Exact size of box windows
 

For the historical record here are the exact measurements of the windows on the box . Original inscription found today while replacing a broken one . Also , it was dated 1/44 . Maybe it’s a seven so that would be 7/44 .

Trademark
 

Also found the Autolite trademark on the window ! It mentions it is safety glass like in the cars of the day . Two pieces of glass sandwiched together with a thin layer in between to prevent shards of glass injuring users .

Today finished painting the windows i installed yeaterday . Installed the super structure : Guardrails and antenna protectors . The exterior is almost finished but it is never finished .

Sideview of the super structure .

antenna base
 

Working on the antenna base to be mounted on the roof of the truck. It should go on top in the next few days . I intend to make the Wireless set No 19 operationnal by next week .

The mount seen from the underside .

The connection underneath .Aerial lead C6 .

A sig would never call that a leads, aerial this or that. That thing is a pigtail connector and is the biggest single reason a 19 set will fail to operate correctly.

Hi Bruce . I am no Sigs guy anyway . It’s just what the book says . Pigtail works for me . Could you elaborate on that please ? Why is it a source of failure ? Thanks .

It resembles that curly little thing at the rear end of a pig (I never said signalers were couth; recall that the headphone attachments are called snatch plugs). The failure was either because the pigtail wasn't installed correctly (or forgotten so not installed at all, but that was usually after a night at the pub), or that it was so lightweight it frayed or broke.

So with 2 radio trucks........
 

Are you going to call yourself from the high Power radio and run over to the other truck to answer???? or pull out the beer and snacks and set up a party line..........

Pigtails
 

Yes Bob, the word “party” comes to mind .We will call it a Jimmy party . …. I have corraled a number of injured former Sigs veterans and working these antique trucks / wireless sets will , i hope ,set them on the way to recovery . Small victories build self esteem and help transition to the civilian world . . Bruce , i found the proper terminolgy in the Emers . Connectors , Pigtail is the proper official Canadian designation .

I think you need "Aerial Feeder No.9" rather than "Leads, Aerial, C6" because the C6 is intended to connect the telescopic mast to the roof insulator when the mast is mounted on the vehicle roof. It's far too short to reach from the set to the underside of the aerial base. (They're very similar: a plated brass plug to mimic the base of the bottom 'F' aerial rod, and a length of insulated wire (British ones use P11 cable) to a ring terminal. The plug goes into the aerial base behind the variometer (I'm assuming this is the demountable station on Carrier No.3 or 23) and into the bottom of the aerial base.

The pigtail is intended to be an easily (and cheaply) replaceable link between the aerial connection plate and the aerial socket on the base, to allow for flexing of the rubber base and consequent metal fatigue of the connection - you can replace the pigtail rather than the aerial feeder (likewise if the base is damaged by impact with tree branches or gunfire).

You will need a rubber or cork gasket between the connection plate and the aerial roof mounting to keep rainwater out of the vehicle - the spacer (Aerial Base No.8 Mounting No.3) has been made from many things over the years: plywood with cork gaskets glued on, moulded rubber, and the post-WW2 pair of steel dishes seam-welded together (issued with a pair of rubber gaskets).

The sponge rubber sleeve is to protect the feeder from damage if it rubs against the metal parts of the vehicle. (I bought some circular cross-section rubber insulation and a set of cork-borers for making the central hole.)

Best regards,
Chris.

Further thoughts.

I wrote:

You will need a rubber or cork gasket between the connection plate and the aerial roof mounting to keep rainwater out of the vehicle - the spacer (Aerial Base No.8 Mounting No.3) has been made from many things over the years: plywood with cork gaskets glued on, moulded rubber, and the post-WW2 pair of steel dishes seam-welded together (issued with a pair of rubber gaskets).

I found my scan of the installation guide for the WS19 into 'House Type Body', and this is the section on the aerial feeder:

(22) Connect the terminal end of the Aerial Feeder Assembly No.9 to the terminal on the Aerial Feeder Connector plate. Drop the flexible lead through the hole in the Aerial Feeder Housing, located at the forward end of the vehicle roof in the centre. Place the aerial feeder connector plate over the aerial feeder housing and place the Mounting No.3 over this. Take the Aerial Base No.8 and screw in the connector pigtail No.1, then place this base over the above assembly, tilting slightly so that the free end of the pigtail may be connected to the terminal on the connector plate.

(23) Secure the above assembly to the Aerial Feeder Housing by means of six 1/4"-20 x 1.3/4" hexagon head bolts, nuts and lockwashers.

(Note from me: there must be a blanking plate and gasket supplied fitted to the Aerial Feeder Housing (otherwise the roof would leak), so that's where the extra gasket comes from (rubber, cork, or fibre of some sort). Bolting the assembly down will be a 2-man job because the roof is in the way - I don't know whether it's supposed to be bolt heads on top (probably) or nuts and lockwashers on top, but it's a fiddle either way.)

(24) Plug the flexible lead of the Aerial Feeder Assembly No.9 into the Antenna Rod "F" socket located on the Seating Plate No.4

I think I have all of those parts (Except for the vehicle!) in the collection, so let me know if you need a photograph or measurements and I'll see what I can do.

Best regards,
Chris.

Progress report : Truck is running . Drives at 40 MPH all day long . I can now start it with the cranking handle . All new windows installed . Needs two CMP seat cushions for the operator’s seats ( 2) . Next : Install control panel for the generators .

New windows all around . New copper wire bug screens made and installed on one side . It’s coming along quite well .

Great work.

Thank you Richard from down under ! Found some parts today that should help me finish the job !

Bus bars
 

Here are my newly found bus bars . I personnaly took them out of a power transformer being dismantled for scrap and recycling . The weight is 8 lbs of pure copper . ... They will be incorporated in the generator / battery set up in the radio box . They are resting on a church pew that i salvaged from a church being torn down . Recycling before it was in fashion .

Bus bar for the box . in the Wire-5 electrical setup everything ground or neg is connected to one busbar that in turn is connected to the frame of the truck . Radio , batteries , generators .

Electrical control panel
 

I have started doing the inside of the box .

Another viw . We see the Buss bar installed lower .It’s going to go quickly from here .

One battery connected
 

Coming along just nicely . One battery connected . 110 Volts outlet connected to the Onan power generator . Charging / starting cables to the Onan generator battery installed right up to the generator .

Control panel installed
 

Now for the generator and battery charging control panel box . I should be doing a first Onan generator start in the box for the first time sometime later this week .

Wiring done
 

Good afternoon / evening / night / morning wherever you are . I finished the complete wiring to the generator control panel today . I now need to look at the wiring diagram to see what goes where behind the control panel .Lastly , i had found an original brass warning plate last summer in Alberta . «caution 110 V 60 Hertz AC only «* . Neet original part that sees use / neccesity only in the Onan equiped version of this 1944 box meant to carry the Canadian No 19HP set or the No 52 set.

Battery wiring done
 

Today i did the wiring to the battery boxes and the control panel . 1/2 inch flexible conduits . Everything is painted and good to go on that end . Now i have to con’ect the correct wires to the correct poles behind the control panel ..

Everything goes in the generator compartment . That’s going to be my next challenge : Connect every wire from the generators to the switches on the outside wall of the compartment .If you look to the right of the picture we see these switches . One for 110 V from the Onan and the other two for 12 V 300 watts from the Chorehorses .

One is restoration......
 

....two is obsession........ better slow down......3 radio trucks is production......

Very nice work.

Thank you Bob for the good words . Do you know where there is another one ?? Just kidding . Today i installed those pesky little shelves in the box with the tin’erman hooks for straps. The shelves are so flimsy only very light objects can be stored on them . More pictures to follow tomorrow .

The pesky shelves .I also installed the cypher clerk table i had cut out of a piece of plywood . Coming along .