FGT No9 Aust restoration
 

I had some time today to begin the task of removing the rusty panels on the recovered body.
It is not as simple as you may think. When these bodies were assembled some 68 years ago at the Ford factory in Geelong they were diligent in their panel attachment. Wherever they could tack weld, they did. As you can see from the images the skeleton of the upper body is angle iron whilst the lower sub-frame is channel.
The panels are 16 gauge sheet steel and in addition to being tacked every four inches or so are seam welded where they join.
I know two others have completed the task of removing the panels from either a No8 or 9 FGT so I would be interested to hear your approach. I have found the best way is to cut along the lines of the frame using a thin cutting wheel on a small angle grinder, remove the large panel then (because there is a lot of rust) chisel along the lines where possible before using the 9" grinder to remove what's left of the weld as well as rust. The plan once it is stripped will be to have the frame sandblasted before reskinning.
Fortunately we have almost all of the engineering drawings for this body which show where every attachment goes.
So if anyone can suggest a better way, please yell out.
Here are a few images:

The first panel removed.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252420001

Despite the panel rust the frame seems to be usable.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252450001

Looking down on the right side. The bracket you can see is for the spare wheel which was carried internally on the No9 which was not equipped with runflat tyres.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252500001

One of the seam welds.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252510001

Tools.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252530001

Note the D^D on the chisel.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252550001

Cheap Chinese 9" grinder.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12946252580001

Thin cutting disks
 

Keith give up on that chinese rubbish and buy some German pferd wheels.
We have done tests here running all brands of cutting disks side by side.
Pferd lasted twice as long cut faster and cooler. Check Epay for some cheap prices.
For spot welds I use an air chisel its really quick but wear stout gloves the pain from sharp edges is amazing.
Make sure your tetanous shots are up to date.
Graeme

Air chisel
 

Good thinking Graeme, It would be a good investment I think.

Also agree re the crappy Chinese stuff - that one came with the crappy grinder.

Air chisel
 

Keith,
If you want to borrow my air chisel for a trial your welcome but you need a decent compressor to drive it without a lot of delays.
Graeme

Keith,

"You're not letting any grass grow over it", as we say in Dutch. My goodness, the body is still on the trailer, you are still covered in Border Raid dust, and you've started hacking away already. Well done!

Hanno

As Hanno said, can't wait to get it off the trailer so you must be keen :cool:

Re the comments on cheap grinders. Surprisingly my crappy chinese grinder long outlasted my much more expensive german Bosch one. I was doing a lot of rotary wire brushing on the Weasel hull, and the wire brush is never perfectly balanced. Owing to the constant vibration, the bearings in the angle casing got hot and subsequently the top bushing loosened and started to spin, which melted the plastic even more, which led to more vibration, and so on to the point it was shaking violently. :(:
I shimmed the bearing but it wasn't long before it happened again. The chinese one has an alloy gearbox that doesn't choose to melt after a bit of punishment.

I would never ever again buy an angle grinder that has a plastic/GRP gearbox casing, no matter how reputable the brand. I hope someone is reminded of this next time they are looking buy a new one.

Steve.

Messy job.....
 

Hi Keith

Nasty job you got there...... no easy way to do it....... we removed skins from the door frames and it was a mess...... because of the samll job and wanting to save the door frame as much as possible we used old screwdrivers and the oxy torch....... welds were about every 5 to 6 inches and every now and then two one inch apart...... we would pry the skin off so far..... heat up the sheet metal to stretch it some more...... tna with a very sharp small chisel cut the welds... some we had to drill the centre of the weld.....

No short cut known......

In some cases we could see the spot weld better by rubbing with a sanding block... the spotwelds then become more visible..... there is a small spot weld drill bit tool available..... but they do not last long and would never survive the repeat use you would make on that large body.

What is the Dodge engine for....ballast????

Keep us up to date of your progress.

Bob C

Advice
 

Many thanks for the advice so far, seems very sensible and helpful.
So far the small Bosch angle grinder seems to be holding up OK as is the larger Ozito brand one.
I bought a cheap air chisel which seems to be working OK to open up once the panels are removed but a hand chisel is faster to cut the dags of weld remaining down to grinding size.

There are no spot welds in this body, just tacks about an inch long, and often the seam welds have penetrated beyond the outer skin. I'm finding the best way is to cut along the lines then chisel and grind once the skin has been removed. I've had some kind offers of help though so if the rain holds off there may be some serious progress tomorrow. :D

Theory
 

My guess is smuggling in a Dodge weapons carrier for the next project. Small bits at a time to remain undetected by Belinda. :nono:

Man of great vision - fan of your work Keefy :thup2: :thup2:

Sorry to disappoint
 

This engine came from a Dodge Weapons Carrier owner because it doesn't fit. It is for Euan's father in law Iain's stock car.

