Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild
 

This is my first rebuild. Will need to replace many, many bits!
I will post new pictures as progress is made. Expect I will be spending a fortune on sand-blasting and welding. About now I really wish I had learnt to weld (properly that is). Always on the lookout for Ford 'donor' vehicles or suitable parts. Hint Hint...

Here's the story so far.....

Bought the Blitz over Ebay, from a very nice couple in Ipswich, QLD. Wasn't intending to bid initially but decided it was worth a punt just for some parts. Especially doors, guards, and nose panel. As you would expect, nothing is in showroom condition, but with patience and money, anything is possible.

Had initially intended to scrap the chassis, but that was before I took a closer look. Though it has been shortened, it was rather well done and did not show any signs of rust through. The wheels/tyres and axles are off a later model Dodge or similar. They will be going to anyone who can use them, but will stay with the vehicle for now, for convenience of mobility.

The first photos are as it was when we got it home.
Attachment 37984 Attachment 37985
The second two are later the same day.
Attachment 37986 Attachment 37987
My boy and I did actually get further pieces removed later still, but my hands were far too dirty to be allowed use of my wifes camera!

More photos to follow.

Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild
 

These are some of the parts which will need attention.
Attachment 37988 Attachment 37989 Attachment 37990

I must admit I did get a little excited when I removed the cab rear panel, and underneath the "anti-squeak" was original paint that had not seen the light of day on over 65 years.
Attachment 37991

Ohh, before I forget. Couldn't see how to remove the steering column. Can anyone advise me how this is done, please? Am really praying that it doesn't require removal of the nut holding the steering wheel on. That nut is the MOST rusted nut I ever saw (most rusted without falling apart, that is)

Whoops!
 

Just realised that the photo "R) upper guard rust" is wrong.
Actually L) upper guard :doh:

Minor Progress 23/10/2010
 

Got a few more small bits off the truck today.

WD40'd the headlight bowls last week, and they came away without issue.....this week. Most parts will be going to a local sandblaster, but thought I would blast some of the most rusted parts just to see how bad they were. Hmmmmm...apart from getting VERY covered with black blast medium, discoverd two small areas of rust-through. Wouldn't expect trouble with repair though.

N.B: Harry Connick Jnr would NOT have approved of my 'black face' look today.

Also tried to remove bolts and screws from drivers door (door removed from truck last weekend). Same WD40 treatment, but much less joy than I had hoped for with the door hinge bolts and lock screws!
Had to resort to grinder to get lock handle plate off. Was very careful NOT to damage plate, but now need set of 'easy-outs' and careful drilling to remedy.

Several areas of metal fatigue were evident on door itself, but once again, should be easy to repair with brazing. About to phone my Father-in-law. He is a rather good welder :-)

Why is it there is ALWAYS ONE BOLT that refuses to come out?
Both door hinges have one bolt EACH that will not budge, and if I cant get them free, I will concede defeat and leave them there for the duration. :giveup

Also removed the vents in nose panel. Easy job to do, UNLESS there is that one bolt again. Yep, thats right, was one in each of the vents hinges. No match for the grinder though. :thup2:

Am keeping all the mutilated bolts and screws so I know replacements will be exact match.

One more thing.

I am keen to buy a 'basket case' or damaged nose panel, to use as donor steel for several rust repairs in various spots. Would rather use original shape and gauge of steel for repairs.

If you are in south east Queensland, and have a suitable (stuffed) nose panel you will sell, send me a message!

Pictures to follow :cheers:.

Tony B.

Restoration
 

Thanks for sharing your pictures and story Tony!

The floor plate reveals you have a Canadian build (as opposed to an Australian version) of the F15.
To remove steering column means removing the driver's toeplate with all it's captive nuts which can be a pain. The nut holding the steering wheel on is UNF and thin which is a bit of a problem you'll have to tackle sooner or later.
Always fun to find clean original paint under everything.

Keep the pics and story coming, I'm sure there are lots of us waiting for the next instalment.
:note: :cheers:

Thanks for the info, Keith!
 

In one way, I guess i'm blessed, as there was no foot plate on the truck when I got it. On the other hand, that means I gotta buy/make one later.

I have applying WD40 to steering wheel nut again today, and will buy a suitable socket?, spanner?, or wrench? to do the job next weekend.

The steering wheel is not too bad, so I will be REALLY careful with removal of the wheel nut.

