Gas pedal linkage rod
 

Hi all

Is this the correct gas pedal linkage rod? My truck is a cab13 C15a

It looks the right general size and shape but I've seen so many "linkage by Bubba" that I won't guarantee what is the only "original, correct" setup.
Are you asking because the link may look a bit long for the spacing between the holes on the pedal arm and the cross-engine arm? If so, is there any adjustment in the vertical rod to the carburetor to allow the pedal in the place you need when at idle?

It was found in the milk crate of odds and ends. The one that originally came with my truck was a poorly made one from various bits of scrap. So was the linkage assembly on the engine.

I’ll give it a try and see how it goes. The only adjustment on my linkages is on the left side of the engine.

How much travel should the gas pedal have?

no.
 

I've got one of those laying around but all three of my trucks are adjustable and LWD sells the adjustable one

How much travel should the gas pedal have?
 

so it fully opens the carburator. Easier to adjust before you install the radiator or front clip.

Adjustment is critical
 

Hi Jordan

One of my trucks has a link like this, the other if I remember correctly has an adjustable link at that location.

One thing is critical is that you have the spring loaded override link on the other side. The problem being that either you don't get full throattle or when you put the peddle to the metal the linkage tries to push the carb past full throattle which may bend or break the carb.

Cheers Phil

Hi Jordan, This is the linkage in my C15A.
Fig 16 Page Q-9 in MB-C2 shows the linkage set up.

I like the concept of adjustability. As Phil said, being able to have the pedal on the floor without jamming the carburetor and also having the linkage relaxed at idle is good.
I may have to make an adjustable link, should be easy enough. The hardest part may be cross drilling the rod for a cotter pin so I may need to make a jig (actually, I should make/buy jigs for both plain rods and for drilling bolts for cotter pins and castle nuts).

A center punch and a drill press go a long way towards drilling roundstock. Add to that the self centering drill bits commonly available today and there should be no need for a jig.

Simple jig
 

I have welded a piece of angle iron to a piece of square tubing
so I could clamp it in the vise on the drill press. Then make sure that when you pull the drill bit down as if you were drilling that it hits the bottom of the V in the angle. Then sit the round stock in the angle iron and it will not move and the hole will be centred when you drill.