Jack

As ever, your attention to detail is an inspiration to we "approximate" restorers.

Lang

Thanks Lang.

I removed the body to paint the underside and to make it easier to fit the floorboards.

I don't have any clues as to what the floorboards are held down with but as the body is held down with large wide head bolts I decided to use these elevator bolts I found on the internet and imported from the States.

The boards are varnished and I sprayed the underside with body deadener.
It is ready to refit permanently.

Looks Good

Body is back on and outer guards have been fitted but still require a lot of work to straighten them as they have had a hard life. Now all the guards are in situ I can reassess the running boards. Back in Post #70 I had a go at straightening them. I was hopeful they could be salvaged but once sandblasted too much material will disappear and I am not satisfied they can be straightened enough to look presentable.

Fortunately the inner section of the running boards is solid and straight so I decided to have a go at replacing the flatter section with the raised ribs and join the two.

I bought an old bead roller which luckily had the correct profile wheel.

The last time I used one of these was about 20 years ago when I built a replica Kubelwagen body and I used an identical machine to put the ribs in the side panels.


A test piece shows promise so we'll see how it goes.

What gauge steel......
 

Hi Jack

How thick was the steel you used....?

Nice work....

Bob C

1.2mm cold rolled panel steel.
I made up some simple tooling to press the ends of the rib which flattens out the pull in the sheet metal at the end of the rib. Trial Looks ok.

The length of the pressing and operation of the machine means this is ideally a two man job so I supported the sheetmetal from my overhead gantry which enables the chain block to travel as the steel runs through the roller.
Doing it single handedly is slow but the first rib worked so I’ll see what happens with the second.

Managed to get the ribs rolled and dressed at the ends on the first step.
Maintained parallel and didn’t get too much distortion overall.

I formed the outside curve by pressing a 60mm pipe into a piece of 100 x 50mm channel iron and dressed the ends over angle iron. This has stiffened up the outside considerably.
I cut back the original board to assist in trial fitting and lining up the eventual weld.

That looks really good. I like watching metal take shape like that, its an artform

What a superb piece of creative craftsmanship ! I feared that the ribs would pull the middle of the sheet narrower than the ends by some margin (it may be an illusion but that looks to have happened in the test piece). However the end result is excellent. I suppose that repairing the originals was technically possible but this is so much better than that and a much better use of man hours (quite a few I think).

Huge respect,
David

Thank you gents. It is certainly a challenge to make something like this but it is coming out as I hoped.
Once I trimmed down the new part and formed a curve to join the original I joined the two with Clecos. The inside curve and dressing the two together has relived much of the remaining warping and it looks very flat and straight now.

Following your work with haw .......
 

Very nice work.

Can you tell me what gauge (or mm) sheet metal you were using....cold rolled.... how many passes with progressive pressure did you need to be doing to finish a rib. I assume that you do one rib to its full depth before starting the next one.

It seems that every attempts I have made, on scrap pieces, results in a corrugated sewer pipe .... really curving back on itself. Is the secret to roll and stop short at each end to have a flat end surface.

Cheers
Bob C

Jack I have not been on MLU much in the past couple of years for various reasons BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I see you still do superb work and I remember visiting your place a couple (or is it 3) years ago and marveling at the work you were doing then on a Tilly and a Dodge ambulance.

Must go back through the threads and catch up again. :kangaroo

Bob, I did probably about ten gentle passes through the roller until the rib started to become defined then I could apply firmer pressure. I dressed each end as I completed each rib which flattened out the ends. I was expecting some inwards curving but am very pleased that I achieved what I wanted on the first attempt. I did start with the centre rib then alternated each side working outwards. I’m not a sheetmetal worker, I just make it up as I go along with the limited equipment I’ve got and hope for the best. You can do a lot with angle iron G clamps and hammers.

Cliff,

The Tilly has taken a short hiatus while the Ford gets completed. Jake has almost got the ambulance on the road. I will get some photos and update that thread.
I’ve retired since you were here last so getting a little bit more done these days.

Today I made a simple die to press the top hat sections for the support brackets that attach the running boards to the chassis outriggers.

Keyways are needed to allow fitting of coach bolts.

First running board is done and I am very happy with the fit. Just needs a little tidying then sandblast and paint.

I’ve run the bead roller over the second one in half the time.

Just thought I’d show how I folded to curve in the outside edge. A piece of pipe pressed into a piece of channel iron allows for nice curves.
Clamp the pipe on the apex of the curve and then centre in the channel.

I use whatever works and pieces of railway track are good for pressing over long lengths. But heavy to set up hence the use of my overhead gantry to facilitate positioning of the setup.

As the pressure comes down I just slacken the chain block and then remove the clamps holding the sheet as the curve begins and the pressure holds everything in place. It is crude but effective but for one off things like this it is hard to find engineers either interested or able to do exactly what you need.

Neat trick Jack.......
 

.....must remember that.

Gauges have been away for several months being overhauled.
Picked up today. The temperature gauge could not be repaired but I have another that might be ok.

Attachment 110111

Running board end pieces added for reinforcing and underside brackets welded in also. Final fit required a bit of heat to align the three mounting outrigger supports which have been bent over the years of use but aren't obvious until you try to align things up. There are not too many old vehicles that have a running board that fits neatly between the front and rear mudguards. Thank goodness: because it is a lot of work especially if you are trying to resurrect this crap.

All now ready for sandblasting.

Sandblasted, and a bit of filler to hide the weld join and painted ready to bolt on.

Very nice Jack. That is a lot of work and fitting to make those unique pieces, and your finished product looks amazing! I enjoy seeing your techniques and progress.

I totally agree with Wayne. A beautiful job and very creative craftsmanship. I learn something with almost every part that you re-create.

David

The last couple of weeks have been spent working on mudguards and other panels some of which have been part finished some time ago. All have required extensive work so it is nice to finally see some paint going on them. The mudguards themselves needed the running boards in situ before they could be finally finished so that is a pleasing milestone and the running boards are now finally fixed in place.