Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: General comment on windshield glass
 

Here are the dimensions on the gas tank protection tank on June 45 HUP

Thanks Phil
 

Magic! Now a dumb question - how are they attached?

Re: Thanks Phil
 

Sorry forgot that detail 1/4x20 counter sunk

Long Time, No Posts...
 

BB2 is now history. After such a successful event Bob, Grant and I are looking forward to getting back into the barn routine. This Saturday, Bob and Grant spent some time around the barn looking for things to do - they can fill in the blanks on this day. On Sunday, we got back into the swing of things by restoring some CMP parts. See the attached photograph.

In the afternoon, Bob and I trimmed the "garden" next to the barn. Eventually, it will be a parking spot for some of our vehicle frames/hulks/future projects. I didn't take any photos of the work as it would have upset the tree-huggers too much (lawrd knows we don't have enough trees in Canada...).

Can you identify the piece that Bob is weld-repairing, and the cause of the damage?

I know....I know....I know....
 

.....'tis the foofoo plate that protects the thing-amaw-jig....and got pitted by dripping urine......!!!!


do I get the prize...?


Now my turn to ask a question...... on the throttle linkage.... at the bellcrank behind the exhaust pipe...... the MB - C2 shows two (2) springs attached to the bottom of th ebell crank stretched forward to keep the linkage tight....... Now brace yourself......

"what are the darn two springs attached to at the front of the engine....? and the book does not say....?



Question for Stew...... can you show us a picture of the "hay-dap-ture" you made to use the original (h)aircleaner on your new "B" carburator...... pleeze..?


As you can tell the party is over til next year and we are now getting doen and greasy again.....!!! Ain't it nice.

BooB

spring attachment
 

Doner has nose cone off so got this picture by torch light I hope it is clear enough Robert. Pin has two locating grooves machiened into it and is fitted to a raised rib on block just ahead of exhaust pipe.

Re: I know....I know....I know....
 

Not if you've taken to peeing on your truck parts, you don't!! :p

Just a dumb question because I don't have a Chev of ANY vintage, but shouldn't you be working out of an MB-C1? If you gots one, check the springy thingamajiggers in that...?

:sheep:

MB-C1
 

dosn't show the springs at all and MB-C2 only shows the back of them. :giveup

Picture+1000 words....
 

Thanks for the quick photo.....

.... my first reaction was..... that engine sure could us a good steaming....... My problem is complicated by the fact that I amtrying to fit the 216 linkage onto my 1959 Chev 261.....

On the 216 the bellcrank pin that bolts into the block is directly behind the exhaust pipe......... and there are no other cast and tapped bosses on the block forward of the bellcrank shaft.

It would seem that on the 216 provision was made to have facilities for attaching the springs a few inches forward. Will try to include a picture tonite of my set up.

Geoff.....re: the manuals..... the MB-C2 seems to have a few more pictures and details than the MB -C1....... but in all honesty I refer to a ford manual and a Chev 1958 shop manual than any other old pcitures I have taken over the years including picutres of some of the spare engines sitting behind Jeff/Dan's garage for comparaison......

From what I have seen of the later Chev 6 the springs for the throttle linkage seem to have migrated to the back and bottom of the engine......it seems GM had installed a small tab on one of the oil pan bolts that held on end of a spring attached to the vertical carburator rod..... same purpose different set up.

Amazing how you can spend 3 hours trying to fit the linkage and 30 minutes to install a fender..... but the pleasure is in the hunt, seeking, finding and making it work.

Now to find some springs that are soft enough, long enough to take up all the slack in the linkage...... I may built a small bracket that attaches under the last bolt of the generator bracket to attach the springs......

Thanks for your help..

Bob

Re: I know....I know....I know....
 

Yep. The Boobie prize. Here is another shot of the plate(s) - one left and one right...what are they?

Too easy now
 

I won't lower myself to enter the contest now that you've given it away so completely. I will probably see you at the barn later this week to join the work party.

Mystery parts look familiar
 

Hey Rob - I'm going to cheat, cause I took the same plates and angle bars off my '45 HUP - they are off the front ends running boards, with one on the battery carrier side (RH), where they attach to the frame and front fenders. (Geez, I hope I can remember how to put them back on). The pitting, is, of course, from the battery acid.

Unique Feature
 

We have a winner! The plates bolt onto the frame and the attached piece of "angle iron" acts as one of three running board supports for either side of the HUP. Are they unique to HUPs? Are they on the 43 model HUP?

