G'day Mike,

I guess that it was a White Scout Car diff you used. I remember Albert Bowden doing a couple of conversions using White Scout Car diffs.

:bang:I need one now as I found out the hard way that you have to put oil in the diff if it leaks a bit. I had the White on display in a museum and as there was no oil on the floor when I picked it up I didn't think to check the oil level before driving it 150km. home. I made it home but soon found out a few days later that the pinion bearing had collapsed from lack of oil. Some of the rollers from the bearings had actually gone between the pinion and the diff centre. :bang:

Wanted 1 White Scout Car Diff.

Regards Rick.

Thats Correct Mike
 

I wanted to get the original colour of the truck Mike and that was indeed from samples along the underside of the passenger door. The Master cylinder top access cover and from paint under overlaid coats of paint and from under the mirror arms when I took them off the truck. We had good undisturbed examples.

The finish in my opinion also distorts how the colour looks which is frustrating.

To answer some of your questions and Im stoked youre taking an interest in this project by the way... Ive ducked outside and grabbed some snaps.

It has the inverted U shaped strenthening rib, different to the later Aussie Cabs. It also has the Canadian Floor not the thick Diamond pattern Aussie Floor. No disc, but I know what youre talking about. The light blue back in the photos is the aussie cab. The other one is off mine.

Could not find serial no. on Chassis but thats not to say it isnt there.

I cant remember what the bolts were from the back of the Cab. But I dont remember them being an odd size like whitworth.

Roof Hatch was chopped out & windscreen reversed so dont know how it was attached.

..... but it's enough, Tony, to fairly confidently say that you have one of the wholly imported early (to Australia) batch of cab 13 Ford Canada F15's (my first truck - ARN 55401 - was one of these, too). Therefore, it was assembled and then overpainted with KG3 from a partially knocked down kit which included a 2C1 body and Canadian type spare wheel carrier. These were a stop-gap measure to tide Army over until local manufacture of parts and local assembly of combination Aust/CDN parts into complete trucks geared up. Army wanted 4x4s, but all that was available at that stage from CND was 4x2.

The roof sounds like it has been 'disturbed' so may not be a good indicator, but should still have the standard slide type 1/2 steel rear 'window' rather than the canvas flap and fittings for same (even if removed, it will be obvious which one was fitted by the holes that are left). Rifle buckets should therefore be timber with rounded ends, held in to the floor by two large screws: often the pair of buckets were retained rather than having the passenger one replaced with a felt-lined steel box for the BREN butt, as per later Aust requirements. Roof to cab back bolts would be std UNC (Aust roof held to Aust back with Whitworth bolts: you'd know if this was the case, as you'd have to rat around looking for a b******y spanner that fitted when you pulled it off!)

There will not be a stamped engine number in the position indicated in my last post: that was purely on Australian Ford-assembled vehicles from parts supplied both from local and imported (CDN) manufacture. It also explains why the engine number was stamped on the gearbox, as per CDN practice.

The roof hatch, if you choose to reinstall it, will be of the CDN type, with shaped wooden fillers between the curve of the roof and the flat of the hatch base. It would have been bolted into place. Hatch is fabricated with an integral single piece 'panic handle'. (Aust Ford hatches were pressed steel, two main parts, a different size and welded into the roof, with a handle base welded to the roof forward of the hatch which mounted two std hardware handles, riveted to the base).

There should not be any holes in the left side of the cab for the gallows-type LAA mount (holes in both the cab rear panel and the roof panel). Again, these came later and were not generally retrofitted to these earlier CDN supplied trucks.

If the above applies to your truck, it supports my contention that this is a wholly CDN 4x2. They are a nice truck, and, as Rick C said, a White crown wheel and pinion fitted into the original diff housing does good things for their road speed. :salute:

Best regards

Mike C

I concur
 

Again many thanks Mike...always great to tap into fountains of hard won knowledge.

Mr Keith Webb also assisted me at length to come to this conclusion..

Hopefully be able to post more progress soon..

Happy to help, Tony.

