My, that all looks so nice ...

Your Turn
 

Mark,

It will look a lot better fixed to the body...Speaking of nice looking, how about some shots of your HUP - with particular emphasis on the motor mount set up??

Re: Fun With 45 HUPs
 

Well, there's a Jan. '45 one for sale in Austria . . . send me some money and I'll pick it up for you ;)

http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/at...=&postid=74876

Re: Fun With 45 HUPs
 

What date is your parts book for your HUP I was just checking mine for something else and remember the date June 1945 I posted some pages to my web site in the past http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/HUPdetailphotos.html look about half way down the page for the link. I'll scan in the appropriate pages as soon as I get a new main computer. (Found out today that the lighting strike on my main computer was terminal, computer shop had 5 other Dell computers all damaged in the same lighting storm last week, all are uneconomical to repair.)

Cheers

The Sunday News
 

First a recap - Saturday Bob and Grant recovered, cleaned, primed and painted a few dozen fiddly bits. Pretty soon there won't be any iron oxide remaining at the barn...time for another trip.

Sunday was a nice relaxing barn day. I arrived at lunch time and off to Chez Marie we went. This time Bob's better three-quarters came with us to add dignity to what normally descends into a vulgar brawl (with the cranky waitress). But we got news! Ms Cranky is leaving the food service industry to pursue a new career at a local box store. She was in a great mood this afternoon. We ate our food carefully.

Back at the barn, we worked on the HUP's electrical system in prep for the BB2 start up date. Some time was spent thinking about fixing the brake system, but that soon passed. Bob took off to do some gardening and I decided to clean up my HUP's brush guard. The first photo is a montage of the stripping process. The rust welding was significant, but Release All and a heavy setting maul did the trick. The bolts were another story and had to be cut off.

The Treatment
 

After some time with a flap grinder and wire wheel, the parts were cleaned with degreaser. Following that, a good coat of phosphoric acid was sprayed on to treat the remaining rusty pits. Before too long, my leave pass expired and I had to hightail it home. Photos of the finished product will be posted next week.

Re: While Browsing the Collection...
 

Rob,
Ref your photo dated July 7 of Ford with stamped ID below both of the headlamps. The Canadian Register website claims that the dual marked Fords were 1942 production.
See: http://www.canadianregister.co.uk/chevy_or_ford.html

Grant

Ford Data
 

Thanks, Grant. I'll get Gunner to confirm the build date on the twice stamped Ford. In the meanwhile, if you happen to visit the S&P Museum again, I remind you that the security systems (hornet nests) are armed and dangerous - Oh yeah, you know that well.

Mike! Is your european Ford a '42??

F60S Tipper
 

Hi Rob:

The data plate is definitely Sep 1945. We may have to get the number experts to compare the data plate data to the frame stampings. I'll take photos.

My LAAT has "Ford" stamped under both headlights and is to the best of my knowledge based on a conversation with the late Peter Ford, a 1943.

Cheers! Mike

Saturday Night (Eaten) Alive
 

Grant and I spent some time at the Barn Saturday night preparing for BB2. We now have enough wood to burn to keep us toasty warm for at least three nights. After off-loading the wood, and feeding the local air force, we did some clean up at the Barn. Various barrels got cleaned out and waste products were organized for eventual disposal. After sweeping out the "stables", we had some fun organizing parts and working on CMP windscreens.

I had a broken screw in one of my L brackets that holds the top rail to the window frame. We disassembled the top rail and took the offending bracket to the vice. A quick pass with a thin cutting blade made a nice slot in the broken screw. The screw was then backed out and replaced. The slot left in the bracket is of no real consequence as the bracket is out of sight and the four screws ensure the frame is securely attached.

Here is a shot of one finished frame and one that is awaiting screws:

Windows
 

A shot of the top rail screw config:

Re: The Sunday News
 

Here the box full of CMP treasures prepped by Bob and Grant (I foresee a business opportunity...):

Re: While Browsing the Collection...
 

Rob, you seem to imply the left hand stamping seem unusual to you. Is that right?
Ford CMP trucks first had no stampings (at least up till early 1943), then had "FORD" stampings under both headlights, ending with "FORD CANADA" under both headlights as per your pictures. This was a 1945 feature, possibly introduced a little earlier in 1944.

Hope this helps,
Hanno

Re: Re: While Browsing the Collection...
 

Hanno, From small bits of data, to opinions to facts...one can not put a value on the benefits derived from this forum.

I find myself being pulled towards the dark side (Ford) - they are almost as interesting as the venerable Chev!

The Dark Side
 

Luke...er Rob, feel the power of the FORDs you know you cannot resist it....come to the dark side you will realize its worth...

Mike

42 F15A
42 MB
52 M38

Re: The Dark Side
 

Here we go yet again... :yappy: :yappy: :yappy:

dark side
 

rob...use the force....followed by, resistance is futile, we (ford lovers), are here to assimulate you into our collective...and remember, the bowtie is the universal symbol of a gentleman...lol :smoker:

UnaFORDable
 

OK! Let's reel this in. We have both the Star Wars Force and the Borg working overtime to drag this "gentleman" over to the dark side. Not to worry Chev lovers! I have found the means to resist: unemployment! (see my tag line).

