Great
 

Richard,

Great news. I trial fitted a CMP tank, which had the fittings in the wrong locations, and it fit nicely. The dimensions are 10" x 12" x 32". The brackets would be most welcome as well. I have sourced a second tank, thanks to some fine networking with MLU members. MLU has a serious number of knowledgeable and generous members.

Sounds as if we'll be doing some trading. Thanks again, Peter. Won't even matter if I end up with two tanks for the same side. I've already got a fine example of how to convert one.

Novel solution
 

Folks,

Removed the tail piece today, to expose a strange looking radiator. I can just hear the Ford engineers when they were mocking up the first units. "Need to provide a way to hand crank the engine? Radiator in the way? Just go through it!!"

Attachment 64757

Attachment 64758

When I had a rad made for my Fox I requested the same 'hole for the crank'. The guy was so iffy (I'll do it but at a price) I gave up. Turns out the core he chose was just short of the real thing so I am able to slide the crank under (rather than through) the rad. All is good!!!

Engineering marvel and artwork all in one.
Cool looking rad with the oil cooler. Bet that would be an expensive rebuild. Lets hope for the best.
Your project makes me envious, I love it.

I did see another rad one time that had the crank hole in the lower rad tank. Might have been my old halftrack, can't remember.

Peter,

It is interesting that there is an oil cooler pipe attached to the front of the radiator. Mine does not have that luxury. Here is mine from the back showing the shroud. I presume that yours has that as well. My radiator was in perfect condition but had been removed from the hull in 1958. The local radiator chap only charged me A$125.00 for a full strip down, tube clean and reassemble. It was like a new one inside.

Regards Rick.
Attachment 64759

Wow
 

Rick,

Same radiator shroud as on yours. I fear the radiator is not the pristine version that you have. One positive surprise is the condition of the interior of the voltage regulator and associated parts. Not bad for 70 year old parts.

Attachment 64798

Attachment 64799

Peter, you can edit your post. To change the name to Rick, have a look at (any of) your personal post. At the bottom are three options Reply and Edit and Quote. Hit edit and change what you want. Then hit save. It's easy!

....I wish I had a Lynx :(

Thanks
 

Lynn,

Thanks, I'll get the hang of this yet.

Peter

Peter, your shroud is different to mine. I do not have that 2" flat piece around the opening.

My voltage reg was as good as yours too. Don't forget that the Lynx runs on 12 Volts. Unusual for a Ford during WWII. Actually there are two other voltages as well. 6volts for the gauges and 4.5 volts for the coil.

Regards Rick.

Motivation
 

Rick,

Thanks for the "heads up". I've got copies of the Work shop Manual and Illustrated Parts List, thanks to Brian Asbury. Steep learning curve, but time in the garage has to be the best therapy available. Couldn't help but compare the original generator to a NOS spare that I inherited from Giorgio. Pulley swap and I should be in the running. Just wonder what year it will be when I start putting it back together. I welcome all the advice that I've been receiving, from welding to electrical.

Peter

Attachment 64827

..............
 

[QUOTE=Peter Duggan;194047]Just wonder what year it will be when I start putting it back together. I welcome all the advice that I've been receiving, from welding to electrical.

Peter


Peter...

If I lived closer - it would be on the road sooner......more than willing to help.

Good luck with this.

f

A project such as this, or any for that matter can be very overwhelming, especially for anyone new to the hobby.
I was encouraged from early on with my first MV restoration to consider the following;
Research, read, ask questions, visit others, check out like vehicles, take pictures, measurements, notes. Buy lots of Ziploc bags, a marker and some totes or sturdy cardboard boxes. Get shelving or have a storage area.
Buy whatever parts happen upon you along the way, set them aside for later.
Have patience, sometimes it is worth the wait.
Don't look at the project as a whole; divide it up into bite sized pieces. If you take an approach like this it is easier to comprehend and to avoid discouragement. On any project, I would divide it up into the main sub assemblies and then dissect each sub assembly as it's own project.
The hull, frame, engine, transmission, suspension, axles, brakes etc.
As you progress with each sub assembly set it aside on the shelf and go to the next. Before you know it there are a lot less little pieces left and only a few large ones to re-assemble.
On a project like this Lynx, don't take shortcuts- do it right the first time. It is a rare beast that deserves a top notch restoration. This will not only do justice to such a wonderful piece and make a great impression but will also add overall value once completed.
P.S. if it doesn't work out let me know and I'll gladly take it off your hands.. :p

Factory paint

Great pic Michael. Those would be Lynx 1 I think? They all have the armoured type roof.

Progress
 

Chris,

Thanks for the good advice. I like to think that I am making slow but steady progress and the pile of restored/NOS and acquired parts is growing. Goal for this year is to dismantle the vehicle and have the frame restored for a sound basis for next year. I'm in it for the long term, but do spend some garage time day dreaming about what it will look like some day.

Peter
Attachment 64834

Attachment 64835

Great photo, Michael. There are approximately 140 in that photo plus some extra chassis. The question is now, was this the Ford or the International Harvester factory? The chassis were built by Ford and the Hull by IHC.

Was it easier to move the chassis from Ford to International Harvester or the other way around. Where did the final fitting take place?

Attachment 64836


Attachment 64837

Regards Rick.

