Not a long run....
 

... by all recent accounts from other MLU recovery teams this one was decent at just under 1000km.

So it ran from 8 am to 8 pm...... sat in the drive way overnight for a Monday unloading....

The real reason....
 

.... primary short term reason.... we have others... was to recover a part I desperately needed for my cab 11 project....

The darn coupler between the T case PTO and the winch.....

Grant said its a 1 hour job...
 

....yeah sure......

We read the manual..... easi enough descriptions....remove bolts slide out......

Yeck...... bolts were rust welded...... so Grant went about it delicately...... using fine surgical tools.....

..and when that failed....
 

...Grant went for neuro surgical laser tools.... but the darn grrrrrrriinnnddder would not fit the tight spaces.......

....and we both agreed that torches would damage the rubber pucks..... so we I mean Grant and I persisted until about 5 hours later is came apart....

The results......
 

...a full sets of parts that can be rebuilt..... we managed to save one bolt for matching replacements......

Now to sand blast repaint and rebuilding.....

Failed to mentioned we needed the 20 ton press at full capacity to push out the bolt studs.....

Meanwhile in the other section of the barn...
 

.....Rob was busy rebuilding the bussle for his Hup..... after all what is a HUP without a bussle......

When you consider this thing sits under a truck .... 'scuse me HUP that was abused Rob had a lot of hammering to get it straight and the sheet metal is almost plate at about 1/8 thick....

Here he is intalling the cover......

Finished....
 

Welded and bolted new hinges and new hasp..... quick preventive coat of green to stop rust.....

Back end specialists.....
 

...fitting the bussle on the Hussle... mean HUP.....

This is suppose to be a chain locker...... you have heard of "Gin Palace" I think this is just a big fancy military beer cooler....

...estimated to hold two 24 and ice..... has built in drain holes...

Some pictures of T case installation...
 

Finally got the T case back in the frame......

Heavy sucker that thing....... used the floor jack and a nylon strap held loosely for safety... after all I was the one sittingon the floor crossed legged just in front of the darn thing.

We had difficulting liningup the bolt holes....... my L bracket was toast and Stew donated a perfectly good one that hadnot endure the twisting life of mine.... so things did not line up properly...also the spacer cast iron block was too thick by about 1/8 ... strangely when I tried fittingmy old L bracket it lined up very well... having grown to the new dimensions of my cab 11 over the years.

Anyways we resolved it by grinding 1/16 fron each side of the spacer..... drilling the frame and side plate for 1/2 grtade 8 instead of 7/16...( which I was out of again).....

The came the big bolts... the book makes reference to rubber pucks vibration spacers as well as heavy 1/4 inch washers.... we found an old tire and cut the side wall for 3/16 rubber spacers and bolted everyting together.....

The "hell" bracket.....
 

.... well it has an L shape......


Know the worst part... the bottom rear seal is leaking.....not I have to drain all that precious Sin-Thetic oil out... maybe I should just fill it with Vegemite and molasse....

Next palns are to remove the yoke an seal..... polish yoke to take a speedy sleeve..... and two new seals this time.....

Ron encountered the same problem.... the new seals are 1/4 inch whereas the old was 5/8 and included a felt and leather seal.

I propose to seat the first seal fully to the bottom of the froove and intall the second one backward.......

ain't about to quit yet!!!

What is coming up at the barn....
 

.... well having finished removing the coupler off the cab 12 we trailed the darn thing to the holding compound....a.k.a. the cemetery........ as viewed from tail end charlie on the tractor...

..and still having a few hours before beer time...
 

.... Grant insisted we could drag the sucker back to the barn for a post mortem.....

Worst part... one very flat rear tire.... and the tranny lcoked in gear meant removing the drive shaft....

Doing it in style....
 

...about all the rear 3 point hitch on the old MF can handle..... so rolling to the barn we go......

We intend to strip all good parts....... in particular this truck ..althought the serial tags are missing has evidence of being an early version of the cab 13..... one piece floor.. on remaining tag refers to the MB-C1 and the front axle is an early GM cast type........ unfortunetly the wrecking yard it was recused from had the bad habit of ripping off the cabs with a fork list fork to free up the copper radiators......but the radiator was still in there... radiator not sitting with Jordan Baker....

