help with engine swap to 8BA engine
 

Hi would it be better to change my engine to the 8BA 24 stud head instead of my old 21 stud 1937 flate head in my FGT
Any help would be great

Thanks
Jason

Power
 

It will give you a bit more power, but the throttle linkage has to be re-jigged because the distributor goes where the old one bolts across the front of the engine.
Incidentally I was shown some photos which will make you cry, seriously cry...

Your FGT is ARN 132272, yes?

Get out your hanky and a glass of water for rehydration...

Thanks for that Keith i was just about to send a pm to you when you replied
yes my ARN is 132272
and i have a large glass of water ready
this does not sound good

Jason, you can fit the earlier heads, and the front mounted dizzy to your 8BA

Hi Lynn thanks for the info and help so all i need the early 24 stude heads and dizzy
:cheers:

These were kindly shared with me at Corowa...

And as Max Smart would say... "Missed it by that much".

These were taken about 4 or 5 years ago, it went for scrap only a matter of days before enquiries were made.

FGT No8 132272

One more
 

It still had all the crew seats, the tail and stop light box, AND the very elusive side curtain box on the left rear. Thanks to Tom Jensen for the pics.

Jason? Jason???
 

Somebody might need to go to Jason's house to revive him with a stiff drink. :cheers: :cheers:

Im going to need a very strong drink and a truck load of tissues
you have got to be kidding me
:bang:

Sad but true
 

To think it survived in such good condition too... I was pretty shattered when I saw it and heard the story from Tom. Although the number seemed familiar I hadn't made the connection with your truck until I checked my database.

What can you say and at least i have pics of its original back end
i would be lying if i said i wasnt shattered
but i will get over it at some stage lol
but i will not give up i will rebuild the rear end if it kills me
with your help Keith i will finnish it using your fgt as the blue prints

I will be in bed in the fetal position crying all night lol
I am a little upset thinking about it being crushed

Jason, hopefully the tears have slowed enough to read this.
You will need a timing cover to suit your dizzy,and studs and nuts to suit the heads (along with the heads)

Thanks for that Lynn i will see what i can do with the linkage first being the easiest option, if that does not work ill write down the info you have given me
and keep it as my second option
but thank you for the info and help
:thup2:

I feel for you Jason, I felt crook in the guts when Keith showed me these photos at Corowa, but this body has your name on it and that's gotta hurt. The only slight consolation is that it was gone long before you got the truck, it would be hard to live with if it got scrapped afterwards.

There's some pain in this hobby when we see or hear of stuff getting scrapped, and it doesn't get any worse than FGT bodies. However it's part of the deal and the only way to make it right is to build another one, and I admire your determination in that regard. As you say, at least you have a record of your body, and these photos won't hurt a bit when you're driving around in your fully restored FGT8 in glorious camo. You'll probably keep them in the glove box to show people!

With all the vehicles on the market today having accelerator cables it shouldn't be too hard to find an off the shelf cable the right length and save the trouble of fiddling with linkages.

Hi Tony you are right they will be in the glove box for people to see and now i know the ARN number was on the rear door too.

Thanks for the replie Robert you are right i will ring around and look online for the right one might save myself a little bit of hassle doing that

Thanks :thup2:

Neither of them is a blitz motor Jason, so it doesn't really matter, just use whichever one gets you on the road quicker/cheaper. However you need to consider your options for the future, which will depend on a whole range of factors as the resto proceeds. For example if you're aiming for strict originality you may want a 39-48 motor eventually, and you may even want to rebuild one. In that case you'd be selling your existing motor, so if you have a complete 8BA you should leave the heads and dizzy alone, as you'll only devalue it by changing them. They're worth good money complete and running, but only to 49-53 car/pickup enthusiasts, who don't want to see early heads or CMP twin belt pulleys!

