Molasses rust removal
 

I recently bought a 20 litre tub of molasses, dirt cheap from the rural hardware store.

Had a go at the process . I have to report that it works very well . I used a 44 gallon drum. A Morris drive shaft and gear box lid ... covered in rust . I used a strong mix .. around 5 parts water to 1 part molasses. Maybe the Summer heat has helped the process along , only took 5 days .

I've tried the electrolisis many times..in my opinion, it's more fiddly and not as effective as molasses.

A plus for molasses is you can leave it unattended . The electrolosis method always needs to be checked on , a possible fire hazard with fumes and electrical equipment overheating .

The molasses method has many advantages over the electrolysis method.
Firstly, the ease and simplicity of setting up
The environmental impact, no fumes, no electricity, safety factor and COST!
But also on the work piece, it's not as harsh, can dip most materials and great for freeing up seized components such as linkage and track.
Plus you can have a couple on the goat the same time, large IBC (1000L container), maybe a 45 gall and a 20L bucket, no worrying about separate chargers or power!
Gets my vote all the time. :drunk:
Yes, heat does help, but if you in no hurry, not a problem. :thup2:

I think that another advantage that molassses has over electrolysis is that with electrolysis the nearer a part is to the anode the more effect there is, with relatively little effect in deep holes or where components are rusted together. In those situations a purely chemical process over a long time works very much better. Basicly the slower the process the more thorough the result.

If you want a quick result sandblasting is the way to go IMHO but it also won't get between rusted together components.

David

For this to work does the mixture need to be warm? I'm just wondering with out cold canadian winters if it work setup outside?

A cautionary molasses tale
 

I bought a Ruger 10/22 rifle in the spring and there was a light surface rust on the barrel. Thinking I'd try the molasses trick, I made a tall tubular stand and lined it with heavy plastic sheeting. In went the barrel and 100% molasses. Six months later I remembered what I was doing and hauled it out. (Admit it folks, sometimes life gets away on us.) The molasses has stained and caked in places. It also pitted the steel and shows highs-and-lows were the plastic wrap folded.

I now have the piece coated with automatic transmission fluid and it will be brushed clean. (Might do that today because there is freezing rain pellets falling outside.)

The molasses also is quite messy to clean up, and stained some clean t-shirts I grabbed as rags. They look like I wiped my backside!

Too slow and messy and stinks!!!!

Slow but sure......
 

I have never tried molasse in such epicurean endeavors...... but having a sweet tooth, I will no doubt give it a go when things warm up around here.

Typical of all chemical/bacterial reaction moderate heat is key to initiating and maintaining the process..... and from what I hear you do not want to do it inside the house by the wood stove during the winter.

The electrolysis has a lot of advantages when it comes to speed but ....yes it is messy....requires monitoring...and toxic so care needs to be exercised.

Now tell me more about that funny looking Morris drive-shaft!!!!!! the darn thing has two of those funny looking part rubber flex couplings that seem identical to the winch drive-shaft between the T case and the winch on short wheel base CMPs....... made unobtanium........ may be I was I just looking in the wrong direction....... are they available to restore Morris trucks????
eventually had to buy a whole truck just for that part.

Cheers

They are LAYRUB joints . I think we discussed them a little previously . They were used in various industrial applications ( Lister dump trucks) and a few trucks used them as well - Commers in the 1950's . They come in different sizes .

I think they are still available but not sure where. I obtained two in good enough shape to use. The Morris wireless vans had them for the drive to the generator . And I think the WW2 Humber 4X4 has them between the gearbox and transfer box ?

I recently used molasses to remove surface on the lift chain of an old air motor hoist I am refurbishing after reading another thread about it on here. After purchasing some at a local bulk grocery store (The Bulk Barn), I found it is also sold at our local feed supply house in gallon jugs for a lot less, and easier because you don't have to stand there for ages ladling it into the smaller container from the bulk pail. Slower than molasses in January....
I only left it in for a week, which was reflected by mediocre results, but I did this in an old windshield washer fluid gallon jug and find that it builds pressure after a couple of days at room temperature. I have it in my basement so it won't freeze and I don't doubt it could rupture the container if I didn't crack the lid open regularly to vent it. Something to be aware of when storing your left over mixture as it could make quite a mess.

Isn't one of the members doing a complete set of carrier tracks?

Ha ha, you guys crack me up! You had the same conversation just 11 mths ago! Both true CRAFTsmen!

Must be an age thing!! :yappy:

You need to be careful what type of items you try to clean and how long they are in the solution. The problem is many of this products remove the rust by pulling the carbon out of the the steel. Removing cardon for instance will break main small coil springs and damage other harden steel parts.