I'll have to dig out my plans and email them off to you. Someone else was asking a while ago I think.

Well today among many other things I did manage to change 1 light bulb. The little bulb that is inside the switch box on the dash panel. I ended up breaking the original but saved the base. Thankfully CND Tire still sells the same kind in 6v (surprise). Magicaly it lights up then shuts off once the carrier is running, hence letting me know that the battery is charging.

Usually for exhaust systems with cast iron manifolds , the rule is that the first piece of the exhaust and the first silencer should be made out of steel , rest can be stainless steel. this is because stainless steel can`t get rid of the heat quick enough. if you just drive off and on trailer no problem , but if you drive for a long wile your manifold will get red hot and crack in the end.

Well I've never heard of that ? Complete exhaust systems for all makes of vehicles are quite common place. I've run my BSA WM20 motorcycle for years with a stainless system, and not much gets hotter than that.
Ron

I don`t think it was stainless steel , it will be a steel exhaust wich is chromed , and that counts for a steel exhaust . and motorbikes dont have a cast manifold. Sports cars have a welded made up manifold , so that is another story

OK Maurice. I'm happy to have a friendly debate on the subject some more. I purchased a complete stainless system for my Dad's Jag. XJ6 some years ago and shipped it to him in Zimbabwe! The company even told me the grade of stainless, but I've forgotten now. I would have thought that the exhaust port area of a cast iron side valve engine to be just as hot as any manifold. More research needed I feel. Regards Ron

You guys may have better luck discussing the types of metal used in exhaust systems in the restoration forum.


Today I finished repainting one of the sides and applying the "Hells Angles" logo again. I also installed my original WS19 cover for the Mk1 Carriers. I have to say its pretty cool seeing it all come together over the past year. Another weekend and its been 5yrs that I have had it.

Got my camera back this past weekend. Here are some follow up pictures to what I have been working on the past few months.

Enjoy

And some more pics

carrier pics
 

Hi Jordan,

The carrier looks great. It was great meeting you in Windsor. BTW it was the coil that was shot....She is back on the road and sharing my time with my M38 which I brought out of hibernation.

Cheers from the home of the Ford CMP

Mike Timoshyk

Mike, great to meet you also. Glad I could lend some assitance with your CMP.

Well I made of some floor boards the other day. No idea if this is what they originaly looked like but they work for me.

:thup2:Lots of excitment to tell. First up I got two of the three brackets for the track adjusting bar that goes on the front of the hull. And secondly, my engine decided to call it quits while at an event. This was during the same weekend my Jeep also decided to stop working. :bang: :doh:

Anyway it spurred me on to get crakin on having a new flathead built for the carrier. Im rather excited as it will mean getting rid of the non original style engine for a correct one. So thankfuly my back hull plate unbolts. So far I have taken that off,the complete engine cover and one lower rail. The rad is out, Im now rebuilding the mounts. One thing I discovered when taking one of the heads off, was that I could lift the engine about 3/4". I guess the 67yrs old rubber mounts had called it quits. When I took the head off, I found the 3rd cylinder had coolant in it. Ive also decided to have the generator looked at and possibly overhauled, along with installing the oil cooler. I think its going to be a busy winter. :thup2:

One interesting thing I found, I think my intake manifold is an army one. Going by the part number cast into the underside. Am I right in assuming this?

Do you have a link to this video of the King riding in the carrier?

Thank you was great to see the vid.... Harold

So its been a very long time since my last post. Not a whole lot has gone on from my end of things. I do have a flathead being built by another MLU'er and I can't wait to get it back.

But I did get some new front ammo bins. These are from Midwest Military. They are top notch. So far I only had time to prime them but with the great weather coming this way I feel some green may just get on them.

Better pictures of the new front ammo bins from MidWest Military. They even come with the 1/4" plate that goes under them.

Does anyone have the dimensions for the holes on the L.S. bin for the grenade bin to bolt on. I'd like to get that all put together over the wknd.

