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DarrenCollins 08-04-19 14:22

Another Chev engine Identification
 
5 Attachment(s)
Hi all.
I have found conflicting information on this new blue flame I have recently acquired in regards to pedigree. It has a R type engine number that I read was problematic. Here are the details with Pic's to follow. Thanks for the help.

Engine Number: R318119
Head cast number. 3836848 Head does seem to have a single "|" Bar
Block Cast Number: 3738307 ( May be 3738807)

Engine
Attachment 106640

Engine No
Attachment 106637

Head cast
Attachment 106638

Head Bar
Attachment 106641

Block cast No
Attachment 106639

Davistine Liddle 08-04-19 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarrenCollins (Post 259930)
Hi all.
I have found conflicting information on this new blue flame I have recently acquired in regards to pedigree. It has a R type engine number that I read was problematic. Here are the details with Pic's to follow. Thanks for the help.

Engine Number: R318119
Head cast number. 3836848 Head does seem to have a single "|" Bar
Block Cast Number: 3738307 ( May be 3738807)

I think R stands for "THE “R” FOR RHD MOTORS"

http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/.../18680/3836848
http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/.../18186/3738307
http://home.znet.com/c1937/Cast.htm
http://inliners.org/casting/numbers.html

http://oldchevytrucks.com/blog/index...-cover-trivia/


Hope this will help

Regards

Davis

DarrenCollins 10-04-19 13:10

Id Info
 
Hiya, Thanks for the update and the links but unfortunately am no better off as the links cause more confusion. I was hoping that Lang and Tony Smith could narrow down the parameters of this engine. The links you supplied have been a great help.
Cheers :)

Tony Smith 10-04-19 13:38

We'll, I can't tell you too much other than this seems to be the last series of 235 Blue Flame engine, a 1958-62 engine with Hydraulic lifters. These engines are rated at 125Hp. The head is the famous '848 head that can also be used on the 261 engine block to give higher compression.

I agree with Lang that the "R" in the serial number in this case indicates a factory supplied "Replacement" block, so while a '58-'62 build, it was put into an older vehicle by a Holden or Chev dealer.

DarrenCollins 11-04-19 00:16

Thanks for the info

DarrenCollins 20-04-19 13:27

Update on this engine
 
1 Attachment(s)
The engine above in question was found to have a couple of severe cracks on the engine block around the welsh plugs rendering the block unsuitable for the blitz. I have sourced another block and another engine which I will post in another reply. I did however find another I Bar beneath the block build stamp.
I understand the II is for a 261 but anyone know why there would be a single I bar on the block and the head . The block ID is below:
Attachment 106933

Thanks for your help.

David Herbert 20-04-19 15:58

Darren,
The group of markings in your photo above are the marks that the foundry use to enable them to keep track of which blocks were cast on particular days or from a particular batch of iron. If there are problems they can then isolate affected batches.

The number 3738307 is the drawing number of the casting. The finished block would have a part number depending on the exact way it was machined. Thus a block with blank pads for an accessory would have a different part number in the factory to one with them drilled and tapped but that number would not be stamped into the block usually. Notice that the actual engine number is stamped into the machined pad but the casting and production batch numbers are cast into the block, not stamped. You can't stamp a raised number ! The casting number is only changed if the un-machined casting changes, so extra features would get a new number whether it was an extra pad for a bracket or bigger bores or different water ways.

David

Dave Newcomb 22-04-19 03:35

Heads for 261s
 
Hi all; Please note that the All heads used on 261 eng's have 6 extra Steam Holes drilled in the mating surface. These are because of the siamesed cylinders with no coolant flow between them. the 261 head gasket will give you the locations and a simple 1/8th " drill can make the holes. My machinist missed this and we had a 'redo'. Newc


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