Whats the latest thoughts about Blue Glass or perspex , for head lights , what have others done ? any do's and don't . Dale



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Hi Dale,

Nice looking headlights. I notice that you've got incandescent bulbs. Using those means heat and heat will cause perspex lenses to soften, melt, distort and ultimately they will begin to burn. If you want to use those bulbs then you will need to get glass cut. I have made enquiries in this respect and have been quoted $70 per lens for blue glass.

Alternative 1..... You can get perspex blue lenses cut, as I have done. The cost of these lenses was about $20 for the pair. I also bought led bulbs for the original BA15 style sockets. The advantage of led is that they draw almost no power, and produce almost no heat compared to incandescent bulbs. The cost for a pair of led bulbs was a princely $3.49 on ebay, with postage.

Alternative 2...... You can keep the incandescent bulbs, ditch getting glass cut and get 2 lenses cut from polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is used as headlight lenses in all modern cars, is durable and heat resistant. The only problem you will have is getting it in clear blue....its only made in clear or smoke. You can paint the inside of the lens with a clear blue type paint, but it will also need to be heat resistant. I've been quoted between $50 to $70 per lens for polycarbonate.

There will always be purists who insist on everything original, however at the end of the day its your carrier and up to you how far you want to go or how deep your pockets are....

The choice is yours.

Thanks Matt . I took your advice they cut out easy . . Dale


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All done . Very happy with how they turned out . Also I added the outer water proof seal . Dale



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Guys, Just to quickly jump back to the headlight lenses just to say what I done. I went to a leadlight place and took in my original lens and managed to match the colour with some glass he had and got them cut for 10 bucks each which I thought was not bad at all. Which is better than the 70 bucks each like Matt mentioned he got quoted so I suggest to anybody that wants some headlight glass cut to drop by the local leadlight place to see if they can do it.

What's the correct period / scale type water temp sender to suit my motor where to buy and brand ? . did carrier engines have one or two ? . Dale

Dale have a look on line. There should really be two because you are running two separate 4 cylinder engines, as far as the water in the block is concerned, It only mixes in the radiator.
On your v8 there are two senders in series. Roughly speaking, one is just a switch, the other is temp sensitive, if that makes sense (one has a single terminal, the other a double terminal.

Hi D, here is some info.

Dale, you will need to add a resistor to your temp gauge and your oil pressure gauge. to convert your gauges to 12 volt. I bought mine from Macsauto.
A separate one for each. You don't have a fuel gauge, and the ammeter doesn't need one.

I have a weeping oil leak at the bottom of my dip stick boss is this a flat head thing ? or is it worth replacing before i put motor in or can it be sealed up from the out side ? Dale

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G'day Dale,

Unsure if it's a V8 Flathead thing but I would be trying to fix it before the engine go's in, just my two bobs worth mate. :thup2:


Regards
Ian

Dale, I think they are riveted on with a gasket. Having seen pictures of your efforts, I think you will be disappointed if you leave it. I think some of the U.S. parts places do a rivet kit or repair kit.

Just testing how to post photos again , as I forgot how to do it . Back in action now ... Here is a photo of my NOS radiator being test fitted yesterday . motor is going in tomorrow ..

Good Day today motor is in !! Just need to do some small adjustment . Then pull out one more time , to elongate the rear engine mount .Dale

Looking real nice Dale. How did you get on with the dip stick bracket on the sump?
Why is it required to slot the (rear) mount holes?

Hi Lynn . Yes I fixed the dip stick boss the only leak is the normal flat head Drip ! The rear engine mount is not an Original , with the front engine mounts lined up and the rear floor mount bolted in , and the eight point coupling lined up with an 8 mm gap and the bolt being able to be pushed in by hand the rear engine bracket holes are half a hole out , so i thought it was best to adjust this and not touch the original bits . Dale

I have lined up the motor on all the mounts but have an 8mm - 10mm gap between the 8 point coupling what am i missing ? is there any adjustment on the drive shafts ? Dale



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The idea with the gap is to have the Bushes centralised (ish) to the drive plate so the load is taken near enough to the centre of the Bushes. As long as you've got an even gap all the way around between the two plates, and the bushes and bolts push in easily, you should be good to go.

Thanks Andrew and Alex . I didn't release that the rubber was pull through the larger hole on the gear box flange , all make sense now ! the drive and weight is on the out side of the round rubber bush , cool . Dale

More work on the motor today . I have all the linkages working e.g. . gear change, choke, throttle , air cleaner tubes are hooked up , radiator hoses .

Drivers compartment is done as well . It's a nice feeling to be coming to the end ! Nearly 3 yrs now . Thanks to Colin for giving me a good base to start with my problem is I only have one day off a week other things to do along the way .

Fantastic job, Dale. It must be a great feeling to be so close to the end!!

I notice you haven't installed the oil cooler?

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It looks awesome Dale!

Great Job ,Just a technical issue , are the choke and throttle cables should be under side of the air cleaners by any chance, as when the engine cover comes down and seals with the felt on top of the radiator, I think the cables imprint themselves into the felt, Cheers Andrew.

Thanks Andrew. Yes after I posted the photos I thought it looked wrong will change to the underside . Dale

I test fitted the engine cover today , looks real cool .Dale

Not much room inside with the engine cover on ! I can see way you need to have everything working well before the cover goes on otherwise it's a pain to work on the motor

Dale,

Looking good mate and almost complete, well done.

Chris

I started on the tracks today . lots of elbow grease on the wire brush , replaced three links . I now have 174 links each side 98% of the track links , look like they have not been on a carrier as where the sprocket would run , still has the casting lungs on them . They should match up well with my NOS sprockets . some of the links have some pitting after 70 years of sitting around . otherwise they look OK . Dale

Pulled brake drums off yesterday . The left stem and spring Assy frozen solid , so I could not adjust the brakes have fixed that now , can some one show me a close up photo of the small pin that goes through the splined washer into the inside large nut that holds the drums and bearings onto the shaft my one was broken so not sure what the head looks like ? I can make new ones on my lathe , also the inside seal is no good . Is there a modern seal to suit if so does any one have the part number , I'm going to order some new bearing tomorrow ..