Brake lining question
 

Carrier Brothers,
I am getting ready to take my shoes in to get them relined and my drums cleaned up. Can someone please tell me what thickness material I need, or what was original thickness to a carriers brake shoes?
Thanks,
Stephen DeMocko

Good on you for getting the drums turned before installing new shoes. A scored drum makes for reduced shoe contact, and will not let you use the brakes and steering to full advantage.

According to the manual they are 3/8 thick, 2.75 wide and 12-1/4 long.

Steve
 

If you are turning the drums out, then it would be a good idea to put in a lining that is thicker, by the amount you take out of the drum. the original was a woven lining.Talk to the brake people about the fact that it is low speed (drum to lining) If you get the same place to do all the work (drum turning, supply and fit of linings, they can put on an o/s lining, and grind it to suit your drums, which should give you good functional brakes, right from the start.
Be careful, if you servicing the bisectors (actuators) It is easy to assemble them incorrectly. They appear o.k., but there is hardly any travel.
Clean out the oil drain hole through your back plates.

Despite my providing the thickness to my brake shop, they still used whatever thickness they had handy. Having the shoe linings arc to fit the drums is certainly a necessity. I did mine with a face mask and a disc grinder.

It is getting harder to find shops around here that will turn drums and reline brakes. Seems the standard these days is to simply install "made in china" new drums and rotors, and new shoes and pads on commercial vehicles. Despite all the cries for recycling, nothing is rebuilt.

Lining thickness
 

Hi Rob,

A Surplus dealer that I frequently visit had brake shoes with a filling strip under the lining to compensate for the turning out of the drums. That way you can use the standard brake lining. Seemed like a clever idea to me.

Cheers,

Thanks!
 

Thanks guys this info is exactly what I needed.
Stephen

All good advice here Steve and if you cut..grind..file a chamfer angle on the shoe edge leading edge,you will keep the shoe from hanging up on the release of pressure..
Not sure which edge..??
do both leading and lagging ends of the brake shoe pad to be sure..
As Rob mentioned the mating surfaces curve is most important and the thickness while more is better is not as critical as in your everyday roadster,as the miles and wear that will take place on a CMP now ,used in the Vets parade once a year would take 600 years of driving to wear out...
Keep up the good work and post lots of pictures.
:drunk::remember :thup2: