Test fitting conduit and terminal box near the engine rail , can someone tell me if this looks correct I've been working off photos only as there is know detail drawings in the manuals . Also the 1" tee what wires come out of it . I'm not sure



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My Shepherd crook turned up today as well

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Looking good Dale.
Will done

Picked up a nice 1935 horn the other week they are getting hard to find , and it works . I'm on two weeks holidays should have the conduit finished and air scoop fitted . I'm having a wiring harness made up next week then the drivers compartment can be finished off .. I gave the outside upper hull it's final coat of paint to blend it all together yesterday . This Time I up graded to Protec's 342 spraying enamel 30% flat khaki green No 3 much , much , better then the equipment enamel very easy to spray . It looks flat in the flesh but has an egg shell feel to it . Dale




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My LP2 Carrier mirror bracket from Darrin turned up today . This is a real nice peace of engineering well done Darrin . I could not be happier with it , if anyone else needs one , don't miss out . Ps I'll bend my arm as per the template as my carrier is later then Darrin's . Dale


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I've moved along a bit more with conduit layout can some one tell me if this is correct ?? before I add the loom . Dale

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Hi Dale this is the only photo I have and it's not my carrier but it looks like you have it right.

Thanks for the photo Robert it all helps . Today Finished the conduit layout much bigger job then I thought !!! took a long time lots of bending of pipes and climbing in and out of the carrier test fitting each peace , all's good now just need to paint and add the wiring loom hope the photos help others . Dale PS can some one tell me what the two holes are for in the rear bulkhead each side just below where the engine cover goes




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those 2 holes are
 

Dale, those 2 holes are for the engine stabiliser rods. They go between the bell housing and the hull.
7/16" dia

Conduit colour?
 

Dale, I thought I would wait until you had painted and installed your conduit before I asked the question of what finish is the conduit done in?
I was looking at a factory pic and it looks more black than Khaki #3.
Just a thought! :confused

Can some one tell me the thread size in the holes on the solenoid block on the engine rail. I can't find the correct bolt so need to clean out thread ? Dale

Dale the threads are going to be BA, which is why you are having trouble finding bolts to fit.
I think all the LP2 and LP2A carrier theads, smaller than 5/16 dia. are all BA. Lets see what the others say?

Agree with you Lynn, OBA or BA and other threads that are not common these days. There are also whitworth in there as well.

Most can be taped out to a SAE thread that is common.

In Dales case, 1/4 SAE for this example

Darrin, Not so sure about the Whitworth (UNC, yes. As all the larger carrier specific ones are UNF) Yes there are UNC threads in Ford built components (Engine ,gearbox, diff assy's etc.)

Splitting hairs really as unc and whitworth are all the same tpi except 1/2"

Is the solenoid to starter lead , RED or BLACK ? also is it 31 inches long where can I buy the tar impregnated cover to protect it . Dale

Starter Lead
 

The original lead is black. When I have used NOS conduit and lead as this is how it comes from the maker, I have sweated off the terminals and replace the lead with a modern equivalent 2 inches longer and re-soldered the terminals back on. This is because the 70 year old lead is stiff as a board and hard to bend up to the terminals on the solenoid, and the extra 2 inches makes this also more achievable. You can also use black heat shrink on the ends.

Vintage Wiring Harness, Ringwood Vic, have a lot of wiring items and the outer fabric conduit that is impregnated with black stuff (don't know if they still use tar these days).

http://www.vinwire.com.au/

From a maintainability point of view, I would use red for positive cables and black for negative cables. As suggested, heat shrink can cover the ends.

I would make the cables to suit, don't go off the parts book. Often during the war, materials were in short supply so they skimped where they could. Now days a couple of extra inches will be useful.....

Thanks Darrin and Andrew . Darrin any chance you could measure yours as my engine is off site . Dale

My positive cable is 33" to 34" long.
It is easier to hide extra length than to find the required length.
I have 8mm eyelets crimped on the end.
I have also used fabric braid inside the metal conduit for this cable as I never want to have an electrical issue and have to re-do work.

Started on the wiring today 35 o in the shed not the best weather to do it . This was the most frustrating part of my restoration so far hat to do it twice to get it through the conduit , hard work because some wires go to dash other go to reg the rest to solenoid any way lots of sweat and tears but it's now done . Ended up with 9 wires to dash . 5 to reg . 3 to solenoid hope this is correct ?
Dale



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Conduit and wiring finished today glad that job's done




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I had a couple of hours spare this afternoon so I tested out for the first time my new gantry crane and lifted the air scoop in , now it looks like a carrier





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Progress
 

Looking great, Dale!

Agree with Keith on that!

Have you decided on markings?

Mike

Thanks Keith and Mike . I'm happy with the way she is turning out so far , lots of help from this forum . Euan and Darrin have been great with parts, info and photos . Mike if you can find some history or marking that would suit my number that would be great . Dale

Dale,

I've got nothing of note on that registration, so I suppose unless someone else comes up with something, then the choice of timing ('42 onwards) and an Australian-based unit is yours to make.

Maybe a Victorian-based unit like the AFV School, or leave it with just the ARN and bridge marking and says its at 1COD Bandiana 'in storage', and you only get it out for scheduled service and test runs!

Mike

Over the last couple of days I've cut out and set up all the seats in the carrier . Big thanks to Darrin and Mick to show the way with brackets and sizes and layouts . Should have them covered in the next couple of weeks .





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Before I drill the second bolt hole in the uni joint I've test fitted the gear linkage . Can some one tell me if this looks correct ? When gear change lever is over towards the linkage cover guard does the rear gear change knob look at the correct angle near the engine rail

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This photo shows gear lever straight up and down

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Here's an update on my carrier , not much time as work is flat out with holiday makers here in Port . I did find some time to do all the seats two rainy days we had , I took advice from Darrin , Mick and Euan . I used HD foam 1' 1/2 inch thick for back rests with 12mm ply this works well and lets the drivers tool box open , 3 inch for seats and then folded the corners and stapled to the ply base . I'm 6'4 and skinny I still can sit in drivers seat and uses all controls





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Rear end is all finished


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My NOS mirror turned up the other day . can't believe how good it looks . The paint is very close to my colour


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Beautiful work, Dale. Congratulations!

Are you going to put your feet up for a while when finally done and enjoy your efforts for a bit. or has a little voice in the back of your head already started nattering at you about 'a next project'?

David

Very nice, da*n that is a good looking carrier :thup2: :kangaroo

I had a little bit of spare time over the last couple of days to sandblast tidy up and paint khaki green no 3 on my flare box . I will paint the red white and green on the lid in the next couple of days . Thanks to Euan and Darrin for their photos

PS thanks for your comments David and Lance .. My carrier is at a good stage now as I'm not going backward to go forward , each time I add a part it for good . I have had lots of help from MLU members as I'm not very mechanical minded I hope my post help other Aussie carrier builders . Dale



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