UC Bogie Wheel Casting
 

Universal Carrier Bogie Wheel Casting System for both main bogie wheels and front tensioning wheel. Uses a 2 part epoxy system to form a black, solid, almost indestructable replacement for the traditional rubber tire. I will be bringing the castings to the Acton OMVA show on Saturday. Let me know if you are interested in acquiring this set up or if you have any questions. The complete casting system was manufactured by Stew Robertson.

simple looking setup.
 

So you are selling wheels that have been recast? Or just the casting mold to make our own? I would like to see how this is done with dimensions for the mold. I can't make the show so posting on here would be good for me. I will be needing more road wheels since the few I have that look good are going onto my machine this spring to replace two that flew apart last season. Never can tell how good the old rubber is until you do a road test....

What exactly are you using for the two part epoxy? Do you need to machine the sides once it has hardened or does this shape it perfectly? Post a pic of the finished product?

'Solid' worries me. If solid 'hard' the wheels will chip. If flexible (and durable depending on the right compound) then maybe this would work. The other option is to have rubber 'vulcanized' to original wheels which I understand has been done in Australia and perhaps other places.

Still, very interesting I I'd love to hear more.

Every once in a while, this topic comes up. I have not yet tried it, but I have heard that shops that re-rubber fork-lift truck wheels can apply a fresh rubber to the steel center you bring them.

Anyone actually done that? Results? Cost?

We sent a tired road wheel downtown for vulcanizing. They regularly do the wheels on those massive modern tracked tractors. They took a long time to get it done, and in the end, the estimate of $120 proved to be a little low. It ended up costing us something like $270. While the rubber looked OK, it did not have the taper that a carrier wheel should have, and I think they may have made it a little too large. I'm not sure it would even fit in the suspension.

I ended up getting some really good used wheels that I used, but will try this wheel out on the carrier that we run the most here at the museum and see how it works out. I may have to profile the wheel with a grinder to get a little bit of the taper on the wheel.

I would be interested in the tire mold. The forklift places will know which compound will give the best service.

I believe the material would be a urethane compound. Urethane has both toughness as well as elasticity.
Rob, perhaps the wheel you have could be chucked in a lathe and taper cut?
At any rate, sounds like an expensive proposition.

Stew has been using this type of setup for quite some time, with good results.. I am busy making my own setup here in the UK. Good thing with PU is that you can match any shore hardness.

Does Stew know you are selling his wares btw ?

Hey Richie
I see you are looking after the old guy
Richard and I have talked but I do not have the get up and go to keep doing wheels you also need a machine to remove the old rubber
The wheels that I have done are able to take a beating and just like the Ever ready bunny just keep going
they have taken high speed for 20 miles at a time both on and off pavement and there has been no flaws
:salute:good luck with your sale Richard

Bogie Tire Questions
 

Hi guys, great questions. I have been tied up with income tax filing (ha-ha) and I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.

The Smooth Cast ONYX is a bullet proof material. It is very durable and while not quite soft like rubber, I think it can flex slightly - very slightly. It definitely will take a beating and it won't chip.

The SS form is tapered so the casting has the correct profile. Stew fabricated an insert to fit the cast for the front idler wheel. The trick is to measure the correct volume of Part A and B to fill the mold. Not too much so that it is over flowing the fill port and definitely don't ever mix not enough. You only have 20 minutes to get it mixed and get it in there before it starts to set. Mounting a hammer drill or some other vibrating electrical tool onto the frame so that all the air bubbles can settle out insures a solid casting. Spray on LOTS of mold release EVERYWHERE that there is a steel. The ONYX sticks to everything if there isn't mold release.

I screwed up the wheel in the pictures. I measured weight instead of volume and only has enough material to fill half of the cast. I also didn't vibrate the casting enough nor did I spray enough mold release in. I attempted a 2nd pour and then mixed too much. Had to chip it off to get it out of the cast. Even though I completely messed it up, this wheel would probably work pretty well as is.

The bogie wheel has to be clean, old rubber removed and preferably down to the grooves. Grease nipple should be removed along with the bearings.

Once you are set up and once you pour, it goes very quick.

I am going to bring everything to the Acton show Saturday. I can then respond to inquiries and emails after I have received feedback. Stew - the expert - is going to be there so I will hopefully know more then.

If you have more questions, fire away. I will try and answer as many as I can. Cheers

I used polyurethane and it worked very well. Still going without any sign of chipping or wear. And you can specify how hard to make it. it bears mentioning again, use lots of release agent, mix enough, and be quick about it.

Looks the part.
 

Looks like a good wheel to me. The taper was a nice touch. I have heard of guys doing the wheel then lathing away the sides to get a good taper. I could see myself getting into this wheel making in a few years. If Rob buys it, he might sell it to me once he has done all he needs..... :)