Mike, there is one of those very trailers in my back paddock which belongs to someone else but I'm sure I could borrow it anytime. Especially if I restore it for him :doh:
Tim, I'm glad you are finding this as entertaining as I am in the restoration. :)
David, There was a small piece of the gasket left which told me exactly what they used. It appears to be 1/8 thick x 1-3/4" wide and strengthened with canvas in the rubber. Purely as a gasket and the pieces that I made would have I presume a hollow core rubber glued around the inside to seal off for water. I will do both of those things after painting.
I have made the other door and hinge which is a very solid construction. I had to cut a piece of steel out of some RHS I had as it was the correct thickness but then had to run it though my rollers as it had a curve due its tensility.

I was fortunate to be able to fit the door in my hole punch machine and use the hydraulics to do the rivets cold. I just need to be careful not to put too much pressure or I would destroy it but they pressed very well and I just ground the excess off so they were flush on the underside of the door. I also stamped the number on the hinge as well.

The door that has the repair weld on it was there when I got it but I will do some cosmetic work it to make it look nice. It could have been done during its service of by the farmer, but anyway they now both have doors.

I thought I would share a little tip I have for doing countersink holes. I assume most would drill the shank size hole and then use a bigger drill bit for the countersink. Normal drill bits never do a round hole and always end up with facets and the CS bolts never sit snug. I found that sharpening a reamer which has 4 flutes gave me a perfect round taper and even though I only had Morse Taper reamers, they still fit in my hand drill, well a No2MT anyway

I had to make two sets of plates with pressings in them. Lucky for me I have quite a number of drawings that give me a huge amount of information. Again, my press brake is invaluable.

I was ever so lucky to get a PDF file of 90 or so drawings. They have part numbers but no measurements but I'm certainly not complaining,

Just an update at my progress. Both floors are now complete and replaced and quite a few other little parts as well.

I'm also ready to turn the other one up side down again and fit axles, wheels and suspension.

Nice to see them both finally gaining weight again, Colin!

David

Amazing work and problem solving going on in your shop. Great stuff and thank you for posting the pics and updates.

Yes David it is and very rewarding. James, thanks for your comments.
I have achieved a fair amount in the last couple of days and the photos are of the axle saddles I fabricated.

I need to test fit and drill to suit and make the centre saddles as well.

Axles fitted with the help of my great helper Andrew (+$5) and some paint.

I forgot to resize some pics :confused

I just posted one and the pics were upside down :confused :confused so I had to delete and do again.

I thought I would share this. I'm sure we all know how hard it is to get the axles out without damaging the threads. Previously I always used my portapower chained to the frame which can be dangerous and I just had one pressured up for a couple of days with no movement. After getting a bit impatient I decided to buy a 20ton garage press and I must say, this would have to be the easiest, safest and most effective way of getting them out. I pressed 8 or 9 Yesterday with no damage what so ever and where the porta power did nothing, the press pushed them out with ease. I will also use it for pressing out the floating arm pins as well.
The right tool for the job. :thup2:

Again, great stuff and when the time comes you can use it to press the axles back in.

If everything is cleaned up, the axles should slide in and out by hand. Tightening the nut locks the bearings and spacer and seal tracks etc, up, and makes it a rigid assembly.

Colin. What do the circular covers provide access to on the hull floor?

David

The other side :)

Colin, whats the plan with the colour scheme? One of them would look very snazzy in Caunter Scheme

https://myalbum.com/photo/8bxtJk7o45ym/540.jpg
https://myalbum.com/photo/bvoDMYhnPs1Q/720.jpg

Sorry David, I was just being smart :rolleyes The plates give access to the electrical that is supplied to the turret as per the very informative 97 drawings I have been lucky to aquire.
Hi Chris, as these little tanks had specific names given to them (Wombird and Bowerbat ) oops! no I mean "Wombat" and "Bowerbird" I think I need to keep them as original as I can and paint them as you see there which is Khaki Green No3 All information I have to date is they were the dark green when first brought here and painted with the Aust green after. Great photos by the way!

Fair enough, especially if you have evidence of the original scheme. Doesn't mean i can't hope though...

Not a problem, Colin. The fact you are in such good humour tells me the project is going very well for you. :)

Has much, if anything, of the electricals from either tank survived for you to work with? Be nice if some did, or Vickers maintained some standardization with other Marks with regards to the electrical system.

David

David, unfortunately very little to nothing survived of the electrical system., Again, on Ebay I was lucky to aquire a complete original maintenance book which has wonderful information like the photos shown here. That old saying of never say never' as you just don't know where and when something might just come your way. I have been waiting very patiently for a turret to drop in my lap but I won't hold my breath for one of those. I do have a number of drawings for that part as well. :thup2:
Colin. :)

For your viewing pleasure Colin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpKpNRKUDws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OjUY1Dg_T8

Hi Colin,

Don't you ever sleep??

Here is a photo of one at the Bovington which I had a good look at when we were there in 2009.

Attachment 92356

Regards Rick.

Thanks Ryan, they were excellent viewing. Rick, I could do with a few extra ZZ's but when your on a mission well! you know what I mean :).
I'm about half way into the wheel bogies and what a job :mad: these thing were so seized up. I had to use a lot of heat and sometimes even that didn't work and I had to cut them which I don't like to do but that's life.

The rear bogie system is quite a complicated piece of engineering. It took me all day and part of yesterday just to get one apart and I have three more to do but after doing the first one, I know what to expect. There are woodroffe keys in the rear axle that I never knew until now and unless the sequence of pulling apart are not followed then they will not come off. Not to mention they also where totally seized. I'm doing a few repairs along the way when I see broken or worn parts.
I need to get all my wheels off and down to the rubber man so he can do his thing while I restore the steel work.

colours
 

Searching for the correct British early WW2 colours I found this info from Mike Starmer.

"The following Humbrol mixes, all glossy are extremely close to the original 1930 swatches"

Light green G5 = 11 parts 38 green + 3 parts 10 brown

Khaki green G3 = 8 parts 2 green +11 parts 10 brown

Dark green G4 = 10 parts 3 green + 5 parts 10 brown + 1 part 33 black