But it does make good ballast. Heavy as pure lead.

G'day Keith

For all us CMP 'L' platers, can you post up a photo of what the finished restoration may look like.

Vehicle as new
 

Here's a picture from my site:

http://www.imagecontrol.com.au/oldcm...dnew/new9b.jpg

More than one way to skin a Fat
 

Hi Keith, been there done that.
A good chisel and a beefy grinder is the way to go. Take your time and only take off what you need to, chemicals will clean the rust out under the tinware. Be careful around the wheel arches (those thick steel angles) and try to save the rear hatches and tin at the rear end. Nice save.
Any body number? Should be stamped between the ladder lugs at the rear.

If anyone knows where there is another No9 body please let me know ?
Ford preferably but would be happy with any parts or fittings:salute:

Progress today
 

Thanks to the kind assistance of Cameron Reed there has been substantial progress, with most of the sheet metal now removed.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0978/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0976/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0980/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0977/web.jpg

Unloading Trailer
 

Hi all - this has to be the slowest and hardest way I have ever seen to unload a trailer. Haven't you got a crane?

:teach: Bob

Unloading
 

I like to savour it one little piece at a time.

Actually the reason is it's going to the sandblasters once everything is cut off.

Makes sense not to double handle. :cool:

Sandblasting
 

Hi Keefy - hope you have plenty of cash. Over here they charge between $150-$200/hour for sandblasting. We are in the process of building a small shed so I can do my own. I already have the pot plus a cabinet blaster.

Bob

What a blast
 

See you in 8 hours and 39 minutes (according to Google Maps). Do you give discounts for MLU members? :D

Can I have it back looking like this please?

http://www.imagecontrol.com.au/oldcm...dnew/new9a.jpg

Re. Sandblasting
 

:no4: Bob :no4:

Help
 

G'day there Keith,
Glad to have been of some assistance, amazing that what looks to be a bit of a basket case with a few hours work just removing the worst of it, how you can see it transform very quickly into something that is very salvageable albeit with a little work. A little panelbeating here and there combined with a bit of blasting will see it ready to start the reskinning (FUN) part, any other help is only a phone call away :cheers: :thup:

Chopping
 

Hi Cameron
Your MLU name was very appropriate indeed, and I made a lot more progress today with the help of my original CMP collaborator, Tony Wheeler.
The crew seat or what was left of it is out and there are a few more bits to chop and grind before it is ready for the sandblasting.

etch
 

Keith

Try using ... hi-chem etch prime .... its made in Hallam .... its available everywhere . its a single pack epoxy etch .. works well I have found on anything. Its in the green tin


http://www.hichem.com.au/hicheminfo/...INDUSTETCH.pdf


Mike

Keith,

One question, is Belinda away on holidays or is it a daytime job only whilst she's at work?

Kathy

Holidays
 

Actually we're both on holidays this week. I've had a special dispensation to do this as I want to get it finished and off the trailer as it's needed for other things... like taking the 2C1 body to Ganmain. :)
I'm getting fairly good at removing the panels now, have found there are in fact a few spot welds on the top rear panels which I find interesting. But everywhere these darn stitch welds are time consuming to grind off. Best technique is to cut against the angle iron frame from the inside where the weld is then go outside where it is easier to access then cut along each panel and remove. What is left then gets opened up between the stitches so a thin disc can be inserted to cut along what's left of the weld flush with the flat of the angle iron. Once all the welds have been ground off I'll go over the rustier bits with a flapper wheel before blasting.
Will post some more pics later today.
Thanks for the paint recommendation, Mike.

Almost naked
 

Just about all the panels off now and she's looking pretty skeletal.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0986/web.jpg

The left hand side.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0990/web.jpg

The corners are made from three pieces.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0993/web.jpg

Rear view. I was hoping to save the lower right-hand locker section but there was enough rust there to warrant removal. I was glad I did because there was a lot hidden between the skin and frame.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...W_0988/web.jpg

I think the neighbours are getting a little tired of the noise. :no4:

Good progress Keith :thup:
How do you manage to get one of those " dispensation " things :confused
Are they available in shops ? :D
Guessing if so may warrant investigation by ICAC for bribery and corruption .Jewellery store bribes and the like ?

Dispensation
 

Yes, dispensation chits may be purchased from jewellers, also new car dealers and travel agents to name but a few. They tend to be on the expensive side, reducing potential funding for vital restoration work so in some ways it's a self defeating strategy. :fry:

re Almost naked
 

Keith that looks like a good stage to get some really accurate engineering drawings for future reference.

Drawings
 

Indeed we do....