Next faze was to put the cut outs in the bottom of the cabinet where the cables pass through, rivet the hinges on in readiness for the doors (yet to make) and weld on the brackets that hold the panel (which I've now fitted up some more with my new BA screws). I also drilled and tapped the panel brackets for 2BA screws as not knowing what they where originally, I just did it with a size that I have in stock. I'm in need of some period looking cable if anyone has some they'd like to sell. Ron

Ron, those two screws about the middle of the sides are to hold the panel in place and they're about 3/8". The four screws below the bottom gauge are to hold the capacitors in place.
Looking good.

3/8"? Blimey those are some big screws! Or is it just the heads that are large?
I've noted that I need extra holes under the bottom gauge, but can only see two?.......Plus the further eight for the cable clamps. Ron

They likely used 3/8" so there would be more contact area on the plastic panel. Under the gauge the top two are about 2" apart and the bottom two are about 1" apart. In the picture the bottom two are right close to the latch.

Yep! I see them now. Cheers Ron

Another session today and I've made the doors from old off cuts of sheet metal I've had stacked up for years. I decided not to try and make ultimate replication of the doors! In part because of the guesswork involved, but also because of my limited metalwork skills! My top clip works fine with the addition of a piece of 4mm bar welded to the top of the door for it to clip over.......(I need to find another one for the bottom). I also replaced my panel fixing screws with some much larger ones. I ran out of 3/16" dome head rivets, and will need to buy some more to finish the hinges. Ron

I made and welded on the earthing bracket today, and did a trial fit of the empty cabinet to the headboard. All looks OK to me. A bit of a struggle on my own, and Private Spoons didn't help at all! In fact he just got in the bloody way!!

Ron

This picture shows the three fixings for the cabinet and the earth strip. It's very clear that the top two fixings are inside the cabinet and therefore the instrument panel must be removed before the cabinet can be screwed up. Ron

I made cable clamps with some 10mm ally bar. I clamped two pieces together and drilled through the joint with a 3/8" drill bit (two holes next to each other and filed together on the centre two) Then drilled the screw holes and drilled and tapped my panel for 5BA screws. Ron

Ron, that's coming along nicely. I got my decal paper but have been too busy farming to do anything with it yet.
I finally have an 11 set. It came from Australia by sea mail. It took 3 months to get here. The new remote unit A came with it.

Well done on getting your 11 set. Mine is also Australian and probably came from the same source. I sprayed the front of mine with that silicon spray that is used on car plastic bumpers and dashboards. Makes it look almost new again.
If you can manage an extra set of decals? I'd be happy to pay for them.

Ron

Done! It looks good enough to me until a real one comes along...... sometime never! I'm able to relax now as I head off for Normandy on Monday for eight days with one of my DR bikes. Ron

Nice work, Ron!

David

It looks great! It's amazing what we can come up with when we get several heads pondering the same subject!
I got my other parcel of aerial stuff from the UK after a couple of months run-around with Parcels2Go.
I laid it all out to see what I have. I'm still short the ball peen hammer and 4 aerial rods. The horizontal aerial is 250 ft Number 1 but I'm not sure if that's the right one.
The second picture shows the difference between the British and Canadian guy rope hardware.
I guess I still need the aerial unit C.

You will never find the hammer in an aerial kit! They were always removed (either before disposal or by the surplus dealers who could sell them separately). The same goes for the small hammer in the Canadian "Bags, Aerial Gear" - the lump hammer tends to survive because not many people want a 4.1/2 lb. hammer, but the 8.0z ones are attractive items.

All you need is a modern 8oz. ball-peen hammer with a plain wooden haft. You might find an original with broad arrow marked head, but the haft will probably need to be replaced by now.

The 250-ft aerial is part of the "general purpose" range: 70/90/110/150/185/250 foot wire aerials that would cover 2 - 8 MHz.

Chris.

kit
 

I bought 2 of these kits back in 1983 from tooles disposals Wodonga.

Are they post ww2 production ? Or are the canvas bags post war replacements ?

Hi Ron , next to your new switch board there is a interior light type Wilmot Breeden type , any idea where i still can find two of them for my wireless C4?

Guy

Sorry I missed your post Guy. I think I found that lamp on a stall at W&P some years ago. I'll email you a close up picture which you can use to advertise for them. Ron

11 set front panel retaining clips
 

Gents, does anyone have a spare front panel retaining clip complete for an Aussi 11 set to sell or trade?. (Canadian or Brit ones might be the same).

Thanks.

Different
 

The British sliding lock is different . The British set has a aluminium case and is generally neater . If you have one of those Aust. sliding locks to copy , its fairly easy to make on a small lathe .

Thanks for advice mike, I need to make the sliding lock but the catch is completely missing from the other, just easier if someone has one un thee spares box

Kevin.

catch
 

Kevin

Not sure what you mean with "catch" . Is it the cracked housing with the keyhole shape pictured that the pin or lock slides along ? The British set uses a pressed out housing, rather than that horrible Aust. contraption that you need to find , with the three screws . Mike

Yes, that's the bit I need.

Kevin.

Aerial Unit C
 

Well, I finally got an aerial unit off eBay. It's a NOS one that was never issued.

You should of said as I was bidding on it too!, lol, it's located in Norwich 25 miles from Me!, fair price too.

I recently got the Australian coupling unit for an 11 set, completely different liking thing to the Brit and canada versions.

Kevin.

I guess it was just you and me bidding on it then Kevin. The last few I've seen sell weren't all there and sold for almost double what this NOS one sold for. The guy had a pretty vague description of the item so nobody took notice I guess.

There was one at a local auction that went for £450 plus auction fees. A friend at the auction saw I was interested and said he had one available for £120 which I bought. I still looking for another tray for an 11 set if you know of one available.

Kevin.

I came across this pic of a remote unit A with operating instructions on a plate under the lid. I've never seen this before.

plate
 

|David , the instruction plate is usually there under the lid . Maybe that unit you have is a different brand than others . I think these units were made by PMG and STC here in Aust. Different makers used different method of making the instruction plate .

I checked again and one of mine does have the instruction plate.