Mb willys jeep tranfer case universal joint end yoke - front
 

Hi Guys

Well it appears I need your help again. I am in the process of replacing the Transfer Case front "Output Shaft Oil Seal" Number "30". Everything was going well. I dropped the exhaust pipe, removed the Front universal shaft. I then took out the Cotter Pin, Number "28" and removed the Companion Flange Nut Number "29". I then started to remove the Transfer Case, Universal Joint End Yoke Number " 26" - ( Front ). That was when I ran into trouble. :bang:

I don't appear to be able to get the Yoke off. I tried using a puller, but nothing moved. I stopped work so I would not cause any damage and decided to seek advice from my fellow MLU friends who may have actually come up against the same problem.

I have attached a couple of photos so you can see what I am doing. I can't see why the yoke just won't come off as I can't see what could be holding it in place. I note there is what appears to be something with teeth but it does not appear to hold anything and is not shown in any of the drawings in my workshop manual.???

I hope someone can assist.

Cheers

Tony :no4:

just a thought.
 

Tony, do you know the history of the box? It may have had a loctite type sealant applied to the spline to seal and this could be giving you some resistance, try a bigger hammer!

Hi Tony,
Try putting your puller back on, and whilst it's all under tension, give a few taps with a hammer. As Euan mentioned it may have been sealed on to stop oil seeping along the splines
Regards
Keith

I will give it a whack
 

Hi Euan and Keith

Thanks for the advice guys, I thought of giving it a whack but was scared I might do some damage. I will try again in the morning and put the puller on nice and tight then give it a whack and see what happens. I take it that it should just pull off.. :fry: :fry:

Cheers

Tony :no4:

Hi Tony,
Yes, the yoke is on a straight splined shaft.
Regards
Keith

Heat...
 

Tony..
That is probably the problem..Use some heat on the yoke ,evenly and quickly all the way around while the puller has tension on it./you may find that you don't even have to tap it ...It will expand enough to pop free..
If it doesn't ..then tap it ..hot and under tension..it will loosen it up.. :drunk:

Tap tap bang
 

Hi Keith - Alex

Thanks for getting back to me.. I will give it a go after breakfast and I hope it pops off easilly. I apreciate the advise from fellow MLU guys, it gives me confidence to attempt a problem.

Cheers :salute:

Tony :no4:

Success at last
 

Hi Guys

Thanks to you all for the advice which I put into practice and the yoke finally surrendered to me. I had a bit of a problem when the puller shot off, after a few alterations and a few good whacks with the hammer I had another go, then after a loud crack the puller started working easier and the yoke came off. The old oil seal was next and the seal puller I purchased made the removal easier. I am now ready to fit the new oil seal and put the whole thing back together. It was suggested I pack the shaft and seal with RTV sillicon before putting the yoke back on, I guess that should solve the problem of the oil leak. :note:

Cheers

Tony :no4:

sillycon
 

a light smear on the outside of the seal as its pushed into the housing is all thats needed. The seal is just that and will do its job if the yoke isn,t damaged or the brg worn causing the shaft to flap about. sealing the splines only requires a small amount of sealant behind the washer before tightening the nut.