Bolt question
 

Will these fit a 43 Chevrolet 216?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120965794887...S:1123&vxp=mtr

Svenn

SVENN,..looks like they fit..you will need this info also,...
http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/headtorque.php

You can get new ones
 

Hi Svenn

You can get new head bolts from sources like http://www.americanclassic.com/asp/d...ype=to&exyear=

Though I have never had to buy new ones, just suggest it as a price gauge.

Cheers Phil

special bolts
 

Thanks guys.

I need to fabricate the two special head bolts for the oil filter bracket so stainless is not an option.

Cheers

Svenn

These critters
 

Hi Svenn

Understand what your doing now making up these critters.

Cheers Phil

Yes Phil- thanks for the picture!! May I use it on the www in my search for these bolts?

Cheers

Svenn

Hi Sven,

Did you find these bolts? do you have a source I'm looking for some

Much regards

Pieter Bergman

I made up a couple in a few minutes.

Put two nuts on the filter bracket bolt and sit them on top of the head bolt. Line up the 3 flats (lay horizontally in a vice is a good way to hold them while you tack) and either braze or weld the head bolt and two nuts together. Remove bracket bolt, dress on sander and there you have it.

Lang

Oil filter bolts
 

Thanks for the info, but don't you get any problems with the strength of the head bolt when you weld it?

Would these do the job?
http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com/smi/description/gmc/GM2104213

They are GMC CCKW. I seem to remember that some of the Chev headbolts are the same as CCKW, but can't remember if they are the short or the long ones.

Alex

Pieter

You do not heat the shank of the bolt. If you are brazing or gas welding probably a good idea to do the two nuts first away from the head bolt then wrap the shank in a wet cloth to do the last join. If you MIG, TIG or stick weld you will still be able to hold the bolt in your hand.

Lang

Hi Phil

I found them at an auction

Hi Pieter

Any chance of a second set? Or part number to try and search under? Im needing a pair as well.

Thanks

Sorry there was only one pair

Could you please note down or do a simple sketch of the dimensions of the bolts?

At the recent OMVA Acton meeting/swapmeet, Gord Yeo presented the Hammond barn with two similar bolts. On first glance they look close but on measuring, there are issues. In the attached photo, the bolts from Gord are the upper ones. When held up against a variety of stovebolt engines (216, 235 and 261) they are too short to clamp the head. so they don't appear to be suitable for use on CMP engines (original or retrofitted). The next question is, what do they fit? I understood Gord to say some of the batch he got had green paint suggesting MV use. When compared to our rusting Ford V8, the Ford studs were 7/16 rather than 1/2 and the segment of the "special" bolt that would clamp the head is in-between the lengths of studs in the Ford block. Ideas about what they were meant to fit are welcome.

The lower bolts in the image came with my C15A project but were not in the 261 engine it came with so I don't guarantee they will fit. When held up against a variety of stovebolt engines (216, 235 and 261) they appear to be a suitable length for securing the cylinder head. But, the elongated hex between the threaded sections isn't long enough to hold the oil filter mounting plate above the cylinder heads I held it up to. The filter mounting plate I have has a profile on the surface that would mount to the head that requires it to sit above the head rather than curving to follow the shape of the side of the head. It was another loose piece so no guarantee it was an original CMP part either. I will try to find the filter plate to get an image so people can comment.

It looks like there were a variety of these two ended bolts made.

Based on overall length, my guess is that the lower bolt / stud (with red paint) is part number 5819675 used after serial no. 384--21499.

The attached image is of a trial done to see whether I thought 2 bolts could be welded head-to-head to make a replica of the specialized bolt. The actual parts were scrap spring u-bolts. For a finished product I would have used a belt grinder rather than an angle grinder for a flatter finish on the weld. The weld area was well grooved for penetration, the weld seems strong although not formally tested and the heat was not enough to even slightly loosen the rust bond of the nuts on the shaft so I doubt it did any harm to the properties of the metal.