Blitz fuel tank switch sucks air
 

Both fuel tanks on my F15 are connected and supply fuel to the engine. However, the left hand fuel tank wasn't getting any fuel to the engine lately. So finally, I figured out by bypassing the fuel tank switch that this switch sucks air. I opened it and there were a lot of scratches which must allow the air to be sucked in. She runs very nice on the right hand tank.

So I was wondering, how you solved that problem? And please don't tell my I should only drive on the right tank :confused Are there any modern replacement parts or NOS fuel tank switches around?

Thanks a lot for your input.

Greetings
Chris

I was just rebuilding one of these valves yesterday from the lynx. It was seized rather than scratched, so it turned out OK.

I used only fine steel wool to clean this one out, polishing both the body and the center valve body (spindle) as well. If your scratching is light, you might get away with the steel wool, but if the scratch is heavier, perhaps a very fine lapping compound between the two, turning by hand at first, or using a slow speed drill if necessary.

On assembly I used a very very thin smear of petroleum jelly rather than reassembling it dry. The fuel will either wash away the jelly in which case the fuel will act as lubricant, or the jelly will remain and do it's job.

I also added a new washer under the spring to replace the bent up one and return the spring to it's full pressure. I should find out this week if the valve rebuild is successful.

I have found instances of this, with two way taps and it does help if you ensure there is a little petrol left in the tank not being used, that way it will not draw air, not likely to draw any fuel from it. Air is easier to draw than fuel.

:)

Hi Richard

Thanks for the hint. Unfortunately, both tanks are full and it happens despite that.

cu
Chris

OK Chris,
Then it is drawing air through the spindle then. I was thinking it might be drawing from the unused tank as in instances from experience. as said previously, lap the taper tap in with a fine paste, like used for cleaning alloys, etc. One well known brand is Solvol Autosol.
Richard

I used valve grinding paste: it comes in various grades from coarse to fine, so start with coarse on a badly scratched spindle, and, as Richard said, lap them together till 'Bearing Blue' leaves no or little sign when the tap is put together and rotated.

I also used a modern rubber 'o' ring when reassembling mine, and it worked OK for years after that. The key seems to be (1) an even, fine fit between the spindle and body and (2) good tension on the spring to keep them tight.

Regards

Mike C

Clarify
 

Chris, not trying to be condesending...but lap means - to grind (finely) the surfaces between the the feul tap and the body of the fuel tap it sits in.

It makes both surfaces sit evenly against each other thus preventing a fuel leak. As Mike has suggested, valve grind paste should work well.

Doing this should provide a pretty good seal. It may still weep a fraction initially but should "Take up" after a while and stop leaking.

Good call, Tony. We take these tasks for granted, I mentioned polishing paste, only to finish off or if the fit was not bad enough to require use of a fine valve grinding paste.

Gday mate
 

And I should have acknowledged your post as well Rich. I think its fair to say you do do a fair bit more of this kind of stuff than me... :thup:

And to answer the other part of your question, Chris, the taps are available NOS from Dirk Leegwater as Ford C11Q-9285 & C011D-9287.

Your F15 would still be under warranty, wouldn't it? :rolleyes

Not sure Tony, I think the Aussie rebuilder only gave a concrete warranty: once it's off the concrete, the warranty expires. Or was that a '12-12' warranty: 12 inches of forward movement or 12 minutes......?? :giveup

Mike C

Maker's Warranty
 

Hi all - all the remedies are what I would have come up with. However this was a Keefy restoration, so what can you say.

:D Bob