Floor plate is finished . Can someone tell me , if the floor plate in bolted in , will the steering column still be able to be installed after , even with a sealed bearing on the end of the shaft ? Dale




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Floor plate
 

I think it is best to bolt the whole lot in together, just check the height from floor base to steering column box on the hull , so that the top edge of the steering box will fit under, cheers

Floor plate
 

Defintately better to bolt the whole lot together. Getting the castelated nut on the bolt that goes through the front part of the spider that activates the brakes is difficult, but try getting the split pin in when it's all bolted in. I gave up figured gravity would keep the bolt in place. Afterwards I remembered that I bolted it all in together first time but that was 37 years ago!! Your carrier is looking good. Regards, Jim.

Thanks Andrew and Jim , makes sense . One more question, it's about the spline fit between the steering box and column , should it be tight or should it be able to move up and down with ease ? . The complete floor plate and steering column with box is quite heavy and a hand full to move around .. will be interesting to juggle it in place . will make sure the driver's compartment is empty .. Dale

Dale, if it moves up and down easily so that you you can fit it all in, and then it tightens up tight, that is good. Btw, there are marks so that you can get the box and column correctly orientated.

Thanks Boys got it sorted Dale


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Nice Work Looking Good :)

Today I set up my vision shutters lots of work , Thanks to Euan for a lend of his master to make new knobs with the help from Ted and Reg the volunteer machinist from Newman tech college Port Macquarie . Also Matt for the NOS glass , Simon Allen for his very nice glass holders the glass fit was spot on , all the shutters work nice and smoothly . Dale



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Great work Dale

This weekend I'm hoping to get the rest of the hull painted . Restoring a carrier seams to go on forever . I keep putting off the painting because I'm working on small parts , I need to bite the bullet and get it done then I can start to fit it out . Air scoop next . Dale


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This Friday was pretty big day 6 hours spray painting by the time you lightly sand , prep wash , get ready to spray then wait 10 - 15 minutes between coats and clean up . I just need to do engine compartment next .. Dale



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Being 6'4 tall not much fun laying on your back upside down legs sticking through the fire wall , spraying under the nose in the drivers , gunner , compartment , with just two passes of the spray gun and you can't see a thing until the air clears but worth it in the end . Darrin the protec paint that Euan and I are using can go on to glossy some times it is 30 % flatten down as well , like your are doing . I find what I do is to do one tie coat then wait ten , then a good full coat which looks glossy then wait ten this time I turn in the paint volume knob in 1/2 a turn also spray about 1 inch further away from the job and move the gun a bit quicker then the first two coats , this gives a flatter satin look to the paint then it blends into first two layers wet on wet .. Dale


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This is the Jack stand that I'm going to shorten

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Dale your jack bracket must have been made for a different jack. The N.Z. carriers were originally issued with a Ford light truck jack that was not up to the job. Maybe this was the case in Australia as well? Just my thoughts as a few of you have brackets that are too high.
Your carrier is looking great! Well done!

Got the jack holder bracket cut down the other day and re welded . Thanks Darrin for the height , looks excellent . Dale



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Put the nose out in the sun for the afternoon the other day amazing how the colour changes

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I've been playing around with hulls numbers today , they are 3 1/2 inches high . not sure about the font though , do they look Ok ? also was there a designated position on the sides . Dale



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I need 2 or 4 x U24 lining sperical cups for my rear single station as soon as possible if someone can help . Dale

Does anyone know what the U24 cup is made out of ? Dale

the answer is easy Dale
 

ROCKING HORSE SHIT.........


sorry for not being very helpfull

I personally think that it's a graphite impregnated fibre of some sort. When you rub your finger over one, it leaves a residue similar to that of a pencil. Which lead (no pun intended..) me to the graphite idea. We still use graphite bushings today, so could be a viable theory?

Someone else will know for sure.

Great job on the restoration by the way.

Alex

Today I finished off the LHR bogie station some NOS parts , Took 80 tons on the press plus heat to remove pivot pin for the bogie arm after 70 or so years . All's factory fresh now . Tomorrow road wheel to go on then refit back onto carrier , this means all my running gear is spot on ..



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I'm after some photos of the metal conduit layout showing where it comes through the fire wall down past the side of the air scoop over the cross shaft and along the engine rail if someone can help . Dale

Big thanks to Peter for these detail photos and letting me post them here on the MLU might help others as well . Now I can get my head around the layout . The last two photos shows where it changes from 1" to 3/4 " Dale


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Dale,
just be aware that that conduit layout is from a late production BGC, the earlier production (at least VR) BGC conduit is slightly different.

For example:
Rear section of conduit to rear lights does not have the T piece at the end
T piece from dash to centre bulkhead is 3/4" all the way (your pic steps up to 1")
The rear conduit, on some late BGC, goes through a purpose hole in the rear bulkhead and not out the rectangular hole for air flow above diff pinion.

I'm sure there are other differences, but good pics all the same.

Thanks Darrin , didn't think about that ! So early BGC had no 1" at all ? would my number 2225 be around change over point or still in the early range of build dates. Any one else out there with a carrier around my number still with conduit in let me know .. Dale

Dale,
The metgas was 1179 and the SAR is 2554. There were differences between the different manufacturers which is quite noticeable especially when you look at things like the welding and some of the fittings or mountings used. In the "Workshop Repair and Maintenance" manual in the electrical section there is even a note on the wiring diagrams warning that it does not apply "to many of the carriers built by the South Australian Railways" and refers to a supplement which I haven't seen. (Does anyone out there possibly have a copy?).

In the "Carrier M.G. Instruction Book" electrical section it mentions that approximately the first 2,700 carriers produced were wired differently because of different generator set-ups used. Then goes on to say "with the universal conduit lay out now used............" and explains differences with the later production carriers.

Also, does your carrier have a 6 volt battery or like some carrier owners have done, have a 12 volt system. All up, there is quite a bit of variation there. When I get around to doing mine I will probably go for a 12 volt system and as long as everything works, is safe, everything is securely out of the way and it looks tidy I will be happy. (Apologies to the purists). :cheers:
Pete

Taken a while ! well it's just over a year since I started and I finely have the inside of engine compartment painted today , very fiddly job lots of hard to get at places , next conduit then I can fit her out .. Dale




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Here's a brain teaser , Top photo is of friends carrier . Next photo is of my linkages with the holes and uni joint lined up the same as above photo , but the head at gear box end is at the wrong angle , if this is not at the correct angle gear changing won't work ? need help ... Dale


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Dale, It looks like the holes in the uni joint are drilled differently
Maybe drilling two new holes in the rear tube part fixes it.
In the riveted carriers they faffed around with the bolt layout as well.
My guess you have early and late parts mixed. (I don't really know)
I recall they did change, but don't know the details.

same but differant!
 

Dale,
Lynn, is correct again, I also had the same issue and found another joint with the correct drilling to correct mine.

Excellent . Thanks Lynn and Euan . So the best thing to do for me is to drill two new holes in the rear tube part just need to know the correct orientation between the gear stick up front and the gear speed control aft are they in line with each other ? or when controller is hard up against the engine rail aft is the gear shifter up front facing towards the drivers seat as if in 1st or second gear . A photo would be great if some one has their linkage out on the shed floor .. or do I just rotate it 90 % from the old holes and hope the ones in the tube are correct which they should be ? Dale