steering cam control plate
 

HI ALL,
I have just assmbeled this toda. before I assmbeled it every thing was nice and free. but, after I tightend the nuts under the vehicle the plate is stuk. so my qustion is- is it ok? or did I do any thing wrong? the plae has a v shap, should the V be on the front or at the back??
thank you all
arie

V is to the front. It allows the control rods to pass over the opening on turns.

OK, the V faces the front. quston, why is it the plate stuk?

Are the two rollers and forks attached? They would hold it place but there would be some movement unless they are set too tight. Did the cam plate move nicely when attached to the floor plate and only seized up when the plate with the cam was installed? I wonder if the threaded pins that attach the forks are the right ones and not to long to hit the floor plate when put in.

If none of that is the problem, disconnect the forks and rollers and if still stiff have a good look to see what's stopping it from moving and then we can figure out why.

The 2 x bolts that go through the clamping blocks to hold the rollers on,either side of the cam plate, one of them has a square on the top and this is machined as an eccentric pin to get your adjustment clearance on the roller to the cam , which should be about .010 thou, each side set when in the straight ahead position.Cheers Andrew.

Thanks. thar square bolt shoul be on the right side or the left??
arie

There should be one square headed bolt in each clamping block. Each side of the cam needs to be adjusted to get the same clearance, and then done up tight, Cheers Andrew.

In fact, one book suggests making the left one tighter as it is much harder to access for adjustment, than the right one, when everything is in the carrier.

There is an arrow stamped in the eccentric bolt top to assist with setup.

Hello Andrew do you have a can plate and the oil relief valve please send

... is it a common practise to read the handbook supplied with a new car . . .?

Nah! a man wouldn't do that. :D

not to be gender biased . . . :nono:


http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...34&postcount=2

But you cannot deny them. There are (at least) two distinct types. :devil: (cam block bolts, that is)

OK, i get that. so now my qustion is- at this situation, the rollers are free and the rods from the plate to the steering are not installed yet should the plate moove in full??
thanks
arie

Just a thought, I recently installed my cam plate and found it was fouling against the bolts which fix the plate to the bottom hull. I installed the bolts so the nuts were onto inside, thinking it would stop them corroding, but the bolts were slightly too long and fouled on the cam. I put them the other way around and all was clear to move.

If the forks aren't attached the only thing limiting its movement is the rollers. If that's not it then there's something touching it that shouldn't be. A good visual inspection should find out what.

in service the cross tube only travels 3/8" from center to full travel each way, so the cam plate does not travel far enough as to have the rollers drop off the corners of the cam plate. The bolts go up from the bottom, at least for two of them because they thread into the short angle irons on the div. plate line.

I just reassembled my cam plate this winter. I would suggest (like I did) jack the carrier up and put on proper jack stands so the pressure is off of the tracks. and check operation from there. I had taken the cross shaft out, thoroughly cleaned it, removed all the rust, cleaned and re-greased the cross tube rollers. New bearing in the cam plate (common GM sized bearing) and it warps the track as it should. I will come clean and state the I haven't driven the carrier yet (just put the engine in) but I believe its good to go.