Keefy, of course, is a fountain of hard won CMP knowledge: toooo many years taking pics and making observations. Needless to say, our wives despair when we get together: too many 'nuts and bolts' in the conversation for their liking!! We, on the other hand, have a great time! :thup2:

Mike C

Regarding front springs
 

Diagnosis was correct with a sagging right front spring being the cause of the Chassis lean.

Went out to Hillston on the weekend to consult with the great fountain of Ford knowledge, John Mackie.

We came away with a lot more questions than answers however...it seems that every different model of Ford of the era had a spring of different length and width.

Firstly, here are the specs from the repair workshop manual.

Second photo shows Khaki 2wd spring and Rusty 4wd spring. As you can see from specifications it cant be used as it is not wide enough.

Third photo shows why I cant use passenger side spring either...

Third and Fourth photo confirms widths of springs

Cause of Spring sag
 

Shock absorber connecting rod was missing this side. But after getting a piece of rod threaded it is now back in place.

Just need two front leaf springs - has anyone got any spare???

springs
 

possible to rebuild and set up as you want, old springs may also be different heights. they can soften or adjust to your needs, the c & f 15s always ride a lot softer than 15As.

Tony I found the springs
Max

Ripper
 

Bloody beauty Max - :thup2:

Rick, I saw an ad for a White Scour car diff on a Dutch website the other day, but it's gone now. For reference: seller wanted EUR 150 for it.

H.

Some progress
 

Doesnt look like much - but brother! time just slips away... getting there though.

Sag on the RHF had been remedied :drunk: Definitely was the springs. Replacement springs from Max's pulled apart cleaned then repacked, blasted and painted. Replaced the shackle bushes, old ones badly flogged out.

Below photo's show before and after.

Four rims - removed ancient D&D tyres (I did one, which took me a week) then took the other three to tyre dealer who had them off in half an hour and charged me 20 bucks.

There is no point being a tight arse when doing one of these trucks.

Fitted new tyres - these are the ones Bob Carrier and Harry Moon put me onto from Wallace Wade. Thanks again Jack for organisiing the logistics.

Popped on the rims beautifully!!!

Anyway - some pictures

Just curious
 

Im going to have a look at the manual myself, but one observation Howard and I made today is the track width on the front axle is greater than the rear axle.

Anyone wish to comment??

Fuel tank finally top coated and on.

Spring hangers now sitting correctly - directly up and down - wonder what that'll do to caster angle and the steering of the truck?

Now that the rest of the front suspension is tight - we've just noticed the play in the king pins - they will have to be done.

Anyone had to replace them?

Looking good Tony :cheers:

Tony you are doing a fantastic job. Well done and please post more photos as you go along. :thup2:

Tony, on the fitting of your tyres; My understanding is that you will get a longer life from your tyres, if you swap the two front wheels around, so that the leading part of the cleat (outsides of tyre) hit the ground first.
The way you have then now, is for a "driving" wheel as opposed to a "driven" wheel. How the front tyres of a 4x4 or 6x4, were fitted depended on the expected use. ie.the percentage of road use as opposed to 4 wheel, or 6 wheel drive use.
She looks great!

Thanks
 

To Rob and Cliff - really appreciate the encouragement... :thup:

Lynn - I just didnt want every other person in the land reminding me that my front tyres are on the wrong way if I turn them around everywhere I take the truck :bang: :bang:

What do you know about the track difference? front vs rear axle?

Sorry Tony, just trying to help. Truth be known, in military service she was probably only ever fitted with road running treads on the front.
I don't know anything about the track difference.

Totally OK
 

Dont get me wrong Lynn, appreciate any and all comments and advice. What I know about these trucks is very limited and I am always learning.

I was cracking a cynical joke:blink:

you know...the tyre kickers at events that would point out the directional arrow facing the wrong way.

I have seen the tyres in reverse even in old pictures. I think you are spot on in your assessment. It depended on wether the truck was predominantly on bitumen or dirt work that determined which direction the tread was facing.

It would make for better tread wear if I was to reverse them..

Been a year...
 

Thought Id do a bit of an update...

Front axle has been found to be unserviceable. Removal of King Pins has shown excessive wear and one has actually "picked up" in the axle and stuffed it.

