Voltage regulator
 

When we acquired a C15A, we had the generator rebuild and replace the voltage regulator for and interchange part brand new.


3 Months later the armature of the generator is burn and the rebuilder tell me it on account of the voltage regulator. By the way the rebuider did not charged us for the rebuilding, he did it as a favor same for the actual repair (a good friend)

We did see the amp meter go up to 30 amp at one time.

We are on 12 volts, can someone tell me which part number I should use for the regulator?

We are also seriously thinking to replace the generator by an altenator, but I would like to kept the C15A as original as possible. :confused

Your advise are more than welcome!!!!!!!!!!!

regulator
 

One reason the generator can 'burn out' is the field coils can get hot : the cutout relay ,which is located inside the regulator is supposed to open when the battery voltage becomes higher than the Gene voltage ( this normally happens at engine idle speed ) . If the C/O relay is not releasing , if it remains closed, the battery will discharge through the field coils .. sometimes the heat generated is enought of burn off the insulation on the coils. This may have been your situation .. hard to tell .

If the regulator fails altogether , it can allow a higher voltage ( the gene can produce high volts in a unregulated state ) to get to components , you can blow all the light globes and cook everything . I've seen it happen on an old Ford Thames 800 van.

I am always wary of 60 year old insulation, it's only a thin layer of enamel over the bare copper and anything with layers of fine wires like Ignition coils and voltage regulators are susceptible to shorts internally. With age, the enamel tends to flake off the wires. You see people stuffing around with 60 year old ignition coils and think 'why waste your time '. Put a new one on .
Mike

Coil
 

We also changed the coil and all the sparkplugs wire aswell.

Burn out
 

I have seen a few where the coil, gene and battery etc have been cooked when the relay points stick in the regulator.. they can drop a battery in seconds.. They look just like a set of large contact points and it doesn't hurt to clean them every now and then so they don't stick.. We actually put a match stick in between the points once to drive home after the regulator decided to play silly buggers.. :nono: Not recommended but it can get you home at least.. Likewise some older stuff is pretty darn iffy ..
How many don't like the idea of an alternator.??? Seems the way to go if you don't mind the modern bits..

voltage regultor number?
 

We need a part number for the voltage regulator since we did not keep the replacement number.
This gives us a good lesson.

...Normandy '94 - the regulator of the Fox shut down and the battery exploded.... never seen people get out of an armoured car so quickly :eek:

If original looks are important (plus the benefit of not having to find/make special brackets, fan belts, etc), but you want the 75A output of a 12V Alternator with simple one wire connection, you might consider a Powergen Alternator. Available for Chev or Ford applications. Great idea, but be warned, these are more expensive than a cheap 2nd hand normal Alternator!

End of mission good firing
 

We did installed a 70 Amp. Alternator and I would like to thank all that help us.

original equipment versus alternator
 

On our Militant Mk1 Gun tractor we had the generator blow up and control panel went on fire on way to a show...I put out the fire but kept the engine running until arrival at the show....next morning got a pull start from a matador and got home...replaced the lot with a 24v alternator from a s/h volvo truck...no more problems :thup: regards malcolm