But it still has a good supply of parts to donate...... replacement engine is a totally siezed earlty 261 with the good XXX848 235 heads which we will inspect to salvage.

Nothing will be wasted..... torches used only to loosen.... grinders to minimize damage...... tagged and stored.

Well Done, Lads
 

Z Clarke here in Halifax.

Looks like you boys were quite busy. Since you are planning on disassembling the red truck, could you please put a "reserved" tag on one horizontal radiator support rod? I plan on using the rod to replace the stripped rod on my HUP chain locker.

Regards from the land of Alexander Keith! Sociable!!!

Re: The "hell" bracket.....
 

Bob, Shouldn't the "motor mount" have rubber gaskets top and bottom?

Re: The "hell" bracket.....
 

Synthetic oil? A good friend of mine is in the business of wrecking highway trucks for salvage. He has found that differentials filled with synthetic oil have a tendency to rust the crown and pinion when left sitting for extended periods. It seems that whatever is not submerged in the oil will rust. He claims that when regular gear oil is in the axle he has pulled them apart after several years and no rust was present.
It seems to me that if a vehicle is not in regular use then synthetic gear oil may not be what to use. I know that friction and heat may be reduced when in operation but the trade off when left sitting for long periods may not be worth the benefit.

Paul

Re: Re: The "hell" bracket.....
 

Assuming you are referring to the darker green filler between frame rail flange and transfer case mounting bracket, the one I removed from the water truck frame certainly didn't, it was rigidly mounted.
The dark green filler has different bolt spacing than either radiator or motor mount. We had to shave it down to fit in place as it was, no rubber would have fit.
The transfer case to bracket and cross member mountings should have either "tire casing" or steel spacers about 3/16" thick depending on early or late production. Bob dutifully sacrificed a virgin (tire casing, not re-capped) to put rubber spacers in place. Most current casings have fewer cord plies than their rating so are squidgier than 1940s casings when cut. (rubber isolator bolts torqued 35 ft-lb, steel 110, also different styles of securing against vibration)
We did look at the HUP to see what it had and noticed that there were full motor mount style isolators at both transfer case to cross member and frame bracket. Another case of HUP is different than other CMPs???? Bob's "near rigid" mount is typical of the field trucks and matches the C15A manuals.

Good point on the oil.....
 

Paul may have a valid point there...... I have never taken an axle apart that the gears were rusted....... that black goo inside seemed to protect everything....even when parked for years...decade???

In fact I have taken apart tranny that had at least 2 litres of water inside....... and was surprised that even the lower end bearings and races were not pitted...... or the cased cracked from repeated years of freezing.....

With the propencity of Sin-Thetic to leak I may very well go back to heavy gear oil....after all I will not be driving it in the winter time.... I back filled a M37 tranny wtih STP in the 70s..... sure quieted the thing down.... however at -35F.... if you let out the clutch the engine stalled and the tranny could not be shifted for quite a while until it warmed up.....

Any recommendation on oil numbers...????

ON THE spacer...... closer examination of other C15a in the cemetery failed to show rubber on the steel spacer of the L bracket.

Bob

Re: Good point on the oil.....
 

Bob
Hypoid 90...
For winter use..mix hypoid 90 with kerosene..80% hypoid 90..20% kerosene...I'm going by memory but it is in the MB-C2..


:drunk: :remember :support

Hi Alex

Are you advocating going back to the old straight number oil rather than a 75-90........ or the wide range synthetics of 75-140.

Actually single weight oil... whether engine or gear si usually available from tractor dealers or from various suppliers for old steam and gas engine collectors.....

Bob

gear oil
 

I can't see any problems using 80W-90 gear oil. The specs Alex Blair refers to are before multigrade oils were available.

