Cracked engine block repair question?
 

I have a 43 GPW with a small crack in the engine block just below the distributer, a small amount of coolant leaks from there. Does anyone know of a vendor/ dealer that can repair this in the south western Ontario area? I live near Owen sound. Thank you for any help. :salute:

block crack
 

you should be able to weld this up..we welded up a 12 inch crack in a zil 157 using only 3 cast rods..still running!good luck regards malcolm :cheers:

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You might look into some modern adhesives...

thanks fellas, i am hoping to find someone to weld it up for me. the engine is still running fine, i want to post pictures of the crack but cannot seem to figure this computer stuff out.

how long is the crack and is it in both the water jacket and the oil

if it is not into the oil may be able to help you out The engine would have to come out
a cold peen may work but it is a gamble
it could also be stitched
Stew

Hi Stew, the oil level is not any higher or showing signs of contamination of coolant. just coolant is leaking out slowly after she runs for awhile, i would say the crack is no more than 2 to 3 inches. do you have an e mail address, i can send you pictures.

Elvis this will work! stewlynr@rogers.com
Stew

Two small holes should be drilled at both ends of the crack to stop it from spreading, then stick welded, this is a comon place on GPW blocks as its a thin area. Alot of Gpw blocks that crack in that area will also crack in side the distributer shaft hole,if so this area can be fixed also but will need to be machined out and a sleeve installed, but there will be oil / antifreeze showing on your dip stick or PCV valve if this is the case.
Jason

Stew pics on the way, Jason thank you for the help, i hope there are no more cracks than this.

A crack in that location is a prime candidate for JB weld, or some other form of metal epoxy. Do the little drill holes on the end of the cracks as Jason described, or it will just keep spreading.

If someone is going to weld it, make sure they know what they are doing and have done them before. I have seen guys weld a small crack just to have it crack all around the weld, Then they go to weld those cracks, and a bigger set shows up. By the time they finish chasing their tails, the block is scrapped. I believe the secret, if welding cast, is to preheat the area up to around 400°.

You guys think I just got off the turnip truck
I would not have offered if I had not done it before 45 plus years

you where just a twinle in the old man eyes ! :teach:
Stew

Goodmorning guys :coffee, Stew did you get the pictures i e mailed? thanks. Rob

Rob I got the pictures and I will send an email

Mmmmm, turnips.

Grandpa Stew: I am never too old to learn something new. I know about stitching, but what is this cold peening you talk about?

dO NOT ENTERTAIN WELDING,much easier to stitch the block. To do this you will need a number of unc bolts, two drill bits, one a starter drill and one the right size for the thread tap, a tube of lock tight and of course an electric drill. You drill at the extremity of the crack, cut your thread and screw in the bolt with locktight on thread, cut off the part of the bolt that is sticking out. Now dot punch the new insert on the edge of its shaft and drill the next hole, you will be cutting half way into the first shaft, go all the way along the crack like this. I was taught how to do this 30 years ago when my jeep had a cracked block, I still have the jeep and it only had a slight weep from the stiched crack when I had the head of the block shaved, this was cured by putting some redweld into the radiator.It sounds complicated but it is not and unlike welding it does not harm or distort the rest of the block, John.Also you will need the right size starter tap and finishing tap, it is really quite easy and when you have finished you have the satisfaction of knowing you have fixed the problem yourself.

Rob
There is a special low amp burning stainless rod and low amperage welder that you stich weld with
do it in 1/4 to 3/8 in. welds and peen while warm let cool before the next stich
all preheated to about 200 F
best bet is to use a heat gun to control the temperature
a long slow process but it works
the whole trick to welding cast iron is don"t rush
you are basically peenin the rod into the crack while the cast iron is warm and the crack is opened up
:cheers: Stew

cracked block
 

I have to say again, DO NOT WELD, your cast block is 70 odd years old, if you heat the block up to the temperature required to weld up the crack it will have an adverse effect on the steel on either side of the crack and when the weld cools down it will contract only very slightly nbut this can cause the metal on either side of the crack to itsself crack in time.The stiching method causes no stress to the surrounding metal, can be finished off with a flapper disc and once painted, no sign of the crack. Great scab of welding or brasing looks like shyte and if as you say your enging is a really good one why ruin it by welding. I know this sounds like a rant, but in the last 40 years I have seen too many engines with this scabs of welding. Also you have to pay someone to do the welding whereas you can stich the block yourself. HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH WELDING OR ANY CRAP PUT INTO THE WATER TO BLOCK UP THE CRACK,please take on board what I have said, good luck, John.

cracked block
 

Google, Stiching a cracked engine block,all the info there, please please do not weld, John.

welding
 

I had several GPW engines, which were magnofluxed to see if they were any good. Once we found one that was right it was sent for welding.

It was welded ok, but unfortunetly for me the mechanic assembled the engine wrong.(A neighbour/friend who owned his own business).

After driving with a knocking noise for several years i went to another mechanic and engine shop. They not only found issues with the assembly and the welding but also more block issues.

In the end we stripped the engine and it was sent out to a specialist in welding blocks. They did a fantastic job. All of the holes were filled and redrilled. It looks like a new engine with no sign of any welding.

The GPW blocks are known to crack and some of the blocks had issues even when new. The Willys blocks have a better lifespan.

Unless you are a mechanic yourself, send it off to a professional and get it done right the first time. (I thought i had done that).

Word of mouth is the best source.

It turns out my professional engine rebuilders father worked on Jeep engines in WW2.

Anybody in the Ottawa area should have no issues dealing with West Carleton Automtive. I highly recommend them.

Welding is not an issue, unless not done right.

Eric

yes it is read the google info.John

Guys thank you for the help/info. i will check things out and do the right thing.