Questions and more
 

Good day today, removed the engine. Found a tag wired to the rear axle and I've attached a picture. Does this mean the rear assembly was replaced some time during it's career? The speedometer is past resurrection (thanks to Dirk L., I've got a NOS one on the way). But it appears to show over 24,000 miles on the odometer, which for this type of vehicle seems quite high. The oral history I got with the vehicle is that after the Canadian troops left Italy, it was in turn given to the Italian army and ultimately the Italian police, before it was scrapped in the mid seventies. Is there any practical manner of researching the history of a Lynx based solely on the hull number?

Thanks, Peter

Attachment 64844

Attachment 64845

ID Tag
 

Hi Peter, I see you making good progress. The tag is the standard diff identification tag. C29SR , I think this means 1942, scout car , rear engined.
The 4000 B is the part number for the diff. In this case 6.66 to 1 ratio.
Has 640 stamped on the back of the housing, which means 6 teeth pinion and 40 crown wheel . Outside dia. of diff housing will be 14 -7/8'' across. This assembly supplied for service from serial #3000.
The front diff will be tagged 3000 C , if the tag is still there. The gen pulley you are going to swap over, just be careful it is not screwed onto the shaft, some are some are just keyed on, a trap for young
players is to put a puller on a screwed on pulley and smash it to bits, I know I have done it!

Thanks
 

Andrew,

Thanks. I've been receiving lots of great information since I started this thread. The quality of information and sourcing of parts has made my task a lot easier, and is a great motivator. My wife is back from visiting with our kids this weekend, so progress is bound to slow down.

Peter

Peter,

I hope she is like my lovely wife. :thup2:Jill gets out and helps me in the shed all the time. She is a great TA. (technical assistant, not what you first thought. :nono: Well, yes she is that too).

I could not do the work in the Museum or the restoration work without her.
"
During the last couple of weeks leading up to the Corowa Swim-In, Year of the Ford and of WWI", Jill was out in the shed with me until 10.00 or 11.00pm every night, just helping get the Lynx finished.

It was her idea to do the Lynx restoration in time for the "Year of the Ford and of WWI". Unfortunately the transporting vehicle broke down and we went modern and picked up our WWI Albion from the Bandiana Museum. :thup:

Regards Rick

Partners
 

Rick,

You are a lucky man. I've enjoyed 42 years of a great marriage and Marie is quite supportive of my "projects", but in all that time I've never seen her with a tool of any description.

Peter

Latest
 

I'm starting to recognize that the most rewarding part of this restoration is the people that you meet and deal with along the way. I had the good fortune (thanks Doug and Rob) to meet Stu Robertson. This gentleman has restored THREE Lynx's, the one that is in the museum in Shilo, Manitoba and two that were exported to collectors in Europe. Not only did he solve my fuel tank quandary, but I walked (staggered) away with a load of NOS parts !! I'm looking forward to the next time that I can meet with Stu and hear more of his CMP stories.

I've attached a picture of the shrinking Lynx and one of the engine block number. Can anyone out there help me decipher the number? I was also able to remove and label all the electrical looms without cutting a single wire.


Attachment 64876

Attachment 64877

Attachment 64878

Front axle
 

Andrew,

You were right about the front axle. Here is a picture of the front tag. This exercise is like a treasure hunt.

PeterAttachment 65195

Good day
 

Weather was poor so I got to spend the day in the garage. It's a cruel world. Got most of the crew compartment cleaned out and removed the front nose armour. Very pleased with the overall condition of the mechanical components.


Attachment 65196

I need to echo the advice about plenty of storage totes, and want to add one lesson of my own. Get a stationary supplier's attention and find a hundred or two paper hang tags. Either on strings or wires, when you take something off, put a part name, stock number, condition and source in some form of recognizable shorthand (NOS, TO - Take Off -, used, etc). When I've acquired parts from outsiders, I tend to forget some of the details. With tags, I don't have to remember everything, and I can concentrate on the more important learning.

This is not my slave cable, but it shows a tag that identifies exactly what the piece is.

Getting there
 

Another good day in the garage. Spring and yard work is starting to crimp my time in the garage. Made some nice progress and the more of the drivetrain that I expose, the better it looks.


Attachment 65338

Attachment 65339

Attachment 65340

Peter:

Terrific project! Enjoy the journey!

Lynx42:

In the overall scheme of things, IHC was probably considered a sub contractor for the Lynx hull assemblies, which would have been delivered to Fords assembly plant for mating with the chassis production. The background row of vehicles in the photo posted by Michael are all completed and on their wheels. That would suggest a compound at the Ford Plant. Hard to tell if the vehicles in the foreground are complete, or just hulls. They are certainly very precisely lined up and very close to each other. If completed vehicles, the Ford Parking Lot Attendants were positively brilliant!

David

When you enlarge the photo wheels are visible on them.

Why David?

Why not take the chassis to the IHC factory. Much easier to move the chassis than completed hulls. If you look at the assembly line photos you will see that the hulls are complete and would not stack very well. The sand channel brackets hang down a bit far for that.

The line up of vehicles are all on wheels so could be at either factory.

The M3A1 White Scout Cars were a similar situation with the chassis shown as complete and moved to a different place for the hulls to be fitted.

Regards Rick.