Paul

Re: gear oil
 

Paul
Correct me if I'm wrong but multi grade oils contain detergents...
Not a great thing for gear boxes..of any kind in a CMP Vehicle..as they tend to attack certain metals and seals..
Just to finish off that thought the multi-grade oils use something called a VI improver or modifier. These additaves will be used up (break down) and so the oil eventually reverts back to the base oil viscosities. The ISO mono-grades will also sheer down but at a significently lower percentage. So the mono grades will probably have a longer usable life in the drive - as long as they do not get contaminated.
So Bob,to answer your question ,if it were mine I'd be sticking to the old stuff..The multi grades are fine in the new ,higher speed gear boxes where they are changed regularly...The highest speed these old honeys are going to see is when they make the beer run a couple of times a year..maybe..

:remember :support :drunk:

Are you saying.....
 

...the transfer case will run better filled with beer?????

Rick Red or Keith Blond...???

Gear oil
 

Detergent additives are the norm for multi-grade engine oil but I don't believe that 80w-90 gear oil has any detergent. Anti wear, anti foam and corrosion inhibitor but no detergent. Detergents in motor oils generally are used to keep the by- products of combustion in control. I can't see any problems using 80w-90 or 80w-140 in the gear box or axles in older vehicles.

Paul

Aaaarrrgghhhh!!!!!
 

I crapped out....

Came home early today with 2 ...two... brand new seals for the rear output flange of the 2 speed T case.... and I f** mean destroyed both new seals.....

Trying to install the new seals with the T case in the frame and the shaft sticking out is very difficult to get it started evenly....

The rear seals is installed in the bracket that holds the Emergency brake...... that seal groove is in 4 quarters... imagine a large castle nut with four segments and four cutouts.... it seems that I can get it started in the top end of the 4 castled areas but as I get into the full seal resess the skirt of the seal catches on the edge and bends... therby destroying the integrity fo the seals sheet metal skirts..... never was any good at skirts.

so Friday back to the seal store. Since it is easier to install the seals when the E brake bracket is removed from the T case ... I will remove the sucker....lay it flat on the work bench....BUT.....BUT...... before ruining any more of the $10 seals I will use the die grinder and slightly releive the edge and the second edge of the seal opening with a small grinding stone... just the edge.....

This should help me start the seal and get past the second half way groove where the seal groove becomes one. The castled section exist to give clearance to the 4 bolts holding the bracket.

I might even dab everything in bright red silicone gasket material.

Stay tuned..... I ain't giving up yet....

Boob

Having a Blast at the Barn
 

No camera today. Pity. There was a lot of activity today at the Hammond Barn. Grant started to undress the red truck. Any and all useable parts will be stripped off. The truck suffered at the hands of a forklift operator who tried to remove the cab with the tines of the forklift. What a mess! The cab failed to separate, so I guess the operator decided to lift the truck up and dump it aside. While conducting this delicate operation, he bent the drive shafts and did significant damage to other parts. Hence the strip down.

Most of the morning was spent sandblasting various parts, noteably, Bob's transfer case parts, engine splash plates, my radiator fan, and other ancient parts. Being 23oC made the task "under the hood" all that more enjoyable. Bob and I took turns losing weight. After that fun, we headed to Chez Marie for our traditional brunch.

Bob and Grant spent the best part of the afternoon with the plasma cutter trying to detach the very heavy metal bed that was gorilla welded to the frame. The metal will be reused in the future.

I spent time looking for parts which seem to disappear when you need them and show up when you get a replacement... In any case, today was about progress. I'll bring my camera tomorrow.

Forking Lift
 

Not a recommended method for the movement of old CMPs:

Sunday at the Barn
 

We are thinking of opening up our own place of worship in Hammond. Capt Nacho, High Priest of CMP?? The tax write offs would be nice...

A little cooler today at 14oC with a smattering of rain. We decided to work inside, figuratively and literally:

While Bob Got Into His Work
 

Grant did the dishes:

HUP Progress
 

After an early morning clean up, I replaced the gusset plates that I had to remove to straighten up the ends of my frame. You may recall that I had a pin hitch gorilla welded to the end of my HUP frame - it was over stressed and as a result pulled in and bent the end of the frame rails - have a look at the bottom lip of the rail in the photo.

Since we didn't have a forge set up to make new rivets, I used round head hex bolts to replace the rivets. A little Bondo in the holes will make the bolts look like rivets. The nuts on the inside will give away the trick, but c'est la vie!