carrier steering
 

I just thought I'd share with the group my new method of steering a carrier. On the last one I used manual linkage and tiller steering, but found it was a workout to steer even though it worked reliably. On this one I'm using hydraulic steering. I purchased two hydraulic clutch kits for hot rods and adapted it to pull the brake on when pressure was applied. This system is a lot smoother than the linkage and works very well. As I'm not trying to restore it, it gives me a lot more latitude to be inventive!

http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/13/39/25/73/tank_s10.jpghttp://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/13/39/25/73/tank_s11.jpg

It's just like an Australian LP1 Carrier! They used a similar system for their steering.

I have a T16 rear axle in my carrier and tillers with a similar arrangement to activate the brakes in it.

Yes Alex, similar, just like chalk and cheese. :)
I did have some good photos of some of the LP1 bits but(unless they are on my spare hard drive) I lost them to a cryptolocker virus.
The LP1 basically used a hydraulically operated S cam brake.
Aside from the carriers short comings due to total reliance on the brakes for steering, I suspect they had the best brakes of the lot until the T16 came along.

It would be good to see someone who is rebuilding one, run a thread on here.

I'd like to own one Lynn!

Me too! There were 161 of them give or take.

some LP1 info etc
 

This is an interesting and inspirational thread, so thank you to those that have contributed, as I have been thinking how & what I will do regarding my LP1 steering. The chances of finding another hydraulic cylinder to match the item I have; and master cylinders to complete the system will be quite a stretch.

Have attached some pics of the LP1 steering items for reference and comparison to the first post.

Some LP1 facts/history etc (subject to change if someone knows more)
The contract was for 160 LP1 BGC, as 160 Dragon units (power pack units)were ordered from Canada
Only 158 were produced, as hull 159 & 160 were possibly changed/modified for the LP2 assembly line
Hull 144 went to NZ to assist with their BGC production and design
All LP1 BGC were built at Newport Railway Wksp, Melbourne.
LP1 have a large rectangular brass ID plate, riveted to the RHF guard.

There were approx 4 build standards:

Hull 1 to 6 were pre-production models

Hull 7 to approx 56? were early build hulls, very similar to the British vehicles (British BGC/Universal Carrier fuel tank mounting system, 1 elec conduit tube coming out of dash), these vehicles also had a truck tow hitch mounted on a leaf/laminated spring to the rear armour diff shield

Hull 57? to 158 were later built hulls (revised fuel tank mounting very similar to LP2 and 2 elec conduit tubes coming out of dash). No tow hitch; however, around the hull 70s batch there were an unknown quantity of vehicles that had a different tow pintle (similar to the US style with a shaft & spring mount) mounted on a reinforced V frame above the diff.

A quantity were sent to Crete and Nth Africa for duty with Australian forces, half were lost on a ship that was torpedoed. I presume some would have been lost on Crete and others made their way to Africa.
Due to the vehicles being hard on brakes there was a lack of parts to keep them operational, they were deemed as poor/unsuitable and soon became obsolete. I think they were officially deemed obsolete in mid 43.
In 42 or 43 the Army recalled all LP1 to Base Wkps or Bandiana for salvage of parts to keep the LP2 going.
Darwin/7MD were issued 10 vehicles, due to a lack other suitable vehicles the 7MD ignored this order and retained their 10 LP1 BGC until wars end, they were later disposed of at Darwin or Mataranka after the war.

I have been able to account for 17 LP1 left in the world.

That concludes about all I know & have found concerning LP1 history.

Unfortunately there is not much history out there, there are more pics coming available as people look through archives and personal collections come to light.

costs
 

I'm sure you can buy those clutch cylinders at a speed shop, but I got the pair off ebay for about $350 Canadian and that included the master cylinders and flexible stainless wrapped brake lines. While welding I accidentally got some slag on one of the lines-burned right thru it!

One thing I regret was I used a straight threaded rod which pushed the piston in directly to the master cylinder. The initial rod was too light(I think 5/16") and it bent under the pressure required to make the brake work. I welded some angle to the rod to re-enforce it and that works fine. I should have used heavier stock for the rod from the tiller bar to the piston(maybe 1/2").