Two things on the upside... the steering box felt notchy but it turns out the notchy feel comes from the king pin bearings.

Managed to get a replacement axle off another chassis. It is the Timken axle and is a big heavy brute of a thing. Inspection of Kingpins, bearings etc shows very little wear.

More
 

Started a bit of a brief inspection of the engine. I have the invaluable assistance of one Mr John Mackie.

Started cleaning the engine up.. removed the sump and removed the yoghurt in the bottom. Came up very nicely.

Cleaned the bores and turned the engine over OK so far.

A lot of carbon and gunk in the top of the engine (no suprises). Refitted head gasket and head. Performed compression test (using thumb gauge) weak in centre two plug holes.

Next step - Need to do much better clean to make sure no carbon preventing exhaust valves shutting properly.

A little more progress
 

Fitted up the Cab frame to create a bit more shed space...Thanks John for all the help.

Have revisited the axle after a very productive conversation with Bruce Peelgrain.

Realised I should have been checking the play in the axle with the colletts tight on the replacement king pins.... did this and discovered what play was left was in the bottom bush in the stub axle and it was insignificant.

Realised if the king pin is stationary in the axle and it is... it cant rub and wont wear (in that area). The wear on the old one was where the stub axle swivels on the king pin.

Make sense?? Thanks Bruce, it made sense to me anyway.

More on Engine
 

Another spare couple of days, another chance to further investigate the engines current condition..

Above pictures do not mean we thought a ritual slow roast might be the way to go.. but what does side valve V8 marinated in 50 year old oil taste like?

Sump and oil pump removed and cleaned again.

Shot of valley shows typical build up of carbon. Fair amount of degreaser used, then pressure washed then sprayed with CRC.

Another test
 

Engine temporarily reassembled to check compression again and to see what oil circulation is like with oil pump.
This engine appears to be a genuine Ford rebuild. Bores have been sleeved and a rough check shows the bores are back to standard (3 & 3/16").

Chucked some fresh oil in and hooked her up to a battery. Oil pressure is very good. Cleaned up nicely but it is astonishing how much crap stays in amoungst colletts, springs, guides, etc.

Unfortunately compression, was not good. Some had zero so I'm wondering what the truck was running like before the cocky put her away. Clearances were zero on some as well.

So we decided to start pulling the valves out for a reface and will probably go with adjustable lifters.

Compression
 

Zero compression would most likely be valves being a bit sticky - Tony Wheeler must be the current champion of that sort of thing.

I see you have an extremely capable and experienced man on the job already. :thup2:

Experience
 

And as you can imagine. We tried quite a number of tricks. None of which made a difference.

Wear on valve faces enough to convince us it needs a bit more work to make it a reliable runner.

Back onto body work
 

Getting some invaluable tutorials on panel beating and welding from a very capable neighbour (Who wishes to remain anonymous). Also, very generously he is letting me have access to his resources.

Two things you'll notice from the photo's - theres no way of knowing if I actually did the welding... although from the mountain of weld I had to grind off you probably would know I did it.

The second thing is.... this is not in Colin Jones league... but it is progress and a heck of a lot of fun.

So we filled a few holes and knocked out some dents.

Bits...
 

Very satisfying to see parts cleaned up looking like new again.

Roof is off an Australian Cab and is in pretty good nick but does need a bit of attention. The other bits were a basic sandblast and paint.

Nice job...but.....
 

Where do the ailerons and tail section fit on a CMP...? must be a Ford

I envy your dry warm weather ...... we are still in snow and mud....frozen hard in the morning and sticky wet mud in late afternoon.

Bob C

Gday Bob
 

Perhaps the aircraft parts are for the truck because, when complete, it will... fly..? :doh:

Weather here is absolutely perfect at the moment. Very light breezes, if at all. Temperatures in the early twenties and dry.

More progress - tiny steps but great fun.

Bottom half of the cab is done all holes plugged, major dings removed without (heaven forbid) hiding spot welds or other standard, factory finish roughness.

Half the door striker was worn away. Quick weld and grind to clean it up