Yes indeed, battery acid can do a number on the tray and surrounding metal. My battery tray bottom was quite eaten away.

Here is a shot of my HUP prior to the removal of the plates:

Not just 43 HUP,
 

but also 43 C8AX too! So we see a fair few down under.

The seem too heavy for the job, compared with the pressed top hat section of the fuel tank / step brackets.

I think ours have rotted from the manure that catches in the join!

Rob

How Good are Your Eyes?
 

The attached photo shows the back door of my HUP when I bought her. The sign (as far as I know) says "Right Hand Drive, Hand Signals" TWICE! (I think...).

The stencilled sign looks to be original as it had predominantly green paint. The larger freehand painted sign has tinges of red paint.

Anyone out there have similar examples of stencilled/freehand warning signs??

Re: Unique Feature Spilled Coffee
 

I don't know about that cause? I always put my coffee mug down on the floor between the driver’s seat and the door when I drive any of my CMPs. Of course the first big bump and the coffee is spilled on the floor and dribbles out on to the running board or leaks out through the seams in the floor to land in this area of corrosion. I think the cause is the corrosive nature of coffee or tea. My drivers side running board always has a coffee stain on it.

But actual you are correct about being the corrosion under the battery box on both of my Pattern 13s with the battery on the drivers step the box and bracket had/have corrosion on the Pattern 12 with the battery mounted in the center between the seats the bottom of the box, the support brackets and floor plate underneath had corrosion damage.

Running Boards
 

I spent most of the morning reassembling the running boards. The biggest challenge was reinserting bolts between the flanges of the crossmember and the frame rails. A length of wire with a bolt tied on worked well in the small openings.

Here are some shots of the driver side board reconstruction.


http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ide/plate1.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ide/plate2.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ide/plate3.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ide/plate4.jpg


http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...0Side/bbox.jpg

I left the pitting as it exists but coated it with a spray on asphalt under coating. The only small part that shows is where the angle iron meets the vertical plate, and that part is now "under" coated.

The battery box does not have its holes drilled and is missing its two posts (which I have) and its cover - which I don't have. I'll be checking Phil Waterman's website for dimensions.

By the way - Way to go Team Canada! 3-0 the final score. Canada leads two games to nil over the Russian Juniors.

Pax Side Shots
 

The passenger side presented a unique challenge - the HUP is parked near a wall and all of the fasteners required my being under the vehicle. Could have used my partners in crime, but they are gainfully employed...

The "Jerry Can" holder slid in and bolted up with no problems - which means that I must have screwed it up - the HUP Curse states that everything must be done more than twice...

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/100_2497.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/100_2499.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/100_2501.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/100_2502.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/100_2503.jpg

Experiment
 

With all this time on my hands, I decided to fab up a filter bracket for my "hidden" oil filters (thanks, Bob). I used a good stiff piece of sheet metal I found in the barn (16 ga) and just pounded the hell out of it until it fit inside the frame rail. After drilling out the holes (should have done that first...) I used one of the Jerry Can Holder fasteners to secure the assembly to the frame.

Now all I have to do is see how much the exhaust system will impact the location of the filters...see photo four above.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...terbracket.jpg

Source of rust!
 

Hi Rob:

Don't forget to pull the new bracket off, sandblast it and multi coat it in paint as it will be come a source of rust as it is right now.

Very innovative... modern convenience, well hidden! :D

Lookin' really good. Doesn't look a thing like the beast I'm describing in a certain document I should be able to print and sign tomorrow.

Cheers big ears! :cheers:

Mike

Re: Source of rust!
 

Hi Mike,

Hard at 'er at the concrete palace, eh? Bob and Grant will have their chuckles when they see the "Rube Goldberg" design...I'll be painting it up sometime in the near future. Right now, it is only a mock up and the location has yet to be "approved" by the exhaust system...

I am very much looking forward to your "epic" or would that be an "opus".

Chairs!

Well, that is a nice sequence of pictures, Rob - I will refer to them when I come to put mine back together.

I didn't know you were lacking the gas-tank kick plates. Luckily I have both of mine - I see Phil gave you measurements.

This week's progress out at Worby was chiefly involved with trying out a new pressure sandblaster outside the shop (bit of a learning curve here, but I got a few parts cleaned up, 100+ lbs of land and some leftover aluminum oxide later. Still beats the dinky little cabinet, and less hassle and cost than toting stuff to and from the commercial sandblaster.