On a slightly different note, I had a visit today from a gentleman who really knows his stuff with Blitz restorations. He rebuilt a Ford GT which I have seen locally. He pointed me in the right direction for a couple of people who have Blitz wrecks which might be available for purchase. Incredibly, one fellow is right here in Gympie, on a road I have been down many, many times but never saw an intact but rusting Blitz sitting RIGHT IN VIEW, though you wouldn't see it under the large scruffy tree and huge weeds. Until today that is. I went for a drive, followed the directions, and BUGGER ME, there it was!!!!!! I plan to visit in next couple of days.

Mental Note: Must ask my wife to drive more.......so I can just scan the properties for goodies :teach:

Thanks again Keith,

Stay tuned.

Stubborn Bolts
 

Hi Tony - WD40 is pretty useless. I have found that applying diesel and heat from an oxy plus tapping with a hammer will quite often shift that rust. I'll have a look in my shed in the morning as I know I have a floor plate. Just have to see if it is Ford or Chev. The other thing with sand blasting. Quite often numbers and unit signs are hidden under layers of paint. A gentle wet rub quite often reveals them.

Bob

Thanks Bob!
 

Thanks for the tip on diesel. I will get some tomorrow. I bought a small gas torch last week, just in case.

If you don't hear from me for a while......it just means the future burns are healing!

And a big thanks for looking for floor plate, too. :thup2:

Will let you know how I go:cheers:

Tony Baker

What have I started?
 

Not much Blitz work got done last weekend. Here's why:-

I had been given a 'tip off' by a fellow Blitz restorer, regarding a chap who may have some of the parts I am needing.

The chap in question was contacted by me earlier in the week, and he told me that he recently had a sale on his property, when several intact Blitz trucks had been sold! He did however still have "a few bits" which may be of interest.

I arranged a time, and went there on Saturday afternoon. The fellow still had at least 6 partially complete vehicles (many of them Ford), and numerous Blitz parts spread around his property. A considerable amount of the parts I need could be sourced from this farm alone, provided I can manage removal from the vehicles.

At one stage during our meander through the acres, I pointed to a Ford radiator in very usable condition and asked about price. In reply he said he would need to check the value it would bring in SCRAP metal, and he said "after all theres no point in me selling it for $20.00, if it's worth $35.00 for scrap". He nearly floored me with his next comment that "I have a better one that you can buy, in the shed".

Since returning home, and once the drooling stopped, I have been making a shopping list for my return trip in coming weeks.

As if that wasn't enough, I had a phone call this afternoon from a fellow about 2-3hrs away who had heard I was looking for Ford Blitz parts. This guy has a complete F60L which he intended to restore but lost interest. He has two engines (one rebuilt some time ago), more doors than any Blitz needs (4 or 5 he thought), 20in wheels and even ORIGINAL DOOR CURTAINS and wheel carrier with toolbox.

My wife is by no means impressed with my plan to visit in next couple of weeks to inspect, with view to purchase. Only snag might be cost of tilt-tray hire to get it back home. I also have a nasty feeling that this truck might be TOO GOOD for me to afford without organ donation!

Nice work
 

Looking forward to hearing and seeing this story unfold. :thup2:

Buy the lot
 

With the way CMP parts are disappearing and the prices keep going up..impress the wife and tell her you are buying your pension plan..after all the prices are steadily rising along with the price of gold..
Buy it all all the stuff you can..sell or mortgage the kids..they are overhead anyway and tell her that you are acting business like..That will really impress her.
Waiting results..
Well done.

:sheep: :kangaroo:remember :drunk:

I agree with Alex, buy all you can. Why? Because it may disappear over time and you'll kick yourself for not getting it earlier. Been there and unfortunately done that.
And yes, get your wife to do more driving and take the binoculars with you! You'll find plenty.
Only one problem with buying all you can. Your dreams of king of the hill soon turn into dreams of empire! All good fun though.
Looking forward to see your story continue.
Ryan

Buying all you can
 

There's more to add - I agree, get it while you can because there will be someone else down the track who will be glad to buy something you rescued but don't need. The other caveat is your wife, however tolerant she may be when you acquire things will soon be asking when you're going to get rid of "all that junk" and when she can have what she thought of as her undercover parking space back.
For those of you who haven't seen this before, here is some essential advice from Vernco: How to buy things without being caught

Window Pair - What should I expect to pay????
 

Anyone have any thoughts on how much I should expect to pay for a set of good Ford Blitz window frames with glass?