.....unemployment.....
 

..... you will now have time to work on the HUP at least 12 hours a day ......7 days a week......

Phil is trying out retirement to see if it fits...... sounds very interesting after my 47 years..... maybe I should be thinking about it...

Boob
Ps...but will stay pure with my Bow tie!!!!!!

Re: .....unemployment.....
 

Sure. Are the pigs flying yet? I got a "honeydo" list as long as my leg and a trip down east to complete first! Welcome back Bob!

Ford-Chev-Dodge-Toyota
 

Who gives a sh*t as long as its green (or DTB) and was made/used by Canadians! :rolleyes

:cheers: :drunk:

Mike:remember :support

Re: Ford-Chev-Dodge-Toyota
 

Now, Mike, settle down you lover of all things CMP. Those of us with less than 20 vehicles can be picky with a fine degree of discrimination. It's our flyshit and our pepper!

For me, it is a matter of Scope management, that is keeping things manageable on the budget I (she) has allocated. Truth be known, I too share your sentiments for all things CMP.

See you at BB2 (also?).

Re: Re: Ford-Chev-Dodge-Toyota
 

Eminently true, Rob, but notice how he slyly slid the obscenity "Toyota" into his header... could this be the beginning of the end for Our Mike? :eek:

Naw! Just rubbin my nose in it...
 

Mike's way of drawing attention to my "fleet" of Toyotas...If today's GM didn't stand for guaranteed maintenance, (we have already dissected Ford) I'd have one or two parked in my drive today...

Be kind to Toyota/Honda/Mazda - a lot of their DNA comes from CMP scrap!

Re: Naw! Just rubbin my nose in it...
 

Well, yes.... no doubt dragged to the smelter with their little wheels kicking and screaming, "NO! NO! You can't do this to me! I don' WANNA become a Toyota!"... :(

Makes me cry to even think about it... :whinge

:salute:

Calling all Collectors!
 

Buy a CMP now! Preserve our past and help prevent soggy Sunrays! I just can't stand to see a CMP part being recycled or a distraught Geoff...

Whats the stuff???
 

Bob,

what is the stuff between your windscreen frame and the glass? Did you use a sealant or is that just a length of rubber between the glass and the frame?

The windows I have use like a very thin fabric piece and what appears to be rubber there.

I suggest that anyone changing glass takes their time. I drilled out the screws and then spread the frame apart. I then used a diamond chisel to collapse the thread and remove remnants from the frame. All slow going as we are dealing with glass. 10,000 little squares is not a good look.

Make sure you protect the glass from swarf and other abrasives using a nice cotton sheet. Incidentally this is a donor frame and glass not my truck's.

Ian

Re: Whats the stuff???
 

Ian,

Here are my responses to your questions:

What is the stuff between your windscreen frame and the glass? I could not identify the material as it was so deteriorated.

Did you use a sealant or is that just a length of rubber between the glass and the frame? A fellow restorer who owns an auto glass shop provided me with a vinyl type tape that I used as inner frame "liner". I would recommend using a sealant on the edges of the glass. Over the past three years my replacement glass has delaminated at the edges. The Hammond Barn solution is to use "Krazy Glue" along the edges and then a silicone sealant on the bottom frame rail. I am always interested in other solutions to the "biodegradeable" window frame problem.

I suggest that anyone changing glass takes their time. Sage advice. None of my windows had clear or unbroken glasses, so they have been replaced. Working with glass demands that you take your time and use the requisite safety PPE - especially safety goggles.

I found that the lower frame has a good measure of flexiblity and the glass can be worked out by gently forcing the uprights apart with a carefully arranged bar clamp set up.

Good luck with the fensters.

General comment on windshield glass
 

Having replaced all the glass in 3 CMPs I'll try to add to the confusion:
First all of the original glass I’ve found was ¼ inch laminated safety glass.
Though I did find ordinary plate glass had been used as a replacement on one.
Laminated glass now comes in different thickness so be sure the glass shop uses the correct thickness.
Now as to the frame gasket material, originally they used glass tape which is very similar to friction tape though thicker and heavier.
If properly installed the glass will be a very tight fit into the channel.
I had one glass shop try to use silicon sealant, probably would have sealed well but it did not center the windshield between the frame edge and the glass cracked, probably on a sharp point of the channel.
Make sure that your frame has been well sanded and is as free of rust as possible.
Paint the frame and let it dry several days before taking it to the glass shop.
I have gone both ways just buying the glass cut, or having the glass installed by the glass shop. The first method is good if you have an original window for them to duplicate. But check that it is actually the same size, neither to smaller or larger.
You may discover that the frame has bulged this is most likely from water getting trapped in the frame and freezing. So be sure that the drain holes at the lower corners are open to allow any water that gets in at the top.

Re: General comment on windshield glass
 

Phil,

Good to hear from you. I hope your visitors passed on our regards to you...

Thanks for the window info. My glass is indeed thinner than the original glass. The tape I used to line the glass is quite thick but I still get some "slop" that I hope to take up with more tape and sealant. I also drilled additional small holes in the horizontal channel to ensure that moisture has a way out.

Do you have an update on Weare?