My other extravagance was buying a frame jack to shift the left front frame horn (previously damaged) about a quarter of an inch to get the bolt holes of a replacement shell section support channel to line up. A bit of finicking and the job was done. About 15-20 mins work @ $145.00.

Another nifty tool in use is one of those transmission lift cradles that mounts on the floor jack. Have the transfer case on it now, and it should make reinstalling the lump a little less hairy than removing it was.

I need to have some machine shop work done on brake drums, involving shifting left and right hand studs,drilling and tapping holes for the front sling hub fixings, and what the heck, having the new grease seals pressed in at the same time.

Speaking of seals, I'm still looking for the rear inner hub seal, but CR/SKF part number 25455 looks promising. Following up on that one tomorrow.

Thursday at the Barn
 

With the family out visiting friends in Petawawa, I took advantage of the opportunity to join Bob at the Barn for some reorganization and a little work on the HUP.

Bob sorted out the nuts and bolts - a huge task as we had lots of bags, boxes and cans with various bits and pieces laying about. Here is the man hard at it:

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ke/bobnuts.jpg

While Bob fiddled with his nuts, I drilled holes in my new battery box and mounted it on the running board:

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...atboxfixed.jpg

At the end of the day, we had a visitor from the Iltis Club. John Granger delivered a CMP replacement window (by the way, don't use a hammer to remove frame top rails - secure the piece and use a punch and deadblow mallet...). Many thanks John for the excellent service!

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...arke/johng.jpg

What's the French word for Seal?
 

Mark,

Glad to hear you are making progress. I'll look up the seal number we are using here at the barn. I hope to mate the body to the frame this coming month and then start on the cosmetic reconstruction of the "van" interior. By the way, I still have your divider frame...when can we expect a visit?

Seals...???
 

Hi Mark

Which seal are you talking about...???

Got a picture...??? I am thinking that the seal on the HUP....here we go again..... is different than the cab 13.....

Is the seal in question that funny felt seal held in between two sections of sheet metal??

....... let us know what you find as we could not source the felt seal in Ottawa.....

Bob

Re: Thursday at the Barn
 

I know that expression! It's "where the hell did I put down my beer?!"... :doh:

Tsk-tsk, Big Ears - don't be disgusting! This is a family forum. But while you're at it, was that before or after he found his beer? Idle minds want to know... :D :D

Re: Re: Thursday at the Barn
 

Bob lose a beer? No way! He can sniff out a beer faster than a fat kid can track down a candy bar.

Get your mind out of the sewer and back up to the gutter. Freud would have a field day with this bunch!

Re: Re: Re: Thursday at the Barn
 

Can't help it... I was spawned there! And anyway, Freud gave up on me a long time ago, so you're stuck with me! :D :p

What Are You Going To Do?
 

Coe Hill was not in the plans of SHMBO. Unfortunately, none of the Hammond Trio made it out to Coe Hill for the show. Instead, we managed to get some barn time between family (Bob/Rob) and work (Grant) obligations.

Bob spent some time figuring out his exhaust pipe layout (praying it fit...):

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2516.jpg

Grant did some fabrication magic - fabbing up a radiator mount cross rod. First shot is of the raw material - a metal tube:

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2514.jpg

The tube after Grant's magic act:

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2513.jpg

The new cross pipe prior to welding (an after shot will be posted later):

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2518.jpg

A photo of Bob's original rad mount:

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2517.jpg

I spent the morning refurbishing seat mounting hardware (cleverly disquised as a wind chime).

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/100_2515.jpg

Radiator support frame
 

After welding it looked like this. I held one of the radiators up to it to see how things would look, well holy.... , it wasn't even close. It seems the PO had two radiators, one with a slightly dented top tank and correct side mountings on the radiator, the other with a better looking top tank and completely incorrect side mounts (hole spacing wrong and parallel to the front face rather than angled). Well of course I had to look at the incorrect one first and scare myself that the afternoon's work had been for nothing. Much less worried once I looked at the other radiator. Thankfully I haven't had either one tested/rebuilt yet. I think that the incorrect one might be a civilian pattern radiator designed for a vertical grille rather than the CMP slope. There is still some work to be done on the support to straighten out modifications made by the PO and fill a pair of surplus holes. I have to keep some work for later, nothing there that a bit of heat and leverage can't fix.