Thanks Tony. Today it felt good to finally pick up a paint pot again I needed a break from work so gave myself two hours off. :cheers:

The tank is on, only one strap at the moment I have to weld some thread onto the other one. :cheers:

Weld some thread? I thought the strap had a fold-back with a slot that held a 'T' piece, with the thread on the vertical of the 'T'. The fold-back was riveted to the strap.

Or is my memory not that good?

Mike C

spot on
 

Mike you are spot on but whenever I go to undo a rusted tank strap they always shear off just at the end of the thread so the easy fix was to grind a point on the old bolt and graft a new thread on. Fix two is un rivet strap fab up “T” bolt and re-rivet strap.

Excited audience
 

Hey Robert,

Could we have a wider photo of the whole truck with its nice rebuilt fuel tank?

May need a ground strap on the tank
 

Hi Robert

Noticed that you are using what looks to be rubber strips under the straps for rub protection. I did the same thing and one problem I ran in to was inconsistent ground on the tank fuel gauge sender. Some times gauge worked and sometimes not. Turned out it was depending on the fuel line for grounding. Solution was a length of the small woven ground strap material from one of the mounting screws on the gauge sender over to the frame.

Enjoy watching the progress.

Cheers Phil

Thank you for the replies. My computer has been in getting repaired for the last two weeks so I am just catching up. 99 threads have been updated since I last logged on.
To repair the strap I cut thread off a bolt and oxy welded it to the stub with about an inch of no.10 fencing wire. Yes I used rubber strip under the straps and grounding is not a problem as the senders don't work. I will take more pictures tomorrow. :cheers:

Some pictures of recent progress. :cheers:

After nearly four years of spraying with oil and heating occasionally the jack mentioned in post #53 finally came unstuck. I just need to buy new ball bearings for the base and then I can clean and paint it.

Nice carrier jack.

jack brgs
 

Rob is it only the balls that are crook or both cups, as your greg should come across replaced brgs with the correct size, or slightly bigger which are going in the bin, you won,t be using it every day.

Just the balls Bob, there were only six left in it when I got it. Good idea I'll ask Greg next time he phones home. :cheers:

Yet another small step....... :cheers:

My first set back, the starter switch won't work. I'll have to save up for a new one. :(

starter
 

Try Harvey bay, he keeps them and they are reasonable, appear on ebay regularly. if not I might have a spare.

Thanks for the reply Bob, I won't do anything till I've payed this months bills.
I had no luck with bearings from Greg as most of the ones thrown out are roller bearings. I will ask the motor bike mechanics in Wagga rear wheel bearings should be about the right size.

ebay to the rescue
 

Hey mate, here you go, just like bob said.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NORS-DELC...item4d0d9d19b2

You say it does not work, but the question is why?
 

Hi Robert

These switches are about as simple as can be, so my question is before you replace the switch are you sure that starter works. Have you tried touching jumper cable to the contact on the starter to see if it kicks the starter over?

Looking at the under side of the switch how do the contacts look? Are they burned or corroded? When you are looking at the switch besure the little triangle shaped pieces of insulation are still their they keep the switch block from shorting to the switch sides.

I've had a problem getting these switches work because the lever is no longer pushing the button in far enough, cause was wear on the lever and pivot shaft.

As these switches were used on so many vehicles, I'd check the bigger auto parts sources before going to the antique sources. My preference though is to use and old switch as the modern knock offs the bronze has so mutch impurities in them that they don't last as long as a cleaned up 1940s switch.


Cheers Phil

Hi Phil the first test I did was to use jumper leads on the starter. The problem is the contact has burnt back and is not making a solid contact anymore.

Thanks Ryan I'll talk to my bank manager. :bang:

Phil you were right. The switch on ebay was getting out of my present price range so I went and had a good look at the switch. There was no sign of insulation on the sides of the switch so I cut some and refitted the switch. The jumper lead test worked, I refitted the starter and it fired the engine straight up. Thank you Phil, Bob and Ryan. :cheers:

Glad it worked
 

Hi

Glad to hear that solved the problem, I bought a new one through the local auto parts place a few years ago, when I open the box in the store to see if it looked right it didn't have the side plate insulators. Lesson was to take a careful look at all boxes to see if they look like they have been opened.

Parts place ordered another and it came through with the insulators. One of the benefits of dealing with one primary parts place is that when something is not correct I've got an better than even chance of having it made right.

Cheers Phil

Technical ????
 

Hi Phil

Knowing that the number one problem with these switches to be arcing erosion of the copper contact ......Do you think it is possible to rebuild the contact area using "silver" solder...... and would it last...? How about brazing with Oxy/Acet rebuilding with brass...?

On farm tractors using similar delco unit it is common to take the switch apart and rotate the head of the contact bolt 180 degrees to get more years of service...... not sure if the big contact bolt on a chev switch can be rotated ....

I cringe when I see the asking price of such common items on EBay when most farm tractor supply store can sell them retail for half the price.

Bob C

Finally the jack is back together and has a full travel. Next it needs cleaning and painting, hopefully this weekend. :cheers:

The jack is finally painted. It is a rough job just to preserve it for now. When it is dry it can be lost in a corner until I have the time and materials to make a handle. :cheers:

Help please
 

Can anyone post a picture of the right crank handle for this jack? all help greatly appreciated.

correct handle
 

Hi Robert,
The correct handle has a folding handle and a telescopic square drive.

Thank you Euan the pictures are much appreciated. I will have a go at making one at some stage when I hunt up some suitable metal.

Our club has decided to use windscreen banners when displaying our vehicles. I had to modify mine to fit the Blitz.

I had a little bit of sand so I cleaned up part of the spare wheel carrier. A bit of cut and paste will be required. Some new holes will need drilling as none of the existing ones match the captive nuts in the tool box.
I am booked in with the windscreen doctor on the 30th to have the rear window measured, I am using my Christmas bonus from Betty to have it fitted. :cheers: