Joint
 

Just out of interest, I have not checked my ones, so am taking this off the top of my head, but is there a right way round for this UV, can you be 180 degrees out. Have they manufactured this so you can not get it wrong!

Dale, you are lucky in that you have no gear lever gate, so you can (within reason) have the front /rear orientation where you want it.
(just plot where the holes go along the tube (measure from the end), and drill new holes, at 90 degrees to the old ones) Use a V block to drill the holes, or drill one hole for each bolt, put the U.J. part into the tube, and use the U.J. part as a drilling guide.

Does anyone have one of those parts books (with the missing page 13) that can check if there are more than one option for the various parts.

Just got home from work and marked the centre lines and holes positions then rotated it 90% does this look more like it ? Yes Lynn I'll drill one hole first then it should follow the solid UNI hole as a guide out through the other side


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psacec1ad6.jpg

parts book
 

As Lynn has suggested the parts book make mention of a revised joint on page 38. I also talks about re-drilling the shaft.

Well Euan, it doesn't get any more clear than that! :note: :note:(especially for the northern hemisphere guys :D)

Great book! Any one have a spare for sale?? I could trade a Mortar carrier / 2 pounder wksp manual???

This is my best find so far . NOS in crate Feb 1943 radiator . I had it tested today all's good. The radiator man has been in the game for 30 yrs has never seen a 71 yrs old radiator that good before like new . It's amazing that this stuff is still out there in 2014 . Where they left black or painted KG green No3 . Dale


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps11055e05.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps4b60375c.jpg

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Dale,

Very interesting thread and very interesting find, that radiator!

Could you please be so kind to attach your images to your postings, rather than inserting links?
One day, sooner that later the links wil disappear and, you know:
Attachment 67779

See Posting Images for more information.

Thanks in advance!

Hanno

Hi dale, that's a great find. I've never seen a brand new radiator like that before.
Well done! :)

I've been dreading doing the metal conduit on my carrier for ages now , but finely bit the bullet and borrowed the gear from my older electrician friend today . I have always disliked cutting threads but using this old time gear it was a breeze cuts easily , love the clamp in the vince . so will press on with it this week , I'm using new and old parts . Dale


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps6f3f5496.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps9ea0c1d3.jpg


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Before I did the conduit today , sprayed down the final coat of Kharki Green no 3 on the middle section of the engine bay floor between the engine rails as last week I left this section unpainted so as to have somewhere to stand when painting the engine bay . I now feel like I've turned the corner of the build , so as from now on I can fit things out for good . One thing I did was to change the paint from Protec equipment enamel to Protec 342 spraying enamel khaki green No 3 mixed to 30% satin this paint is UV stabilised plus you can be a mug spray painter put it on wet or dry up and down left and right and it always drys to a stain finish I very happy with it .. Dale


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps521a2fa1.jpg

NOS radiators- colour
 

Dale,
my NOS BGC radiator was painted khaki green.
Green or black....it will look nice either way you decide to go.

Nice pics of your progress.

Thanks Darrin . When I first saw your radiator I thought how good is that ! lucky you . The chance of finding another one as good as yours would be zero in this day and age , but there you go one more , looks like my one is not just for a carrier as Euan pointed out to me the over flow tube does not have the bypass like yours, so Darrin where does your over flow go to in your carrier , I can't find it in the manuals . Dale

radiator overflow tube
 

The BGC overflow tube is a short tube, approx 5" from the filler neck/cap fitting in the top tank.
It then has a union that secures it to the tube that goes to the brass relief valve located in the air scoop, directly behind the drivers seat back.
The overflow tube then has a 90deg bend and proceeds through two holes, 1 in the air scoop and the other in the section of armour above the tracks.

Have attached 2 pics to assist, the pic with the 2 arrows is indicating where the 1/2 saddles go to secure the overflow tube into the air scoop.

I this what I need for a my V8 . Dale


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331021968...643%26_rdc%3D1

I'm moving forward with the conduit layout up front , I think this is the way to go ? If it looks wrong anyone let me know .


PS notice in the last photo the NOS conduit saddle from Keith Webb which is number part stamped Painted in original Kharki green No3 is close the colour of my carrier ..


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I'm after a photo of the conduit layout for the light guard gunners side light which is closer to the centre line where the metal conduit comes through the inside and down to hook up with the cross tube all the photos I have are for the out board light guards ..

wiring conduit
 

Is this what your after?

Close Euan . I just need to see where it goes down the inside and hooks up with the cross tube I got the top bit the same as yours

like this?
 

dale, an assortment of pics of various BGC.
There are 2 different build states, the hole through the armour is centrally located or located inboard.
This also has an effect on the mudguard, light centrally mounted or mounted inboard.

The conduit was individually made/installed by each manufacturer, how they routed the pipe from the light down under the front gun mount was different.
Some have unique bent pipe, others use a number of 90deg elbows.

This pic may shed some more light on it

Excellent Darrin that last photo is the one I was after. funny how things turn out . I have just this morning , before I made this post bent up a peace of pipe just like that in the photo just needed to see if I was correct ? great help . . Dale

Museum restoration!
 

This is a museum restoration using what looks like PVC pipe fittings. Also note the flare box is upside down.
(pic source Darrin.)

Interesting about the PVC pipe fittings Euan . Good pick up , I mist that detail when I checked that carrier out a couple of years ago



Just checked my motor today it's numbered at the front casting C59A what does this mean ?? eg year , horse power, etc . any info would be great . Dale

Photo of the left hand light conduit Thanks for the info and photos Darrin and Euan

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps0d146371.jpg

Couldn't resist spraying on the hull number on the rear end after work today . I used Mike's book on carriers for reference made them 3 1/2 inches high and copied Euan's font as of the E mail he sent me



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looking good!
 

same but different!

I need a photo of a where the conduit over pass, under pass, hooks up near the terminal box Peter's photo is good , but with the rusted parts and bits missing it's hard to know how it all hooks up . Dale

Casting number on engine
 

Hi Dale,

C59A blocks are 1946 to 1948 Mercury engine blocks according to Tex Smith's "The Complete Ford Flathead V8 Manual"

These engines were rated at 100 HP at 3800 RPM with a 239 CID and a compression ratio of 6.8:1 which is slightly higher than the earlier Ford V8 engines hence the 100 HP rating.

As a matter of interest, my engine is a C69A block which makes it a 1946 Ford engine but with virtually the same specs.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers,

To add to this (I hope): I used this site - http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...85to100mid.htm - when I was trying to ID the "F59A" Flathead in the attached picture.

H.

Need help with wiring for my conduit, is it best to buy colored wire as per manual what about sizes is 4 mm PVC OK . I'm not sure to go 12 V or 6 V Any advice would be great need to get this job out of the way to move forward with build .. Dale

Dale,
This company may be able to offer some of the advice that you are seeking;
http://www.vinwire.com.au/index.htm
Cheers
John

Dale, it is important that you decide, or put the wiring in for 6 volt.
It needs to be a heavier cross sectional area for 6 volt than for 12 volt.