8 as I can find time, but any progress is better than none.
Front springs got sorted out, as they were cobbled together with no two leaves matching on either side except for the primaries. A set of partial rear spring packs from a 1/2 ton Dodge Weapon Carrier fit wonderfully.
Front knee action shocks were frozen solid! An hour or so with some fresh shock oil, and some not-too-gentle persuasion and they were good as new.
A pair of suitabe front axle stops were made from crusty 3/4 ton Dodge WC units with a little work on the bench grinder. The 65 year old rubber was like new just under the surface.
Had a question about the original arrangement of the rear axle stops: Was browsing photos of other C8's and noticed the one in the photo had cast or stamped brackets outboard of the frame for the rear axle stops,(circled in red). These align with the cast pieces on top of the rear springs that look like they should have the rubber stops installed on them also.
My C8 has brackets rivetted under the frame with the rubber stops, but also has holes in the frame for outboard brackets. My existing ones look useless, as the rear suspension would never be able to compress far enough for them to contact the rear axle.
So, my long-winded question is which type of arrangement would be correct for a C8?
Many Thanks, David

David
The correct bump stops at the rear are the ones bolted directly under the chassis as you have shown in the fourth photo
The correct ones for the front ones are as you have shown
The additional bracket on the rear of chassis in the 3rd photo is a ring-in and is only bolted on :nono: ( I know this because that c8 is the c8 i bought first and is sitting in my shed) :D

Thanks a lot Andrew for the information! Looked today at a '41 civilian 1.5 ton Chev I have for parts, and it has the same bump stops mounted under the frame. Still an odd place to position them as the springs would have to almost bend backward for the rear axle housing to contact them.
Didn't realise that was your C8 in the photo I used. How's the restoration coming along?
Thanks again! David

No worries
Restoration hasn't begun on that one -That one is a major restoration project reserved for when i get a lot braver
A lot of rust and mis-matched components :doh:

It would be a massive bump required to hit those stops :D

MISMATCHED COMPONENTS! Why, I've never heard of such a concept!
I can safely say at this point that all the quality parts I have used in the careful restoration of my C8 so far have all come from.....uhh......well....erm, well, they all came from trucks! :doh:
Thanks, David

Dual master cylinder for the C8
 

Started sorting out my non-existant brake system today. My original master cylinder was cracked,(no good even for a core), and all the metal brake lines needed replacing.
Because of this and as a concession to safety, I installed a dual reservoir master cylinder on the C8 today.
A trip to the scrapyard yielded a good choice as it had the brake line outlets exiting the right hand side and a very low filler cap profile. Came from a 1970 Jeep Commando. Very cheap for new ones at the local auto parts store.
Made up a heavy bracket and bolted it up. Re-installed the old 216 motor, installed floor plate and wood strip to check clearances. Not much room to spare, but it fits, it's safer and it's cheap! :thup:
Thanks, David

Dual system
 

Great work David,

I am a firm believer that a dual circuit system is a safer bet. Jeeps of that era are not common here in Australia, but I am of the same mindset: Two circuits are better than one.

You are going to have to look at a servo to assist the braking as I do not think that the jeep system uses the large bore diameter like the C8 originally had.....SO (I think) your pedal pressure will be too high and you will need a right foot on steroids to push the pedal hard enough to work the brakes effectively. [One has a sneaking suspicion this thread will end up immortalized in Google] Perhaps you have re-bored the master cylinder to the larger diameter (I don't know) if so, the problem above vanishes...

Let us know how you go... we're happy to learn from your mistakes :).

You can hide a servo easily enough.

I have actually rebuilt my original master cylinder, but it will be to get me mobile. I want to convert to two circuits.

Ian

Thanks Ian for the reply! Any and all input is gratefully appreciated as I am flying blind on this modification.
The only thing working for me is that the donor Jeep had non-power assisted brakes and 11" drum brakes all around. Didn't check wheel cylinder diameter though.
Add to the mix that the C8 has a late model rear end installed that had power-assisted 11" rear drum brakes, and the front brakes are from a much earlier General Motors product, (that way when I received the truck), I have a real brake salad going! :doh:
Thanks, David

Note;
It also has occurred to me that some people may be put off by taking these great liberties in modifying such a rare truck. My decisions are based on time, money and the mechanical condition of the truck when I received it. If I am offending anyone, please let me know.

Truck Mods..
 

David ..
It is your truck and as such you are really going to enjoy driving it..
You do what you must for safety and ease of driving..
I fully believe that to save it ,modified or not from original is a blessing..
I would only get upset if some one ,knowingly, would try to pass it off as original..then the sparks would fly..other than that ..you have my blessings..the hell with the rest of them..Enjoy..

:drunk::remember :support :note:

Nut and Bolt Nazis
 

Hi Dave,

Do what you have to keep it safe and on the road. I don't really think there are really too many complete originals around. If someone asks me "why didn't you keep it completely original", I reply that once a vehicle has left the factory it is no longer original, besides, you wouldn't have had the pleasure and opportunity to see and "inspect" this vehicle because it would have to remain in the garage for years to track down any exisiting parts that needed replacement.

Cheers from The home of the Ford CMP/Blitz....Windsor Ontario

Mike Timoshyk

42 F15A
42 MB
52 M38

It will be good to see another c8 running around no matter what components gets it there :thup2:
Should get along better than standard which is not a bad thing :cheers:

David and Ian,

I agree that this is a good modification which nobody can easily see but adds to safety. Just a comment about servos - I am a great believer in them having fitted one to my WC53 Dodge Carryall standard master cylinder. The difference was amazing, it actually stops like a normal vehicle!

This modification is bloody dangerous on Jeeps because of the axle twist pulling the steering bell-crank and of course the steering, causing violent swerving in an emergency stop. A safe jeep is one with lousy brakes!

The Jeep one being looked at on this thread is worth trying without a boost servo as combinations of sizes between master and wheel cylinders are a little tricky (but easily worked out by a bit of simple maths before fitting).

Your suggestion about boring the master cylinder(s) larger would make the pedal harder to push, not easier. This is the principle of hydraulic devices such as rams, jacks and brakes - the greater the difference between the surface area of the the pushing ram (master cylinder) and surface area of the lifting ram (wheel cylinders) the easier and more powerful it is.

Of course a master cylinder of 1/4 inch bore would be as light as a feather to lock the brakes but unfortunately the pedal would have to start its travel about your armpit to push enough volume of fluid into the wheel cylinders to move them. You see this effect in normal systems when the brakes are not adjusted up closely and the pedal goes down a long way to operate them.

Lang