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-   -   trying to find my bearings where am i ? (http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14477)

RichardT10829 21-03-10 12:55

trying to find my bearings where am i ?
 
ok folks just to be kind (and as my wheels are pretty goosed) i want to give my carrier a full set of wheel, idler and return roller bearings, anyone able to give me the exact sizes or any info about whats and wheres ? as soon as they are done the diff and tracks are going back onto the hull which has now had its lower section basecoated in 1940's desert sand :)

cheers in advance guys


Richie

PS i pulled a bearing from one of the wheels i bought (knocked the axel out yesterday)
it is coded MJ50, outer race part no is 24G41, inner race no is 24G42 and the bearing cage which appears to be of brass construction is MJ50-A

S LATHERON 21-03-10 17:35

Bearings and seals
 
Hi Richard
the link below is to an excellent firm supplying all types of brearings and seals, Part of a Nation wide company, nearest branch to you I believe is Stockton,
http://www.hub-4.com/directory/.../a...ockton-on-tees.
loads of knowledge so worth a call
Stephen :salute:

charlie fitton 21-03-10 20:10

bearings-
 
the service manual states exactly which bearings, by SKF number if I recall, for all of thw wheels.

At 70$ each side, of each wheel, you are looking at pounds of, well, pounds...

Are you sure you need to replace all of them? Are you entering a race?

Perry Kitson 21-03-10 22:28

SKF/FAG 6408 (40x110x27) for the road wheels. One each of 6408, 6310 (50x110x27) for the front idler. I put in bearings with contact seals (2RS) suffix and popped out the inside seal on installation.

Perry

Alex Blair (RIP) 22-03-10 01:01

2rs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Perry Kitson (Post 128122)
SKF/FAG 6408 (40x110x27) for the road wheels. One each of 6408, 6310 (50x110x27) for the front idler. I put in bearings with contact seals (2RS) suffix and popped out the inside seal on installation.

Perry

Hi Perry..
That 2RS means "Sealed both sides..." some bearings have only the seal on one side and the ball bearing retainer,balls are open on one side..
These 2RS bearings can be repacked but require a little gizmo that can be bought at any bearing house that will do the job..but they are so cheap that it is better to just replace them as you can't see the condition of the balls or inner or outer race and only would be done in an emergency situation..
They come from the factory pre greased so as you figured out the seals are already in the bearing..
:remember :support :drunk:

Lynn Eades 22-03-10 02:31

Richard
 
Unless you have a budget like a James Bond movie, I would agree with Charlie.
The seal system works well. You have 14 bearings with the 40mm bore, two with the 50mm bore, plus the 4 in your return rollers (something like 6308)
If you pop them all, clean them, oil them, then decide. They are big bearings, and even if not perfect will last a long time. (remember you track also has a limited life)Of as much importance is sealing them to keep the water etc out. so you also have to come up with 20 seals.
There are two seal systems (early and late), and you may have both kinds on the one carrier.
I do have some new bearings, but have pulled enough 65 year old good ones, to not have to use the new ones.
The bearings in the wheels are all 6000 series (metric annular groove) which is standard stuff, however the bearings in your fan extension are imperial, as is the one at the bottom of the steering column.
Having re read your post, it sounds like you have a different kind of bearing. maybe some photos might help.

kevin powles 22-03-10 10:24

Dont pay more than a fiver each for your bearings!!!!
 
Hi, Richard, Go for the 50mm bore ones for all your wheels and have a spacer machined up, I have the dimensions here for the spacer. 50mm bearings cost about £6.00 each on ebay, cheaper if you buy bulk, 40mm ones cost £30.00 each and why not keep both seals in the bearing. I done my two rear wheels like this and they run perfect, see a previous thread on this subject :salute:

RichardT10829 22-03-10 11:02

the bearing i pulled earlier yesterday were from wheels off a carrier (but not from mine) that bearing is actually in good order however all of mine on the carrier are totally shot ie i can rock the wheel back and forth with quite alot of slop... i pulled the front idler and can confirm 50mm on the inside and 40mm on the outside the 50mm one is coded 1408 made in the USA, i got a quote back from a firm and they want £30 per bearing +VAT +Carriage.... i like your idea Kevin but i have had issues running shims in the past (on heavy vehicles) unless they are 100% spot on they spin on the axle and eventually fret onto the stub. i will give it a go though.

i have to change them all lads they are absolutely jiggered me being me i want the thing absolutely sound before going on the roads nothing more embarassing than losing a wheel on the Coast infront of the local Street Racers.

so Kevin i want them all to be 50 x 110 x 27 then ?

kevin powles 22-03-10 22:06

Hi Richard, I have a drawing here in the garage will show it to you at easter time, basically you throw away the centre spacer between the bearings and make a new spacer which incorporates a shoulder each end to take the 50mm inside i.d. of the bearing, 27mm long. I cant see any reason for removing the shields and just fitting the bearigs and forget about greasing them. If later you want to remove the bearing just get a set of bearing internal pullers, pop the shield and pull one side out.

The cost save is on the price of the bearings, the down side is you need a machinist to make the spacer, If you can get the machine steel and cut it to the correct length, then supply the machinist with six of these ready to turn, It will be cheaper. I havent changed the front idler on my carriers yet but it maybe worth fitting the £5.00 50x27x110 and getting two 40x27x110 bearing and keeping the idler as original, luck would have it my work place has a couple of these sitting on the shelf waiting for a new home. :salute:

RichardT10829 23-03-10 02:25

what did you use for the tubing i presume it allready had the 40mm ID bore then you turn the OD to 50mm leave the wide shoulder on between the two bearings ? i have access to a laith just wondering what to use as the shim, stainless ?

Lynn Eades 23-03-10 06:48

Richard
 
The current number for your 1408 bearing is 6408

RichardT10829 23-03-10 09:59

cheers Lynn


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