Hi Lang, yes the engine is the long one, I haven't heard of a 'KEW' engine. The engine number is 8707297
Kevin

Kevin

We need the engine prefix - it "should" be T110 or a P prefix if it is a Plymouth motor. The motor that was originally in it (T110) was 3 7/6 X 4 1/4 giving a displacement of 236.6 cu in. Horsepower would have been around 110/115 I guess. That was a Canadian built motor. The equivalent motor in USA was a DeSoto.

The KEW motor was a long block Chrysler engine built in UK for the British Dodges of the post-war period (built at their factory in Kew and having the letters KEW stamped before the engine number). The KEW motor was the same bore 3 7/16 as the original T110, and could well have been the same motor but with Lucas electrics to provide some measure of British unreliability!

Lang

engine
 

Those Canadian wartime engines usually have a 3 and 3/8" bore ( 218 or 228 ci ) but the later 3 and 7/16"bore engines (250 ci) will fit in easily . Chrysler had a factory at Kew UK ? Try Vintage power Wagons in the USA

A chap on the HMVF was looking for a head gasket for the same type of truck, I thought it was you but it turns out somebody else in the UK has a similar truck to yours. link http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/29555-dodge-t-110-d60-l13/

Mike

There were many, many combinations of bores and strokes on the Chrysler sixes.

The Canadian wartime 3 7/16 bore engine was 236 cu in not 250 they were produced alongside the 3 3/8 engines all through the war.

I will have a look at the KEW engine or engines to see the stroke/s (they are 3 7/16 bore)

As you say any engine will do but it is nice to have the most power available.

This link has it all.

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/ot.../tengines.html

Lang

bores
 

Going off topic but. The two 1941 Plymouth military utes I had and the 46 Dodge ute, all had the 218 motor 3 and 3/8 bore and 4 and 1/16th stroke from memory.

Some of the various Chrylser 6 blocks have the water pump by-pass hole in the block and some don't, in that latter case the by-pass is external. Be aware of this possible hiccup when ordering a head gasket because you can get stuck with a gasket the is useless.

The mid 1950's Australian sedan based utes ( which are unique ) have a 2 and 1/4 short block like a weapons carrier but with an internal water pump by-pass, the head gaskets do not swap over.

I managed to buy some NOS 218 engine parts from Ralph Provan ,he had a garage out near Doncaster , but that was many years ago.

Lang
The truck is the T110 model, the engine number I quoted is cast on the block with no prefix.
Regards the KEW engines I am in the process of trying to find any specialists/groups for those models over here.
Kevin

Kevin

The number you gave is just a casting number for factory use.

The number we need is stamped on the front left of the block on a raised pad.

T110 is the truck model but is also the engine series for your truck.

Lang

And here are examples of KEW and Plymouth numbers:

More
 

To add to the confusion :thup2:

The 1941 De Soto ute I had, the engine prefix was "SP" from memory . The similar Plymouths were "P" and the Dodge "D" . These utes will be listed in the AWM ARN books as "12 cwt GS Van"

Mike, De Sotos are all beginning "S" 1941 begins S8S and S8C.
With a 3 7/16" bore the stroke was 4 1/2" to get 250 Cu.in.

For those that might want to know:
Plymouth block serials start with (funnily enough) a P, Dodge with a D, De Soto with an S, Chrysler with a C, and U.S. Military trucks, with a T.
I Don't know about the Canadian ones.

If the number includes a star, I think that indicates U.S. manufacture.

On the smaller blocks, the cars had lighter cranks= less counterweights.
These cranks had 4 or 6 bolts to hold the flywheel on. They are also likely to be shorter stroke. The U.S. military Dodges, T 215 / 214 / 223 all had 8 bolts,and were a 4 5/8" stroke, which were better suited to revving hard.

None of this however, helps Kevin. :doh:

Fake Plymouths
 

The wartime 1941 DeSoto and Dodge utes and scarce sedans assembled here with Richards bodywork were actually all Plymouth's in diguise.

The genuine DeSoto as seen in Nth America wasn't sold here. Instead they imported the el cheapo Canadian Plymouth ( probably as CKD ) and re-badged them as DeSoto and Dodge, the front guards and grills are a giveaway. Hence the odd engine prefix "SP" .

My DeSoto ute in 1981 ( cost me $80 ) with the SP 218ci engine , you can see the Plymouth lines in the guards and grill. Why they bothered to re-badge them is beyond me, they could easily sold them all as Plymouths.

I will get back to you once I have the correct info

Lang,
The engine number is T110L 494350
Kevin

Kevin

You have a truck with the original T110 motor.

3 7/16 bore and 4 1/4 stroke = 236.6 cu inch giving around 115hp.

This is around 15hp more than the Weapon Carrier T214/T215 230 cu inch short block motor.

