LP2 VR 2225 Build
 

After a week of looking. It was time to make a start . Because I live on the coast I need to get a good coverage of metal primer on the inside of the hull so I gave it a light sand good clean out , prep washed all the drivers gunner compartment .Then I followed Darrins lead and hand painted all the edges and around all the blocks , fittings and the hard to get at places that the spray gun would not reach . Not much fun laying on your back upside down spraying under the fore deck .. Also test fitted Colins Bins and drilled the bolt holes so they can now come off for some green . I used PPG rustfighter 215 . This is the primer I used this on my jeep and trailer very good primer it even states on the Data sheet that it can be left for up to six month before top coats are required which gives me time to get the green on .. Dale



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It was quite at work today so I made a start at milling out the old pins and making new scale steel pins on the lathe I'll go though all the linkages so I know they will be strong and free if I need to remove them later on .. Dale

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Today was a great day for spray painting so I gave the protec kharki green number 3 a go on the stowage boxes , It took a while and a bit of practice to get it on even . Dale


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The other day I cleaned up the rear cargo deck and give it a good prime as well

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Also painted up Colins nice Drivers tool box .Dale

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I'm going to buy some taps and dies , to clean out threads etc . I don't wont to buy a complete set can someone tell me the three or four common sizes used on a LP2 carrier . Dale

Hi Dale, 1/4 and 5/16 UNF bottom taps would cover it.
Colin.

The outside of the hull is now re primed ready for green , motor coming out next week , then tidy up the inside ready for green as well . Then start to fit her out .. I've been working on the floor plate in spare time at home . In the second photo you can see when I removed the crank handle cover at front , I found some light yellow WW2 paint would this be faded camo or desert yellow . Dale




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I had a good morning at work today , a friend came to help me out with his truck to pull out the engine cover , motor , then the air scoop . Monday I'll clean up the engine bay ready for some more primer ... Dale




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Looking good!
 

Looks pretty good there Dale, hey I hadn't noticed before but all the LP carriers Iv'e seen over here have the lifting hooks at the rear welded on, was riveting an Aussie thing?

Hello Lew . I think most Aussie carriers they where riveted on , but metgas where spot welded . Others on MLU would know , it was talked about before . Dale

Lew, It was a surprise to me when I arrived at Colin Jones's place in Adelaide, how different some of the Australian carriers are to the ones at home.
Here are a couple of shots to show spot welding. These must be Met Gas.

I had a big day today started 6.30 am finished 2.30 pm . Hand sanded all the engine compartment and wire brushed all the welds prep washed clean up the job hand painted all the edges and then re primed to get a good coverage over the metal . Dale





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Can someone tell me when I order parts for my motor , like head and carb gasket sets spark plug leads and other bits which model number and year do I state ? also the best place to buy them . Is it best to go 12 volt or 6 volt .. Dale

parts
 

Macs Autos in the States. They also have everything in 12 volt including 12 volt starter and PowerGen alternators that look like 6 volt generators. Consider elctric fuel pumps and Jolley Engineering (UK) for electronic ignition and you will eliminate all the hassles of old motoring. Just my thoughts. Ive done that with all my flatheads. Nothing like first start everytime, even after they have been sitting for a while.

Today I removed the rear pioneer plate to have the tail light brackets welded on . Here are some photos . Darrin ask for some photos of the exhausts that Colin set up on my machine . Dale


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Dont forget the second bracket on right exhaust pipe mate!!! Might make it dip to the left with the imballance.....!!! :)
Nicely coming along mate. :note:

Thanks for the help with the bearings everyone they are all out now I had to hit a lot harder then I thought to get them out , but once we got the hang of it . It was not that bad four wheel off to Canungra next week to get re- rubbered . In the second photo you can see a complete bearing set in the third photo you can see I'm missing U71 Bearing spacer I also need two outer seals if some-one can help me out with these parts , photo four two axles what's the diff between the two ? one has an waste in the middle plus if I need to buy some spare bearings where can i get them from . Also what is the best way to check their condition ? .. Dale



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If no one fronts up with a spacer, have one turned up. the critical dimension is the width, which should be the same as the wheel center. The axle step is of no consequence. the bearings are quite expensive. The ones you have might be numbered 1408. The modern number replaces the first digit with a 6 (6408)
The slot filled bearing is a higher load bearing (one extra ball) What ever you can get will be fine. The best option is another wheel assy. for spacer and bearings.
The seals will be "off the shelf " at the bearing shop. Take the seal carrier and the seal track to the shop for the size.
Your carrier is looking great! Keep up the good work.

Thanks for info Lynn when I spin them I can hear every now and then a bit of noise looks like a bit of pitting in the out side race where the bearing has not moved for a while is this normal and nothing to worry about . Dale

Dale, once you have cleaned the bearing, you need to oil them. then you turn them and see how they feel. If the bearing is rust pitted, it is junk. How ever it could rumble on for a long time, depending on how bad they are. They'll have to get pretty bad before they start to wobble, or won't go around. From a practical point of view you could run bearings with minor imperfections as long as you keep a good eye on them. They are probably $60.00 each (or more) so buying some extra wheels gambling that the bearing are good might be a wise move. Put your worst ones in one wheel and watch that one.
The carrier sealing system has proven it's self over time and many bearings are still good for another go.

Does anyone know where I can buy the modern day equivlent for the riverts to hold in place the linner . Also I managed to get out the round head slotted retaining screws U 28 I'll need some of them as well . Dale


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Dale. this is just a tease. I have the screws at home, but not heading that way until next year. :devil: (Shame I dont have the BSF ones for my carriers) You might have to make them from set screws (bolts that are threaded to the head)
The cups you could Araldite into place (I did). If you could locate some suitable copper, you could form the heads. You need long and short ones.

Here are some ebay U.K and USA bearing possibilities.
Auction # 141008766719 uk cheaper. Are buget but should be good for many years. EU made.
# 130573027106 usa
# 190852765613 usa. These ones are angular contact, and would need to be used in pairs. Quite expensive.

Riveting suspension Cups
 

I use countersunk alloy rivets, with the countersunk on the inside, bolt a suspension ball into the head of the recess and the rivet sticks up and make a ''snap'' to dome the little head over like a rivet top.
I think the aircraft industry uses this type of rivet, you can get them in various lengths and just trim to suit. The challenge is to find new cups.

I had a good day today . Because My wheels are away to have new tyres I sent away some parts to be sand blasted they came up real nice . Then I primed ready for green . Is $150 per hour normal for sand blasting these guys need a medal for doing that for a job .. Dale




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Here are some photos of my lower hull ready for enamel in the morning . Do other carriers have this texture finish to their armor plate ? looks like wood grain .. Dale


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Very happy with my spray painting got the setting correct thanks for the tips

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Can some one tell me if this is the way to go ? The old leather seals are worn out with a 1 mm gap around them . I could only get modern seals is this the way to go ? also are these the correct way around


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Two of the U66 are bent what the best way to bend them back flat .. Dale

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Hi Dale, correct. :)
Colin.

Dale, Does the 1mm gap indicate that there is excessive play in the bearings?

............ or that the leather had dried out and shrunk?

Just the leather has shrunk and dried out , in the old metal seal you can see day light all the way around I don't think it would hold grease and stop dirt . Lynn bearing are ok . Dale


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