Hub remuvel
 

HI ALL
Im rying to remove the hub for a break work. I did all as in that you tube video, but I pull out the hub only few cm, than it stuks. am I missing any thing? I just dont want to use too much force.
thanks
arie

The shoes sometimes catch on the hub.

I am guessing you have removed the half shaft, removed the two nuts and seals from the end of the hub ?

Have you dialled the brake expander right in ?

I had to use a slide hammer to get mine off which were seized solid. When you do get them off you may find that the hubs have corroded patches and may need machining to correct.

Good luck !

Ps don't strike the hubs / drums with any metal hammers !!!!

Hi Arie, Have you wound the adjuster back off?
You can also disconnect the pull rod (remove a clevis pin) and push the rod back into the bisector. It might help to do this first, then adjust the brakes up tight, and then back the adjusters right off.
Your drum might be worn with a shoulder (ridge) that the brake linings will not pass.
Maybe turning the drum as you pull it will help.
If every thing else fails try undoing the bolts and nuts that hold the adjuster assembly and the bisector (actuator) assembly and carefully tap them in as you pull the drum off.
Be careful. The drum and hub assembly is heavy.
Let us know how you go.

I did took off every thing as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8CsezB46Lw

when in place, the hub rotet freely. I will try to moove the brack shoe. what I wanted to know is, if there is any other thing behind the bearing that prevent it to go out.
thanks
arie

When you pull it back, does the hub stil rotate freely? If not, then it is the shoes dragging, or there is a ridge on the inside of the drum. Lynn's advise should work.

If you pull it back to the point of sticking, and the drum will still turn freely, then you problem is either a nick or slight corrosion on the spindle or a cocked bearing. Push the drum back in, with a brass drift gently tap the outer bearing back in and try again. If the outer bearing is already off, then most it may be that you are cocking the hub as you remove it.

For the nick or the cocked bearing, and even for the shes if it isn't too tight, a little more force is fine.

OK, ONE HUB IS OUT
thank you all. I think that the shoes of the other one are sticked. I will have to use more force. will try a heayier hammer
arie

If you wind the expander right in so the shoes would be clear of the drum, then go around the outside of the drum with a rubber mallet, that sometimes helps to unstick the shoes from the drums.

Any pics of the one you have removed ?

The next best thing is to remove the two bolts and nuts that hold the brake actuator and the adjustment block and remove the shoes and the drum together.

and this is how it looks like after being closed for at list 50 years

And now the qustion is how to part the brack shoes?? I note that the spring holds the shoes installed in the inner side. do I remove the two shoes and the adjuster together??
thakns arie

Just remove the spring and they will rock out of the expander.

The shoes are handed mind so don't mix them up.

HI,
my qustion is how ro remove the spring. unlike most of brack drums i know, in this one the spring is installed in thr inner side.
thnaks
arie

They just hook over two posts on the inside of the shoes..

Adjust the adjusting screw right in to remove the load, then you pry the shoes out of the slots on the spring side, I used a bar to do this.... Then it's just a case of lifting the springs off and your done.

read the manual
 

Read the instructions in the electronic copy of the service manual I sent you almost three years ago.

When using a screwdriver to lever the shoe out the brake expander slot, use care that the brake show does not apply side pressure to the brake expander slot. If the expander is not already fractured or broken, it is quite easy to break them. In this instruction, the springs are not removed before the brake shoes are disengaged from the expander/plunger assemblies. Do not be tempted to reassemble with the springs on the outside.

It is important to observe on reassembly the adjustment plungers are left and right hand.

Good post Michael R.

They still work inside or outs side with no problems
heh :devil:

Not the same as an Australian carrier Stew. The springs form the bias that keep the shoes aligned and against the back plates.