Lang

Hi all,
Bit of an update on progress, the engine has been stripped and will require a full rebuild, unfortunately the old girl has received no basic maintenance, the crank will require a regrind, the bores will need a rebore plus new camshaft bearings will need to be fitted, hopefully we will be able to source the required parts. I dont think the engine has seen antifreeze judging by the amount of rusty crud we have removed so far. The water distribution tube had all but dissolved, thankfully we managed to remove the rusty material with some prodding and poking with various implements, combined with me turning the engine on its end lifting it up and down banging the block onto a lump of wood to dislodge the offending crud, as can be seen in the pictures. Thanks to Jerry for his assistance this morning and to Howard for allowing us to disturb his Sunday morning. I am considering giving the engine block the 'Mollases' treatment to help remove the remaining rust, have any of you tried this method?
The chassis is now coated in a gloss sand ready for 'flattening' before the final matt finish is applied. the chassis needs extending by approx 25" to replace the sections cut off for the tipping conversion (thanks Tom for measuring your truck). The last picture shows a rear pintle hook layout, does anyone know where I may be able to source these items? I can 'get away' with just the two brackets which the spring fits into, I can get a spring manufactured to suit.
I am now in the process of stripping down the rear springs ready to be cleaned and painted, it has been suggested that I grease the leaves to improve the ride being as I wont be carrying any great weight around, I would then cover them with Denso tape to keep the elements out (mainly grit) your views on that method?
I have ordered the material from our local forge to make the replacement cupola for the roof, I will post some pictures of that as it progresses.

Kevin

Kevin

I once drove one of those Dodges on a 300km each way trip. One way loaded and one way empty.

The ride loaded was of course very smooth but the empty ride was also quite good. I personally would not be creating a mess and bandaging springs as I doubt the improvement, if any, in the ride would be worth the effort.

Any empty truck will jolt over a deep pothole due to the sheer strength of the springs not sufficiently bending, no amount of greasing is going to alter this. Most trucks partially overcome this hard empty ride with a secondary helper spring which does not come into play until the load pushes the truck down to engage the helpers on their support brackets.

A bit of research will find evidence that greased springs are detrimental to ride as they rely in friction between the leaves to smooth out the bounce, particularly on the rebound. That is one reason coil springs are unworkable without shock absorbers while leaves still give a reasonable ride.

I would talk to somebody who has actually greased their springs to make sure it is worth the effort.

Lang

I once bought a WC51 that had been restored by a hot rod builder and he had used strips of teflon sheet between all the spring leaves to give a softer ride. The outcome was not what he imagined, haemorrhaged shockers leading to violent bucking on a railway level crossing that nearly threw me off the road on my way home from purchasing the vehicle. I promptly dismantled the springs to remove the teflon and found that one of the centre bolts had sheared off and another was on the way. No doubt due to the teflon.
As regards greasing leaf springs I recall reading a warning in one of the TMs that stated it was not to be done as it would lead to, 'Too lively a spring action', which is exactly what I had with the teflon in the WC51
The mystery to me is that the Dodge ambulances were fitted with greased springs wrapped in sheet metal and they were not the only vehicles to have this feature. Maybe the little difference between laden and unladen weights meant the springs could be more precisely matched to the task.
In the final analysis I would recommend you do what the TM says and nothing more.

David

dodge
 

Yes , was a club member for a while . No names no pack drill :)

Bit of an update, I have sourced another engine from the states, it has the 25" block, engine number T118 117041. The truck resto has stalled at the moment whilst we await certain parts, probably won't have much progress now until the new year.
Lang the link you posted regarding these engines does not show the power output for this engine, do you know what it should be?
Kevin

The T118 was used 41-47.

As with many Chrysler engines it is a muddle and they changed capacity halfway through without altering the engine number. Went from 228 cu in to 236 cu in.

If you are rebuilding measure the bore and stroke to ensure you have the right parts.

It will not be less than 90hp or more than 110hp

Lang

Since you have a long block.......
 

Have you considered looking in the UK or EU for a Dodge M37.... the US model usually had the small block and the Canadian model the long block and since Massey Ferguson was so popular at one time in the UK have you check old MF combines that were powered by the long block but a very desirable 265 cu in. industrial flat head that would bolt in your truck.

Cheers

Hi Bob,
Thanks for your input, I have sourced a 1946 long block motor which is complete and includes another transmission, plus all the ancillaries.
I dint know about the other engine options from the M37 or a combine power plant, I would have thought an engine out of a combine would have clocked up a lot of hours during its life on a farm.

Hours....all depends....
 

Combines are seasonal machines....... only used when the crops are ready. But even with high hours on the clock they tend to be run on a governor at a set speed similar to a tractor....... none of the street stop and go and flooring it a a green light. The industrial flat head was also used in air compressor, irrigation pumps, welders, etc.

The long block, typically referred to as the Canadian block around here is the 237, 251, 265 c.i. and its strength is torque at low RPM its weakness the long connecting rod that will let go at high rpm and come out the side of the block. The shorter block 207 and 230, the American block, has shorter connecting rod and more suitable for street driving with sustained higher rpm.

With your truck gearing the low revving long block is ideal.


Cheers and good luck.