Mine had two....
 

Good question David

My cab 11 had adjusting mechanism on both side....... is that original..??.. I really can't tell. The driver's side was bolted directly to the floor pan..... the passenger side had a one inch (2.4mm) board between the seat mechanism and the floor plate.

Will need to check the other cab 12 to see what they have.... if any thing still left.

Early seat frames DID NOT fold at the seat pans..... later on all the seats I have seen have a folding joint...usually rusted tight but easily free with some heat.

Cheers

PS...... just realize that in this picture you can see the roof molding curled up over the back of both seats... will have a better picture tomorrow

I must have 25 seats from the various trucks and I'm pretty sure they all have the adjusters. That's Cab 11, 12, and 13.

As anticipated......
 

We had loosy weather....snow to rain to freezing rain now for a snap freeze to minus 14C

Was on the tractor for 3 hours with the snowblower.....straining all 46 BHP to move that wet stuff before it froze hard again. Came back in totally soaked through the heavy parka to my underwear. Then the power went out for about 2 hours just before supper time.

Raced back to the barn to get a cable to connect the standby generator.... by the time I had everthing ready ....the power came back on.

Hang in there Jacek will do the pictures tomorrow when it is sunny with a -28C windchill.

Cheers

I don't know if this is of any help as the wood on my windscreen has definately seen better days. But, as far as I can see there are only small holes, not the bigger ones as on Jacek's frame. Hopefully Bob can share some pics of his frame.

Regarding the seat adjuster; David D.; I presume it's just a coincidence that the adjuster is missing on both Jaceks and my passenger seats. As David Pope mentions all seats should have the adjuster and as far as I can tell from the manual the idea was one adjuster per seat.....the funny thing however is that January '41 manual mentions two adjusters for the cab, but only one adjuster spring :D . The november '43 C8 manual does mention two springs though!

I was also looking at the wooden seat spacers from my C8 today. I know there was some discussion about the originality of wooden spacers under the seat before, but my spacers even have a GM part number stamped on them!

Alex

OK got some 69 pictures to sort...
 

....some are out of focus, some need resizing, cropping, text and arrows added.

And I just realized I forgot one measurement...... whcih I will get tomorrow.

Pics to follow.

Here goes the first batch for now.
 

As far as I can tell from the rotted wood I have left there were never any holes in the wood prior assembly..... but they do make sense. Predrilling would be strongly advised in hard dry wood.

I have darkened some pictures to better see some of the holes.

More will follow tomorrow.

I must add a word of "Thanks" to Brian Ashbury who sold me the repro wood in the pictures well done. But it has inspired me to do Version 2.01 with small improvements and metal reinforcements. The changes I will make will be documented but they are NOT original. In my mind those improvements would have been initiated by the coach builders IF the model 11 and 12 had stayed inproduction longer.

But then the eventual improvements became cab 13.....

Please feel free to comment or ask questions.

Cheers

One more for now ....
 

This time the front roof of a cab 12 which was easier to access. Hole pattern is the same.

Two sets of holes..... NO screws left at all.

external selvage and corresponding holes in the roof

My standard questions what it is for?
1) both sides of the cab, I suspect it is for upper part of rifle holder
2) only on driver's side , it is not steel , similar to ones on the seat

You are correct - the 3 holes in triangular pattern are for the rifle holder. (3 holes on cab 11 and 12, only 2 holes on cab 13 - the brackets are also different lengths so the hole pattern helps to get the correct bracket for each cab type)
I am not sure about the holes with "lift-the-dot" studs across the cab back, they might be to hang a bag to store the upper curtains and frames for the doors as well as a first aid kit but I am more used to seeing these clips hanging from the horizontal part of the angle instead of on the vertical. As well, I do not remember seeing the "lift-the-dot" studs" used for this. Most trucks I have seen use a bent metal clip hanging from the horizontal face of the angle.

Going back to the barn for more photos...
 

Now my turn for a question.......Jacek....on the picture you just posted of your roof....what is the steel bar across the rear window???? a temporary brace??

Hang in there.

Cheers

It is bracket which was welded to bottom part of rear wall, just where you see rust on rear wall.

Very common rust areas...
 

Hi Jacek

It is very common to find bad rust holes just above the roof angle iron bracket.
I need to cut a 4 inch strip from mine and reweld a new skin. Lots of work to do the butt weld so it will be invisible both from inside and outside but we can do it if we take our time.