Are Ford and Chevrolet windows interchangable?

I finally got to see a fellow today that I have been trying to catch home for some time, and he has found a set of windows with glass still intact, and also an excellent Ford grille with NIL DAMAGE OR RUST!!!!

I am wondering how much to offer him.

Plan to go again this Sunday to look over a wreck in his paddock that may have some useful bits.

Tony :note:

Window frames
 

Not sure what you should pay, but the frames are interchangeable. By far the harder to find in good condition are Australian made Chev frames which have a curved profile and are far more susceptible to rusting through. They also have two diecast arms on the inner lower part to keep them closed. Either way definitely worth saving.

Last Weekend
 

Went to look at a couple of 'wrecks' last Sunday. They may be of use for limited small parts, but largely rusted out. Cabs completely rotten, chassis intact but all useable parts would be VERY difficult to remove due to location of truck and extent of deterioration from being outdoors for many, many years.

No joy with them at all. :bang:

On a more curious tangent......can anyone advise if these wheel cylinder kits are suitable for Ford Blitz? It seems the only way to examine contents is to break the lid or side of tube. The cans are almost too neat to ruin. I'm inclined to just keep them for their novelty value!
Attachment 38299

Self explanatory. I finally got a Manual! :thup2:
Attachment 38300

I had planned to take some smaller parts of Cab to sandblasters today, but weather not suitable. Instead I have been shopping for quotes to have new workshop built, so I can work on the truck without fearing the sun or rain (or burglars). Have decided on 6m x 9m, with 3m height. For those in imperial measurements, thats 20ft x 30ft x 10ft height. One third will be walled off from the rest, to be used as spray and sandblasting booth. Workshop will not be built until after New Year, so I will concentrate on refurbishing small pieces which can be stored in my existing shed for now. Additionally, will be gathering some of the spares I have found from recent travels.


Tony

Re. Last Weekend
 

Hi Tony - I would leave the containers intact as in that state they are quite collectable. Go for a bigger shed although no matter what size you get they always seem to fill up very quickly. You did well on the manual.

Bob

Sheds
 

Hi Tony,
Heres a link to a shed builder. His site is one of the few with prices. I only use it as a guide to get some idea of there value.
Graeme

http://www.shedsonline.com.au/

Agree
 

I agree with Bob 100% ..Bigger shed and leave the canned parts intact..worth much more and the rubber seals in the can have deteriorated over time so would be useless anyway ..leave the cans intact..
:sheep: :drunk: :kangaroo

Graeme,

I did look at "shedsonline" a week ago, but they couldn't accomodate all of my specifications (construction method and wind rating, etc). It's easier for me to deal with local company where I can negotiate in person and view examples of their work. I also wanted added strength of frame for one area where I will be using frame to hoist parts. I would have prefered larger size shed, but finances overrule this.

Tony

YOU'LL BE SORRY.

:D Bob

Sandblasting Parts
 

Took some small parts to sandblaster yesterday. They came back a bit lighter!
Headlight bowls were the worst. I was aware of two small rust spot holes, but wasn't entirely ready for what I saw when blasting was complete.
They quite resembled a sieve. Fortunately, I had planned for this and had a plan to remedy.

Examples of the extent of rust damage.
Attachment 38328 Attachment 38329

Using a tar based tape, the rear of bowls were treated with a layer over majority of the portion which will be largely unseen under the nose panel. While this is NOT my prefered method, I did not want to throw them away, even though I may have access to buy replacements. The tape will be sprayed with a 'stone guard' compound that should make the tape invisible. I will have to buy special spray gun for this step. Alternatively, a brush-on underbody compound would achieve the same result with less expense.
Attachment 38330 Attachment 38331

You may notice areas of black already visible around edges. This is a bitumin based blade putty that actually dries to be tack free. I will be using this on areas I cannot apply the tape (eg: areas where I do not want to add extra thickness, so that installation will not be affected. It can also be used on inside of bowls because it can be painted without problems.

This is a quick before / after view.
Attachment 38332

Will be purchasing the material for final step today and pictures of finished product will be posted when I can.

Tony

Shed
 

When you design it, and site it, with Bob's words in mind, allow for the forthcoming extention.

Re: Shed
 

Thats exactly what I have in mind. No money yet, but extensions planned when $$$$ are available.

Guess I could fake my own death for the insurance money. I've only got third party though!

