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Here is the link for Specification O.A. 204, Cars, Light, Reconnaissance (Canadian).
https://heritage.canadiana.ca/view/o...80/752?r=0&s=2 Unfortunately it does not mention the hull colour, other than Hamilton Bridge was to paint the hull in accordance with Specification O.A. 76.(page 19 of the specification) It appears that it will be necessary to track down Specification O.A. 76. |
Wow, some great discussion I got going from simply saying tan.... :teach:
Colin, hopeful you can work your magic and find that specification O.A. 76. I’ve searched but no luck as of yet. |
In post #82, there appears to be bubbling of the paint, is that caused by heat or something else? If heat, that might also explain a colour variation from a pure white.
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Otter Interior Colour
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Here is a wartime era interior photo which may help out when determining the Otter's interior colour.
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Thanks Ed for the wonderful picture. Interesting to note the engine cover is painted in the exterior colour along with the dash.
Grant, the vehicle did have a fire at some point in its life. So I do suspect that there was a colour shift in the white. |
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I would think from Ed’s pics one can definatively assert that the interior colour is white.
The stencilled bin appears to be the same hue as the interior surfaces. Any original AFV bins that I have ever come across have always been painted white. |
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One advantage to that 2" thrower is that it could be used with 2" mortar bombs I believe. |
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What an interesting restoration / vehicle / subject matter . Wonderful ! An eye opener.
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Appears to be the same 2" discharger as used in Shermans.
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Grizzly too.
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Fox
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A small bit of progress was made today on rebuilding the fuse box. Cutting and machining the fibre isolation parts. These isolate the bare power feed hookups.
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Finished up the cover for the fuse box. I also cleaned up all of the original hookup points.
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And all painted and baked to harden up the paint.
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Nice work, Jordan!
David |
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Onto the next part. The first Otters used an open manual throw type switch as a battery disconnect. At a certain point production changed to a standard heavy duty battery disconnect switch made by Delco Remy. It was located just inside the drivers door on the floor. Power from this split off to the starter and engine electrics and also to the fuse box for the wireless and interior lighting.
The switch was pretty rough looking but still quite solid and everything moved on it prior to removal from the Otter. |
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There was a guard that mounted with the switch to protect the wiring cables and the bottom of the switch. Interestingly this was painted in khaki green #3. The two screws that held the switch on would not budge and I ended up using s chisel to knock the heads off. I tried out the old trick of welding a nut onto the remaining studs and they unscrewed just fine.
Lastly some pictures of the entire switch all cleaned up. I’ll be zinc plating it once my supplies arrive later this week. Watching David’s ws52 restoration made me realize I too can replate parts back to NOS condition. |
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Had the day in the shop so I started up the process of trying out nickel plating. It went rather well and I’m quite happy with the results. I’m quite happy to bring these parts back to new looking.
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Fantastic job with the plating, Jordan!
Feels great to see bits come back like that. David |
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More plating being done today. This time with zinc on the battery disconnect switch. I’m quite happy with the results as it is letting me bring these parts back instead of simply replacing them.
The first picture shows how flat the finish is before being buffed with a brass wire wheel. On the switch rebuilding I used brass nuts and washers on the two studs. I also put in new fibre washers as the originals had seen better days. |
You are a metal magician Jordan !
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Nice looking plating again, Jordan.
I have not worked with nickel yet, myself, but am toying with the idea, if I can figure out how a ‘Satin Nickel Finish’ is arrived at. How do the nickel plated parts look, right after the plating process and dried off a bit? David |
Thanks guys, I owe it to David for posting about this with his wireless rebuild.
As for a satin nickel, I don’t think there is much we can do at the home level. A lot will have to do with the surface finish of the base metal. From what I’ve read, some will beadblast or use a scotch bright pad to scuff the metal. Then plate. Right out of the solution it was dead flat. I used a buffing wheel and it polished up. |
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Battery disconnect switch is now finished. Painted and baked in the oven. This should easily give another 80 years of service.
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This afternoon I removed the two forward equipment panels. Underneath the drivers side one I found a hand painted number. I believe this to be a possible hull number. Also interesting was the red rubber pads glued to the backside of each panel.
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The proper NOS fuses arrived in the mail today from England and were installed into the fuse box.
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The originality of this vehicle continues to impress me. I found some more inked stamped part numbers on the panels. Also included is some detail pictures of the wheat lamp charging box
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