Chevy Front Hub lubricant
 

Can any one advise me please on the correct lubricant for the CV joints on my C15TA which has the same axles as on other CMP Chevy vehicles.

I am used to using Gear Oil on British vehicles, but the manual talks about inserting gease up to the level of the plug. This is obviously difficult unless we are talking about a semi fluid grease.

Any comments please.

I am also looking for a Chevy Condensor Can if any one has one for sale.

The same grease used on the wheel bearings is used in the knuckles. This is common on North American closed knuckle axles. Also a heck of a lot easier to keep the fluid in them. Don't worry if it seems a bit thick. After a while, the inner seals will usually leak a bit of oil to help thin out the grease.

Have you clean out all the old gluck?
 

I assume that if you are asking this question you have or are about to clean the old grease oil and dirt out of the CV housings. Nasty job but probably worth it if you don't know the last time it as done.

After cleaning I repacked my trucks with wheel bearing grease several pounds of the stuff. Also each spring when going over the truck for the season I remove the plugs screw in grease fittings and fire some more bearing grease in while turning the wheels. Usually give them 10-20 shots with the pneumatic grease gun.

Gentlemen

Thank you for the information.

The reason I am asking is because this is a new vehicle for me and the more you look at a Canadian vehicles, the more similarities I find with their American cousins. Hopefully this is not too controversial statement to make.

Not to me anyway - the CMP was a truck built to British design specifications using American technology and manufacturing techniques.

A wolf in sheep's clothing?!? ;)

H.

Whats the difference in Grease Number 1 and Number 2.

I note that Grease Number 2 is specified for the CV joints whilst Grease Number 1 is used for other applications on the vehicle.

The grease is stiffer
 

Neil- If I understand it the WWII vintage grease was rated for temperature range, look at the lubrication chart you will note that Grease No. 0 is for temperatures +10F Down to -10F, while Grease No. 1 was for +10F up while Grease No. 2 was listed for 70F to -25 F. Modern grease is not as prone to change in property as grease of 60 years ago. I have several manuals covering my HUP and what is specified changes from No1 to just grease as time goes by, now this may have been just to ease supply.

As some of the earlier post on this thread indicate the issue is probably as much regular lubrication as anything else. The grease plugs on the drive balls are the same size as grease fittings and for a while I used to just screw in a grease fitting each spring and shoot in some new grease. Then I thought about it and realized that the new grease was ending up at the outside of this ball of grease. Now I take a piece of clear tubing and slipped it on to grease fitting. Remove the plug and insert the tube with the wheel jacked up I move it just a little bit so that the tube is slipping all the way into the center of the knuckle then I shoot in 10 shots of fresh wheel/chassis grease. This way the new grease starts out in the center. Be careful not to rotate the wheel enough to catch the end of the tube in the balls of the knuckle.

That sounds like a very good suggestion which I must try.

Regarding the grease, I was just wondering if they were suggesting using a modern CV type lubricant rather than a general purpose Grease.

Re: The grease is stiffer
 

Hi Phil...
In some applications ,bearing housings are drilled with two or more ports...
One is for a grease fitting and one or more are relief ports...and usually they are either 1/8" or 1/4" pipe threads,In Canada or US equipment...
Many's a seal has been blown out and bearings damaged from over greasing,as the bearings tend to overheat with an over abundance of grease..
So ensure that relief ports are removed when greasing ...
Give that old grease somewhere to go as the new stuff is pumped in..


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