Tony

blasting
 

instead of grit try soda, much less damage, if you want to salvage the h/ light buckets have them galvanized then solder up the holes. good luck with the shed, no room for the odd spare part and the project.

shed
 

I recently finished my shed, a 11mx15m one and all I can say is that I'm already thinking of extensions which luckily I planned for.
Bloody Blitz's!

Sheds, Sandblasting, and Todays Events!!!!!
 

Hi Folks,

I have just now returned from a >200km shopping trip. Brought back a good Ford bumper, 2x headlights (complete with the trims) and a drivers side step which actually has the battery carrier still intact, though I will be using this carrier as pattern for new one. The step itself is far better than mine which was a bit chewy and needed some repair. I would have brought back a very good drivers seat and bumper shackles but I ran out of daylight before I could remove them! Whole lot cost me $50.00 and 2hrs of my time, helping to put a Nissan engine back together.

Re sandbalsting VS soda: there is a place in town that does do soda blasting, but I didn't get good 'vibes' when I contacted them. "It's just the vibe". I do plan to trial something with them and see what happens. Maybe something that I can easily replace. On the other hand, the engineering works that has done my sandblasting so far has treated me very well with both price and quality. They currently have my two mudguard front bits for repairing of major rust areas on part that was under the nose panel. The manager of the engineering company is restoring a 1942 "lendlease" Chevrolet truck, so he knows how important quality is, and is quickly learning the standards I expect. P.S: If anyone knows where he can buy a 1942 Chev truck bonnet, he would be elated, as his blew off the tilt tray when he was bringing the Chev home, and was never found!

You guys are begining to make me very nervous about shed size. Remember, its not about size, its how you use it! Besides, I can't afford anything better, at this point in time, but I already have plans for extensions on two sides with 'carport' type awnings which I can build myself, without great expense. You fellows must have more money than me, or have bigger mortgages. Ryan, you're right, BLOODY BLITZ'S, but you know their worth it. It's a special kind of sickness w/o cure, but many rewards.

I plan to start backing off buying parts for a while, until I have the shed built in January. Don't worry, I have some (many) bits put aside for me...........on a kind of lay-by if you will. They will still be there when I want to pick them up..........I think.

Anyway, I will be in Hawaii early December for around 2 weeks, and no point in having stuff laying around the yard while i'm away. If I can sort out international roaming on my phone, I might even post a couple of photos from Pearl Harbour / Arizona memorial. And before anyone laughs and points out the contradiction of lack of finances and oveseas holiday, it has been 20 years since we ventured O.S and is well due :p Besides, there's a family in Somalia who send me $28 a month so I should be O.K.

Thats enough for now. Will post some photos tomorrow, and hope the injury to my L) arm is not so painful by then. I strained it today, hoisting a Blitz bumper into my car (Ford KA-the bubble shaped thing). My wifes car is the good one and she wouldn't appreciate a rusty hulking thing over her seats, despite the tarp around it. I need to keep her onside for sewing the canvas for Blitz seats, and hopefully side curtains. She......er........doesn't know about any of this yet, so just keep it to yourself, OK. :D

Tony B.

Belated update.
 

This is the update which was promised yesterday. Unable to log on for entire day, again.

Further progress with headlights. The ones I had bought Saturday provided useable reflectors, glass and several other small bits. The bowls - totally rotten and useless. Did get a good paint color sample from inside one though.
Attachment 38371 Attachment 38372

I tried to bring up the reflector surface without damage, but was unavoidable as disintegrating original sealer had landed on the surface and marked it badly. Quotes have already started coming in from suitable plating places in Brisbane. Can anyone confirm that these were originally plated in silver, as stated by one quote?
Attachment 38374 Attachment 38373

Also got a side step which was not too bad. It did have battery carrier which could be used as pattern for new one/s. This has now been pulled apart to individual components, ready for drafting of fabrication plan. That's a Ford front bumper in the photo. All these bits cost $50.00, and also included perfectly intact / unrusted seat which I plan to get this weekend (got too dark to find my way back to the truck).
Attachment 38375

Silver plate
 

yes years ogo when I had some headlight relectors plated the electroplater recommended/used silver, he said chrome was to dark
cheers Greg

Far .... far away.....
 

Repro reflectors are available at Mac Auto in Niagara Falls New York.... with twin sockets for parking lights.

..... shipping might be a bitch.... heck you can even get them with halogen bulbs.... 6 or 12 v.


Bob