Stuck!
 

Hi guys,

In the teardown of my F15A,

I cant get the front shell off, all bolts are removed. Including the two underneath, the toeplate around the accellerator, clutch and brake. Can you guys give me a hint? The 2x4 snapped when I lifted the cab (and front clip) .

Is there any dowels as I note in the manual (Ford) MBF1 Section S4 Para 12 States: Attach chain fall and raise front end shell assembly. My question is: Is this necessary or can I just lift/prise it forward?

Figure 12 of the manual shows the Front Shell lifted. Is it that the old rubber seal is sticking the front to the cabin?

I will be happy for any advice as to a solution.
The photos show my progress to getting it off.
Ian

Ian, good luck and perseverance. :thup:

As discussed in our phone chat, Mac's Auto has the cowl webbing seal in rolls listed as part numbers V5010A, V5010B, and V5010C. A thicker, but similar material is also available as V5010D and V5010E.

Stuck! well still but a little closer to unstuck I hope.
 

Thanks Tony,

I have looked at them cunning bolts near the engine, I will have a 'play' on Saturday... thankyou for the link to the body tape.
I was worried that this stuff was an NLA.

More pictures when I get it off & started. Methinks a choice few MLU'ers have undone these front end bolts. I notice Rampart Rivet has done it on a Chev blitz. I have access to such a truck but a Ford it aint.;)

Ian

Did you get that big bolt at the bottom of the rad grill? Mine never had any dowel pins.

The only thing I found was that the nose had to be lifted straight up until it cleared the radiator. I found out part way through that its realy hard to do this by yourself.

webbing
 

All the Ford cab 13s I've pulled apart had rubber seals on the cowls. The floor to cab frame is the place to use the webbing - the lower and upper back parts of the cab and also top of windscreen was rubber too.

Un Stuck!
 

Well there are two tricky little bolts holding on the floor (inside cab), Just a bit of a wiggle over the accellerator ballcrank assembly. Now to start the clean, prime, paint and re-wire.
Keith you are correct (see photos) there is rubber on the top strip & Tony, the bottom is the tar/cloth tape.

Photo 1. The Bolt thread in the hole, and to the left the other bolt came out ok. Bugger! two each side, hidden under the dirt & yuk.

Photo 2. Shows the rubber top strip, 76 years young!

Photo 3. Split front, now to lug back to the garage with my growing cache of restored parts! Also teh black paint was a temporary thing as I was looking for the ARN under four layers of paint and a disk sander attack. Sadly I had to go to the War Memorial and find it there.
I am over uploading photos. 3 hours it took for these!:blink:

Un Stuck!
 

Well there are two tricky little bolts holding on the floor (inside cab), Just a bit of a wiggle over the accellerator bellcrank assembly. Now to start the clean, prime, paint and re-wire.
Keith you are correct (see photos) there is rubber on the top strip & Tony, the bottom is the tar/cloth tape.

Photo 1. The Bolt thread in the hole, and to the left the other bolt came out ok. Bugger! two each side, hidden under the dirt & yuk.

Photo 2. Shows the rubber top strip, 76 years young!

Photo 3. Split front, now to lug back to the garage with my growing cache of restored parts! Also teh black paint was a temporary thing as I was looking for the ARN under four layers of paint and a disk sander attack. Sadly I had to go to the War Memorial and find it there.
I am over uploading photos. 3 hours it took for these!:blink:

Dates
 

Maybe 66 years? ;)

The cloth tape is what was used under the floor. The curved pieces on the sides of the wheel arches I think may have been felt.

66 Years (what's ten years??)
 

Yes,

Keith 66 years.

The curved pieces on wheel arches are bitumen tape, but there is also a rubberised L section there as well.

(Distinctly missing as its disintegrated!)

Photo 1 shows the tape, sorry the rubber L section is on a disk in archive.

I do not think I will be ready for ANZAC Day this year!

Ian

I found that the seam tape used on rubber membrane roof makes a good substitute for this tape. Can generally be gotten from large commercial roofing companies that install the rubber membrane roofs. I've never had to pay much for the stuff comes in rolls 8-10 wide, generally when I tell the guy what I'm using it for (Picture in Pocket Helps) they rummage around and find the end of a roll, last end of a roll was 10" in diameter, price was right, free. This stuff is about 1/8 thick is sticky and will compress when the bolts are tightened down. Also seems to help with noise damping when place on the cab frame before the floor plates are put in place. Only problem is that it tends to gum up the bolts as you tighten them but it seems to protect the treads nicely. I have had some of it in place now for 20 years and it is still pliable.