tanks
 

Dave

The red one is the original C8 tank for the 1A1/2 body... you'll need two of course - LH and RH . The other one in your pic is a normal Ford cab 13 tank with a short filler neck ! .. You can see the Ford style sender unit on it with its supressor capacitor still there. The capacitor is there cos there are points inside the sender unit that create a tiny spark ! No, the tank won't blow up with it fitted.

We were discussing the brass plates on a previous forum topic .. the plates screw onto the top on the DND type tanks .

The Duple bodied C8's have a unique tank with the filler neck mounted onto the outside facing end/side cover of the tank.
Mike

Mike, thank you very much for the ID on the tanks! I piled all the parts and sheetmetal that were in the shed with the C8 into one location to be brought down with it. Thought it best to get it all, and sort it out later. Ended up with a lot of 13 cab stuff I can't use, but still better than it being scrapped!
Thanks again, David

The second photo in the last group shows that you have the fuel sender unit for your c8 tank
Dont misplace it they are hard to find :thup2:

Dave, it would be my pleasure to assist you in any way and I would love to pop over and see your C8. PM me and we'll swap contact info...I'd like to include you in our reenactor forum with an eye to getting you out to some of our events. Derek.

hey dave good vehicle
that makes 3 funny looking trucks in texas now. i am in the works to get a 15CWT as soon as i have someplace to put it. derec is a great guy and has done a good job bringing his truck up to speed.
dave d. south of waco.

Thank you Derek for the offer! Have sent you my contact information.
Thanks, Dave for the reply! Thanks also for the support of our funny-looking trucks!
Went to the local wrecking yard today and bought a pair of six lug hubs and brake drums for the front axle that is presently under the C8. Now, at least, it can roll on a matching set of "16 civilian wheels. :rolleyes
Have a good lead on another pair of rear adapters, but won't jinx the transaction by talking about it too much. I found my rear adapters fit nicely on the new, six lug fronts I just installed, although may be a bit wider than originally equipped.
Hope Wallace Wade makes some tires for it soon!
Regards, David

From the CMP Yahoo Groups:

"Dennis Deck wrote (Monday 13 Oct, 1.30am):
I recently sold my 1941 Cab 12 C8 CMP to Chuck Anderson in Oregon. He
is going to finish the restoration project I started many years ago."

I just picked it up from Dennis last week. I'm starting by rebuilding the carb and figuring out wiring & dash. Unfortunately there isn't another one locally (at least that I'm aware of), so I have nothing to look at to see how things should look.

Could I trouble a fellow C8 owner to post some pictures of the dash & how the top front of the cab mounts onto the top of the windshield?

I wish I would have taken more/better pictures of the smokin' nice C8 that was a the MVPA show in Portland last August. :doh: At the time I had no idea I was two months away from getting one.

I think this is what your after
Top of windshield bolts to wood panel which is screwed in along turrett face

dash pics
first three 12 cab dash
last one 11 cab dash

Thank you very much Andrew! Those are great pictures. :salute:

I don't know what the "dip button" is, I thought someone mounted a starter button on the dash. However, looking at the wiring....I can see it is original to the vehicle.

I'm missing the trim piece that goes around the top front and sides of the cab. This must be where the wood pieces are screwed onto the cab. Should the trim piece be made of canvas or metal? It almost looks like the welt material that goes under the hood (on top of the radiator shroud) on a jeep.

Regards,
Chuck

The trim is on the outside of the turrett to cover some of the holes for the wood frame holes . This is light gauge metal
The wood frame goes from behind each door across the top of door openening then across the windscreen

pics
 

Chuck

these pics will help you.

The original section of wood that fits across the top of the w/screen, has a shallow rebate in it .. the angle metal you see sitting on top of the tubular frame is supposed to fit into the rebate . I used a flat section of wood as I didn't have a router on hand to do the work. So , what you end up with is that angle metal piece should be flush with the wood.. sit in it rather than on top of it as in my pic.


Mike

Drawing
 

A QUICK DRAWING OF WHAT I AM TRYING TO PUT INTO WORDS !

Mike

Guys,

Thank you very much! This is a huge help.

While digging in the shop tonight I found the angle metal piece that goes between the windshield frame and the wood. also I found the thick rubber pieces that go on around the roof hatch.

On the dashboard, I've got two of the three toggle switches (instrument on/off, and Tail-White/Red), but need the Axle light toggle. Also, I'd like to replace my speedo at some point as mine is pretty tough.

Thanks again for all the help!

The dip button is the headlight dimmer switch. In England the headlights have "main beam" (high beam) and "dipped beam" (low beam). Hope this helps. Kind of like the bonnet (hood) and the boot (trunk). Lets not get into "near side" and "off side" yet.

Paul

C8 engine question?
 

Hello all,
Had the time today to tear into the C8 and make it closer to being ready for the sandblaster late next week. Have found absolutely no rust-through anywhere, and things came apart without too much problem.
I will say, however, that the engineer who decided on using all of the flat head screws on the floor and interior panels should have been beaten severely! :fry:
The boss on the right side of the engine behind the distributor, where the number I think should normally be, is blank. On CMP engines, are they located somewhere else or is this more likely a replacement?
Thanks, David

engine
 

Hi David

I think maybe you have a replacement engine. On the early C8's, the engine doesn't have a crankcase fume re-cirulating system. Instead, it has the tube that sits in the airstream , it suck out the fumes.