On the other hand if you have a good running motor you may be happy to leave it there indefinitely. There's more than one CMP getting around with a 21 stud motor, and likewise 8BA motors. As Lynn mentions you can change the heads and dizzy for appearances, and likewise the crankshaft pulley, water pumps and generator if you want to fit twin belts. Of course you can't do anything about the bolt-on bellhousing, which gives the game away to the experts! Also you need to be aware that changing the heads and dizzy is a backward step. You'll lose the extra power and fuel economy of the 8BA, which is owed entirely to the higher compression heads, and you'll lose the much improved engine cooling, particularly around the problematical rear pots. This was corrected on the 8BA with greatly enlarged rear coolant passages, which will be mostly blanked off by an early head. As for the dizzy, we all know what a pain in the neck the crab is for changing/adjusting points, but that's easily solved by fitting an electronic breaker plate. More importantly you'll lose the 8BA timing cover, which unlike the early motors has a timing pointer. That means you'll never be able to time the motor accurately, and instead of using a timing light in a few minutes, you'll have to pull the whole dizzy off and fiddle around with a timing jig to even get close. That particular problem is discussed here: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ight=Milesmore

These are just a few of the factors that could influence the decision, and just like any restorer your plans will change along the way as other stuff becomes available. Which may include cash! As a general resto strategy it's useful to aim for strict originality, but don't hold up the entire project for want of a particular component. That includes motors, which can always be changed later, and often need to be changed, for various reasons including smoke inhalation! One of the best things about strict originality which is never mentioned is that it eliminates difficult decisions. For example in this case I wouldn't have to think twice, I'd simply stick the best motor in as a temporary measure and get on with the rest of the job.

On the question of accelerator cables, one of my F60L wrecks has an 8BA motor fitted with one, which is quite a tidy job and works well. I'll take some photos in daylight and post them as a guide to what's involved.

Thanks for that Tony , the engine that is already fitted is the 21 stud 1937 flatehead and it runs so i might just leave it alone and get on with finding the replacement chassis witch i plane on looking at one later this week if the rain lets up.
is their anything that i should keep an eye out for on the chassis

Replacement chassis
 

Is the chassis you're looking at a F15A or another FGT? Main thing is to make sure the chassis is intact front to the rear, and then check for rust, not usually a big problem with these... also look to see whether it looks true and straight, and also look for other signs of butchery.

Just so you guys know, the 48 and earlier motors circulated the water different to the 49 and newer motors so when you change the heads you have to do some fiddling with the holes in the block to prevent heating problems. I forget which holes are involved. If you find a 255 Merc engine the crank and rods and pistons will fit in the 48 style engine. I suppose you don't get those Merc engines down under though. Theres always ebay.

It should be a F15A but wont know till late this week or next when the rain stops so i can get into the yard to have a look, but should be a F15A

8BA engine mods
 

dont forget that if you want to use the 21A disy you wll have to change the camshaft . the waterpumps ase different. there are 3 different pumps for the 8BA . you will need 2 8RT pumps.

I am going to take Tony's advice and leave the engine that is fitted because it runs so their is no real need to change it at the moment
but thanks for the info John

As Keith says, just find one that's not too badly butchered, ie. side rail ends chopped off, reinforcement plates welded on, heavy bumper bar mounts welded to the chassis, etc. All this stuff can be repaired but it's a helluva lot of work, and such chassis will generally have fatigue cracks anyway.

Fortunately most SWB chassis are quite good as they rarely got put to work like the 3 tonners, the exception of course being the FGT, for the sole reason that it had a winch. Without that winch they never would have wound up as yard cranes in sawmills etc, they would have had an easy life as delivery vans like the Sigvans did, and the bodies would never have been chopped.

Anyway good luck with the chassis this week Jason, you'll start making good progress once you have a decent chassis to work with. First step will be to convert it from F15A to FGT, which will be much easier with a FGT chassis to compare. The various differences are covered in post #39 here:

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...?t=1929&page=2

Hopefully you can re-use the winch crossmember, in which case you'll just need another rear crossmember and a set of FGT fishplates. I'm planning to get a batch of these made up so if you like I can include you in and send them up.

Thanks for that Tony you can count me in for the fishplates.
I had a look at prices for the chassis rail and had a look at a rail it must be a ford short wheel base it was fitted with a flathead rails looked the same but it was only two wheel drive i think but the diff and front axle where not blitz it was used to move around a large welding unit so do not know if would be any good being only two wheel drive or if it was a 4x4 and they removed the front diff didnt get any pics but will be checking again when the rail goes away just way to muddy and wet in dalby

Chassis
 

No good to you if it is a F15 4x2 chassis which is completely different.

Thats what i thought it might be too, they told me they had one but i dont think they would know if it hit them in the head, i told them they have a short chev and they recone they had a short ford still their but there mech reconds they dont when i was their the sales guys were at lunch.
might have to look else were

bloody chassis this is going to be a headache
i might have to try Ross Prince and see what he has.