The same situation exists at the bottom of the back wall...... I will be removing all the back wall and welding a new skin and will need to fabricate the curved section of the bottom angle iron. Again vewry time consuming but doable.

Just came back in from trying to take more pictures and measurements. My two camera batteries ran out of power within an hour at -20C. so I had to cut my session short.

Last night the -27C was very cold...... my Ford Diesel which I forgot to plug in the block heater would not start and still will not start now. I have a battery charger hooked up to the battery and the block heater plugged in....... once fully charged I will try it again and keep it plugged in when parked overnight.

At least the house is very warm at +24C.

Will download the pictures I have and posted them asap.

Grant is correct on his assumptions that the dot fasterners were probably for holding the curtain bag in place.

Cheers

Finally winter got to us, minus 11 Celsius.
Great exaple of green factory paint. I think I will preserve green part of rear wall from sandblasting for future generations. I removed fire extinguisher holder from rear wall. To my suprise it was originaly painted black!

Correction on screw holes....
 

I can now say that the new wood pattern that I have is a very good copy of the original wood. The screw holes for the flat screws of the top do fit into the holes or dimples in the wood. See attached picture.

My wooden piece will need to routed 1/8 in. to allow the angle iron to sit flush into the wood.

Dead barn pet.....
 

Here is a picture of the flat head screws/bolts that holds the angle iron to the pipe frame of the windshield.

I make it a habit to visit old hardware stores for old style bolts and square nuts.

But.... in enlarging the picture I see one of the brave mosquitoes brought to life with the heat from Lucifer...alas squashed.....

Cheers

Requesting confirmation .....
 

The inner corner angle near the windshield measures 105 degrees......

Can any one confirm if this is correct.

Misc. doors photos....
 

Showing general conditions of all my doors.

Cutting out the bottom and rebuilding with extra reinforcement for known weak areas.

Frame is 14 gauge bent at a steel fabricator and flat plates 16 gauge all satin coat.....once welded they were sandblasted again to obtain even textured surface whcih makes the welds disappear.

corner pipes for curtain....
 

Various pictures of the one good original and the repro.

Handles are NOS from Dirk in Holland

Repro inside handle from Mac Auto also the latch mechanism and the corner pipes came from Mac.

Awesome info on the woodwork Bob! Thanks! I have just sorted the oak panels I have in the garage for this cause, last weekend.


Some pictures from a cab11 C15 here in Holland I promised a few weeks ago.

Even though I think Jacek's truck is more original than this example, I hope these pics still give us some info.

This truck also came from France; it can stil be found in the "CMP for sale in France" section, even though it was still painted tan at the time.

Alex

Some more pictures

Last batch

Measurements of the wood....
 

I did all my measuements in inches and when I converted to metric the numbers do not match.

So will re measure in metric and post the dimensions.

My seat floor adjustment mechanism all all aprat and not yet sand blasted.... in fact I am not sure how they fit any more but will figure it out.

Alex how thick is your wood spacer for the seats...... not sure I will need any with my 6'2" frame... driver's seat will be set for my comfort.

Cheers

Bob, I have two spacers stacked onto eachother. One is 1" thick, the other 1,5". The thicker ones have a part number stamped/painted on one side. I can't find a part number on the thinner ones, allthough they show traces of Khaki Green on the surface normally hidden by the thicker block, so I presume they are original. (allthough I am not sure they were always factory fitted!)

I agree about probably not needing them...I remember in the thread on clearance between steering wheel and knees it was concluded that raising the seat, makes clearance worse. I will still be making a new set of spacers though, just to be able to work out the best option for steering wheel clearance, comfort and view of the road....That is, when I get to that part of the resto:D

Alex

I've been busy last few days fighting idiots who want to put Sherman Firefly into concrete grave in Museum of WWII in Gdansk.
http://www.muzeum1939.pl/en/home-page
Tank doesn't have oryginal engine so they want to put it in building's basement , so it will stay there for ever as no evacuation entrance is planed.

Some smith work by my friend.

wood spacer for the seats in my cab a 1" thick

105 is correct

wood roof frame first try

Thanks....
 

...for confirming the angle.

The wood work looks good.

Bob C