Yes, those flat head screws are a pain, I had to drill them out .

Mike

David:
My F8 also had all those flathead screws in the floor. We used a manual impact screw driver to get most of them out. When all was done I think we were able to save only about a half dozen!

Regards,
Jim

Thanks Mike and Jim for the replies!
Mike, turns out the engine is stuck anyway. Have a good running 216 and 235 hydraulic lifter engine here, so have options.
Got every one of the screws out but one using the old "heat and quench" method. Heat to just a glow then soak with water. Does something to the rust. Could almost screw them off by hand after. Nasty work, though.
Had a torch in one hand and a garden hose sprayer in the other for most of the afternoon.
Thanks, David

No Numbers on two of my engines
 

Hi David

Under the side valve cover just infront to the distributor you may find and engine number this is the second location for stamping the block.

Take a look at this thread for a picture http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/sh...=number&page=8

Cheers Phil

Thank You Phil for the information!
Scraped the block in the second location and came up with nothing, so I guess it is a replacement. Just as well since I would like to stay away from the cast iron pistons and babbitted rods on the 216.
Have a 235 full pressure engine with hydraulic lifter from a '57 car that seems a good candidate for the truck. Runs great, but will do a quick rebuild on it before installation. Want to do it right the first time, as it looks like a beast to change out the motor.
Any pitfalls with using the 235?
Thanks, David

David,
I have just put in a 235 in my C60s. Went in quite easily, spent a bit of time making a new hand throttle bracket to mount around the waterpump as the original does not fit, and a lot more time getting the original bellhousing to line up properly on the block. I have heard of problems with the length oh the shaft on the waterpump (too long) but mine was fine.
My only problem was not knowing about "plastigauges" when doing the big ends. After my first test drive I could here a knock under load, turns out I have 4thou clearance on one bigend. Talk about learning the hard way...
Sure if you do a search for 235's in this forum you will find a few comments about them.
Goodluck
Rich

The fun begins!
 

Got the C8 back from the sandblaster last week, and luckily had only a few minor spots of rust-through show up in the sheetmetal. I did try for a few hours to retrieve any original markings through the many coats of paint before it went, but the thick brush-applied top coats of red made it virtually impossible. Did notice today a steel manufacturers mark on the rear cab section after it returned blasted.
Have major issues now in the drivetrain, though, as the transmission case is busted. About 1/2 of the casting that constitutes the ball fitting for the torque tube on the transmission is also missing.
Thought the rear end looked odd in that the rear wheels had a lot of negative camber. Turns out that the rear axle housing is bent beyond reasonable repair. Plus the U bolts on the aftermarket overload springs that were installed wore completely through the axle housing! Someone beat this truck like a mule.
Having found all of this, I will not be discouraged, but my wallet is thin! Did a lot of soul-searching on this, but here's what worked out for me:
PURISTS MAY WANT TO COVER THEIR EYES NOW!
Engine was going to be replaced with a 235 anyway. Have a nice four-speed top-loader from a '41 1.5 ton Chev G506 here for a while from a previous conversion project. Have a rear axle assembly here from a six lug '90 model Chev Blazer 4x4 that will fit perfectly according to measurements.
This will give me a good engine and transmission, open driveshaft, and a rear end with decent gears that will still accept the C8 wheel adapters and wheels.
I am now ready to accept my punishment! :no4:
Thanks, David

David:
Be of strong heart! If your wallet is thin now, you ain't seen nuthin' yet! Just remember that the best rationale for what you spend if that you're saving a piece of history, something few people are in a position to do.

Regards,
Jim

camber for high speed cornering :D (very low speed cornering more like) :doh:
someone must have tried to use it as a 30cwt instead of 8cwt to bend diff housing :nono:
With the intended combo it should pick your top speed well past the usual 40mph mark

Thanks for the replies!
These modification were certainly not in mind when I originally received the truck, but all are reversible in the future if correct parts do come around. My front axle assembly had also been changed from original, so wasn't starting with a pristine truck to begin with. I am still absolutely thrilled to own it, and am looking foreward very much to restoring it!
Another cab back panel came with the C8 that was in much better shape than the original. I planned on using it until I noticed a difference on the upper section where the roof assembly would be bolted. The top angle had what appears to be indentions for the seat backs, where the original did not. Is this a cab 11/12 difference, or a Chev/Ford thing?
Thanks, David

Dave, just do what you have to do to "get er done". You have a good choice for a rear axle and the Chevy tranny should work okay. As for the purists I think they can appreciate the work you will have had to do just to restore the truck. Anyway a lot of the purists are old and can't get up if they get down to look underneath. :rolleyes
Barry

David there is a difference in the 11 and 12 back panels and is as you have mentioned the rebate for the seats
not hard to notch the 11 cab one to suit the 12

Hold up!
 

Before you proceed any further Dave, a MLUer from Manitoba, Bill MacKenzie had the complete frame and running gear, sans body for a C15A for sale. If you're interested, I can dig up my emails to him and see if he still has it. Derek.