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Suspension work now so easy
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This is my experience with the suspension struts which is open to comment, hope it helps others with this sometimes difficult job :
When you approach a complete one, first you need to chisel off the remains of the split pins, and remove the nuts, first one will come off easy using sockets and short lengths of scaffold tube, heat the second and clamp the shaft, Stilsons or three jaw vice, if it wont come off grind and chisel it off to save the shaft. Usually they seize not fully extended, if you put on a spring clamp like the one in the manual, you are then fighting against the seized spring, if one spring is seized short, put the spring clamp on the fully extended one and wind it in to take the tension off the cup, next knock out the two hinge pin 3/8 bsf bolts and knock out the hinge pin, it will only come out one way (grease nipple relief end is the end the pin will come out). Spring will know drop out complete with shaft. You will not remove a seized spring ball without a press, soak them in release oil for a week, you will need a special clamp to grip the ball to push the shaft through the ball. If you put one in the press with 50 tons on it and it wont move, leave it with 50 tons on it overnight and then apply shock vibration and heat until it 'pops'out. I bought this press in the pics for carrier seized part dismantling but boy does it make putting suspension back together just so easy, just pump overhauled spring assemblies so the springs have a total lenghth of 15", put on the clamp and tension, release pressure and place back in the suspension arms, knock off the spring clamp with a copper mallet, apply nuts with plenty of anti seize grease, split pins in.........job done. One thing is to make sure you put those 3/8" bolts back in before the springs ...... :doh: kev. |
thanks kev i'll know where to send my suspension assemblies if they need a refurb :D no point leaving that nice new press unused.
rick |
Kevin, you should write a book !!!i bet there is a nice loud bang you knock the spring clamps off.
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Rick, Anyone in the carrier community is quite welcome to come and use it.
Shaun, The title of that book would be : 'How to fill up your garden with scrap metal and alienate your neighbours'. Ive got a few rods here stuck solid, with guy falkes night coming up they will be going on the fire!. kevin.................keep those comments coming. |
Kevin the neighbours wont be saying that, but they probably think they live next door to the set of M.A.S.H with the various tents covering WW2 gold (carriers and bits)
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securing
Hi Kevin,
Nice Press! Looks like you might have just enough room to weld something to your spring holder that maybe uses a crossbolt to make sure the spring is retained - I wouldn't trust anyone's life with a cable tie if I could avoid it. Regards Alex |
I was thinking the same...the tarpaulin behind might catch it if it goes back, but who knows at what speed it could come out of there!
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spring retension
Hi, You guys are right, there is alot of stored energy in those springs when compressed, but when the clamp is on it takes some hammering to get it off when the springs laid in the suspension arms.
I want to remove my rear trailing springs with the suspension arms still on the carrier as i suspect the lower balls are seized. Anyone done this before?. I think I can jack up the arms from the floor to compress the springs, apply the clamp and wind the last bit up, I think the rear springs are easier to work on as they asre shorter than the fronts. Hope to do this next week. Also perfected a method of changing carrier wheels (not idler of course) without removing the tracks during this learning curve. kevin. |
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Hey kevin, nice press but not sure its as easy or safe as the correct tool which I made in about 30 mins with some theaded bar, some tube, a welder and some nuts. Plus it goes in the tool box
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Andrew that is the same style tube they use on Mini's to compress the springs.. bit of tube with a flange on then a threaded bar inserted down the middle and a couple of nuts on the end.... excelent bit of kit.... only worry is if the threads in the unit on the vehicle are rotted or damaged... great stuff
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thanks andrew.
I missed that tool completly, is featured in carrier workshop manuals?. I will set to making one of those before doing my rear springs, interesting you only have one set of springs were a universal carrier has an inner set.
thanks for the pics andrew. kevin. |
Hi Kevin. I am not going to be able to take the credit for this, but it was pointed out to me by first of Sean in Florida, thanks, and then Lynn found the original drawing. I have just lent mine today, by coincidence to Ben. It worked a treat for me, and I have to say I am rather proud of my little tool. It was just really easy to work and did the job superbly. As mentioned by Richard, if you have problems with the threads I guess it not a great option though.
sorry forgot to reply to the question about inner springs. The T16 has inner springs on the rear bogies, not the front. I guess this is to stop it rearing up and counter the weight of the engine, box and axle. The photos posted were front units obviously. |
Yes picked up the tool today, thanks for the loan. I'll copy it next week and get it back to you. it's very simple but looks effective. Plus I saw Andrews T16, it's looking great and with any luck will be tearing up the grass in his garden very soon ;-)
Ben |
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