That gray switch box......
 

Hi Jordan

Is that the switch box that fits inside the canvas cover I am working on....?

Boob

Yes it is. So the little sleave with the string is used to tighten up around the headset leads/connectors.

Jordan/Bob

I'm very interested in one of the waterproof covers for the switchbox if you are able to produce an extra.

Jordan: I think that we may have been bidding against each other if the original that you acquired was one that came out of England a couple of months ago.

Cheers,
Colin

A bit more progress is made. Since the engine is out I took the opportunity to completly repaint the floor and get it all cleaned up to as new looking as possible. Ive also refinished the oil cooler and made up the lines for it. Im also working on putting both fuel tanks back in with all the proper fasteners and such in place.

I also got this piece made up. Now I just have to get my hands on the actual track adjusting bar. I cut out the side pieces with a hand held jig saw and some metal blades. It did a great job cutting the out.

So more stuff that I have been working on.

Finaly got my last grenade ready bin attached to the r.s. ammo bin. Im sure my elbow will like it once I start driving again. Ive also got a full compliment of #36 grenades. These are high quality repros a friend makes out of resin. They unscrew just like the originals and feature a springed plunger and repro dets.

Further more I finised the felt cutting with the pads for the fuel tanks. I ended up using some brass tube to cut the holes in the felt to clear the nuts.

Thankfully Im handy with a sewing machine so i spent this afternoon making up this part. Its the canvas Bren "tools" bag that is riveted to the inside of the stowage locker lid. Not really sure what goes in it but its still a neat piece to have.

The second picture is the original one I copied it from.

Also finished making this bracket. Its the rear Boys Butt support that bolts to the rear plate on the inside L.S. compartment. Just have to add a rubber strap to it and its all done.

Excelent stuff Jordan, seeing your carrier reminds me how much of mine there is left to do..to get it back to how it was that is.

keep up the good work buddy

Just got these picked up today from the canvas guy. Overall they are not bad. They did a few things differently then the originals but Im still happy about them.

No more having to sit just on plywood with my carrier now. :D

Hi Jordan, Nice job on the seats, I have just had four rear seat pads made, I have looked at all sorts of materials to match original carrier seat coverings, I have some original NOS rear seat backs and borrowed some original unworn bases to copy.

From what I have looked out hear in the uk to best match a carrier seat cover is to get hold of some green wooven canvas material used in welding screens or tilt covers, make your seat cover with it then paint it in marine gloss green matched to an original carrier cover, this is a flexible paint that takes a week to dry. What i then hope is in time the paint will then craze and crack as seen on original covers.

One quick question on carrier engines, were does the earth cable connect to the engine block, on mine its on the cylinder head but I suspect it should be connected elseware.

Kevin -engine earth strap
 

Did they originally have one? A radio kitted carrier would have, I imagine.
The two rods going from the bell housing to the rear hull plate should do it. The battery is grounded to the left hand crosstube roller bracket, through one of its mounting bolts to the hull side plate.
I'd put it from one of the starter mounting bolts, direct back to where the ground stap is fixed, or if you want it to look tidier, to the inside of the bed rail. The most direct route back to the battery, with a good heavy cross section, would be most desireable, particularly on 6 volt.

On the seats. I guess the canvas eventually sucked up the water, so they were painted to try to seal them? whats your thoughts.
the original seat back covers I have, are a shiney coat on thin canvas.

By the way Jordan, while we are hijacking your thread, You doin' great! I hope mine one day, my carrier will be as good as yours.

I had my seats done in marine grade vinyl. I'd be a bit wary of how well painted canvas would hold up for seats. This stuff I got is UV safe and is temp safe to some negative #. (way colder then I'll ever be sitting on it)

When my engine was fitted I never had a grounding strap on the engine. I ran 6 volts and it kicked over really fast. Im not sure I will put one on as what Lynn stated, those two rods would work fine. Unless someone finds info as to one being done.