Re coring radiators...
 

Anyone know of a good value firm who can re core my radiator ? It's absolutely riddled with holes ! I am also after the older style sprung cap for it so any help would be appreciated.... I take it this rad is an old truck rad rather than a carrier one ?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psa131031f.jpg

Are the new aluminium ones any good?

I constantly see them advertised on ebay, and have wondered if they were worth considering!

I rebuilt a 12 cab Ford about 16 years ago and had to have the rad re-done.
The only salvageable parts were the tanks incl the drain valves.
The company had to build a custom header to match the shape of the tank with the radiused bit to accomodate the fan clearance.
The original was I believe what was called a 4 and one half, that being that there were 4 and and half rows of cooling tubes.
The outside row is tapered on the outside, which was un-doable. The rad shop opted for a more modern larger type tube which offered better cooling.
The rad shop told me to never come back... :p

The aluminium cores are more efficient for cooling but they usually have a shorter lifespan. They also require require you to have corrosion inhibitor in the coolant, which is not necessary in the copper/brass radiators (although worthwhile).

Re coring radiators
 

I took the rad that came with my carrier to the local rad shop.
They quoted me $800.00!
I found another Rad
My complete engine and transmission was only $700.00

Rich, your radiator is not a carrier radiator. It is from a car or light truck.
Your top tank spigots should curve out and down. It is also important that you have the correct bottom spigots (they can come from the bottom tank at 3 different levels)
The top mount is basically flat (not to accept stay rods)
If you are going to have one built, there are some advantages.
You can have one built that will cope with a higher pressure.
You can have a neck fitted to take a modern pressure cap (try finding a good original)
You can have a more efficient rad.
A modern neck and cap is much easier to use than the original (though not original.
if you do spend the $$$($) carefully inspect your fan and fan extension mount stud. I have heard from more than one person who has suffered acute trauma in the fan and radiator department.

I am looking to have one made out of Ally.. Just waiting to get the quote back

I think I paid $500 to $600 to have mine rebuilt custom way back so $800 is probably current.

Rich, here's a pic of one.

Man those rads are works of art. I love just looking at the curves and lines

Andrew
Precisely whys rad shop told me to go away and never come back!
There is a ton of work to rebuild one of these.

I always have the rad recorded on any rebuild I do . The carrier rads are normally £500 with about a 3 day turn around .

Shaun, who did yours for you ?

radiator variations
 

So Lynn

What is the difference between an LP2 radiator and a UC apart from the filler cap details?
(I know the Ford CMP truck Radiators are similar except for the bottom outlets)
Rob

Hi Rob, The LP2 (and 2a) have the bottom spigots coming from the corner of the bottom tank (they are the middle option, not from the bottom or the back of the bottom tank. As you can see, the riveted carriers have the spigots coming from the rear of the tank.
The LP2 uses the separate pressed, commercial fan shroud, whereas the riveted carriers have an air dam as part of the side plates, which are notched to fit around the lower engine cover frame rails. They have been cut from the radiator in the pics I posted.
The fan shroud for these carriers is a three piece carrier specific shroud ( in addition to the pieces inside the forward engine bed rails)
The LP2 has short straight top spigots while the other carriers have the curved down ones.
As far as I know the LP2s all have the tropical radiators (with the extra part row of tubes at the front) I think the riveted carriers can be either or.
The riveted carriers have a bellows type pressure cap (any one got a spare?) while the Australasian carriers have an adjustable pressure valve in the overflow tube.
I cannot recall the details of the LP2 top mount, but the Northern hemisphere ones are flat with a slight downward bend where they bolt to a fabricated top mount.
I would have guessed that you knew all of this (and more than I do on the LP2 type :salute:)

Hi Lynn, what about this one? Could be correct for the Mk.III?

Petr, I have no idea! Never seen that type before. Does it carry a part number on that plate on the l/h side?

Wise move, even more so in Australian climate.

Lynn, there is "FORD GEFA 8242?" on the brass rectangular plate on front top right corner.
On the back side there is a copper slider bar (upside down) marked "Chausson Garantie No. 1773306".
Chausson is a french automotive company, right?
So, another mystery part on my carrier :yappy:

I have found a company that makes nice ally rads but the header tank is different in that it's thinner and does not have the over hang with the indent for the fan... They are three core high performance type affairs but not sure if the fan will fit without striking the hoses...

Richie , I had mine rebuilt by Express radiators . They have done many rads for me . They can do most jobs including filler necks .

Do they just put a new core in and keep your header tanks, or is it a full new job ?

Just a new core , kept the original top and bottom tanks

Cheers for that Lynn,
 

I haven't looked closely at UC radiators as they are usually hidden behind the engine covers, and I rarely drive them.
The LP2 top mounts are a pair of rods bolted to the upper side plates of the radiator and fitted with nuts each side of holes through the bulkhead.
You will be back in NZ before I need to fit a radiator in the UC1*

Judging by the filler neck I'd say Matford truck, perhaps brought to Czechoslovakia by the Wehrmacht. Someone may want this radiator so it would be worth putting on ebay.

http://www.german.o5m6.de/matford.html


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For the northern guys in cooler climates, Rob's photo shows the tropical core (as Chris V. said, "four and a half") I think these cores are also used in CMP Ford trucks? While I'm being unsure, I think the trucks have the bottom spigots exiting from the bottom of the bottom tank.

Another possibility would be post-war Simca truck, which probably retained the angled filler neck. Simca took over Matford after the war and continued producing flatheads until the '60s, for the Vedette and for their trucks.

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Beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder!

Yes, could be quite possibly Matford truck! Thanks for this! :)

Right I have a company making me a new rad, can someone measure the top inlets on a Can/Brit carrier and tell me how far they stick out before bending down.... My originals were chopped so have no reference