Fuel tanks
 

A while back I think i was asked to get some dimensions of my tank cant recall i think it may have been Jordan......recently Ben has asked for some reference shots so here goes.

its hard to see but i have numbered the dimensions

1) 11cm

2) 2cm

3) 10cm

4) 3cm

5) 14cm

6) 3cm

7) 29cm

8) 65.4cm

9) 30cm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2169.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2163.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2168.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2165.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2164.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2162.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2161.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2160.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2159.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/DSCF2158.jpg

both breather tubes are 38cm in length. the breather which comes from the filler cap end is 30cm then the 90 deg bend
the breather which comes from the other end travels 24cm then 90 deg bend

the filler hole is ID 5.8cm OD 6.4cm Flange dia 9cm


there are three baffles inside the tank

not sure if this is what you guys were after. the breathers appear to be soldered into a cast peice which is then brazed / bonded onto the top of the tank.

Hi Richard

I think that might have been me. I was looking for some pictures of the brass fittings on the eng of the vent lines.

Richard, Jordan

That's great, just the job. I'm having the bottom drain re cast with makers name and part number when I do the pintles so it would be a good opportunity to do the vent ones at the same time? The more that are interested the more economical it becomes.

Cheers

Ben

Hi Guys
 

Here's some pics. Which carrier has which system? Vent pipes on later MkI*?

Lynn

I thought the earlier carriers had vented tanks and later ones used the pressured system? if i remember correctly FUC 03 has two diagrams, MK1 vented, MK2 pressured. not sure if it's as simple as that and it's not in front of me so i can't be 100% sure i'm even correct.

Ben

The Feb 1943 built MK 1 i have just stripped down had the remains of the vent tubes for the fuel tanks left in.

richard you will rember where the fuel tanks sits after all by the time you have rivetted and painted and all the other jobs etc i will remind you they sit left and right of the rear axle and the speedo drive........... mk3 tanks are a bit longer i think as ive had to alter the front tank stop by trimming a bit out not bu much tho ?

just sum photos i found of mine for you to see think yours were bad mate :blink:

Martyn / Ben
 

The MkIII carrier fuel tanks are the same Capacity (10 gal) as the other carriers, and I think dimensionally the same.
The 1941 (june) print of the Canadian MkI* (early?) only shows the cap with the valve in it (no breather pipes) The parts book said; Do not order TL12464, to order CTL 410 SA. There are two left hand and two right hand tanks listed.
I'm guessing this cap with the ball and valve in it is spark arrestor set up. The Australian carriers have a spark arrestor in them.

The ball valve stops petrol from escaping when traversing steep inclines, also to seal off in event of the Carrier overturning.

Yes Richard
 

I too can state the obvious; The MAIN purpose is to allow air into the tank to stop it collapsing as the fuel is drawn off. BUT... when there is vapour pressure in the tank, does it lift the ball and close the valve? (the 3/4 steel ball weight, would hold back a bit of pressure)
Many carriers were built with the sealed cap, and vent tubes.
Were problems with these the reason for the "valved" caps/ non vented tank design?
Which design came first.
Was the vent pipe design o.k. for northern climates, but unsuitable for the desert theatre?
So many unanswered questions:wacko:

Well, I do not see how it could have been a spark arrestor, that is something you normally get on an exhaust pipe to stop sparks escaping, so I was just pointing out the true purpose of the ball valve, in case you were unaware.

It is doubtfull that vapour pressure would lift the ball enough to close the valve, as it would have to be a surge of pressure, where as vapour would be a slow build up. Only my thoughts though, ;)

I've checked FUC 03. The pictures seem to suggest the MK 1 had the tank pictured in Riche's post, two vents a filler cap and a fuel pick up. The MK 2 picture has vents in the same style as the MK 1 but with an extra fitting towards the middle of the tank. This I assume is the pressure valve!! Don't know how a pressurised system works if it's vented? Or if the cap has a valve what the extra fitting is? the part isn't labelled.

Ben

The mk2 carriers had a gas gauge on them. Thats probably what you think is a pressure valve.

Richard / Ben
 

Richard, after a quick read, the spark arrestor in the Australian carrier tank, is the mesh strainer, not the valve.
The non vented cap should not have the hole that has been drilled in it. I expect that it has been used on a tank with no vent pipes.
Ben the valve is in the cap, and is closed by the movement of the steel ball.

Thanks Lynn, that all makes sense now :thup:

Lynn

My caps are the same as yours (nice filter cones)

I took the bottom fuel drain casting pattern to the foundry today. If anybody needs to make new tanks let me know and I can get some of the drain fittings done at the same time in brass the pattern is same as the original, makers name and TL number. Will be around £7.50 each.

Ben

HI Ben

Is there anyway you could get some of the fittings done up that the vent tubes soldier into. These are the ones that are attached to the tank.

Yes....

I've spoken to Rich about borrowing his so I can make a pattern from that, then we can have them cast, I need them too so it will get done. Having spoken to the foundry today I guess the part will be about the same price £7.50 as the drain fitting.

I'll keep you informed.

Ben

Fantastic. I only need 1 and was comtemplating doing it up in resin. But brass would be much much better.

Silver solder
 

Jordan..
In the refrigeration trade we use a low melting point silver solder,Stay Brite.....You can solder steel to copper..copper to stainless..stainless to stainless..brass to brass to copper ..galvanized to any or all of the above..It takes a special acid flux and has low melting point but is strong like armpit!!
Can be soldered with an iron or Bernzamatic low temp torch..Great around the shop..It has a tensile shear strength of 17,000 pounds so is strong enough for 1000PSI pressure test..as a mater of fact I ran my nitrogen tank up on some joints i did for the hell of it to 1400PSI and they held so If you want I;ll give you a bit to do your own gas tanks..
See you at Bobs BBQ if you can wait..
Or here it is ..The Stay Brite solder kit..
http://www.shorinternational.com/Solders.php