electric??
 

Whats the best volts for my carrier 12volt or 6volt, doing wiring over and can't decide, what do you lads have in yours? Please advise.


CHEERS BIG MIKE

6 volts is fine.
 

Mike,

I run both my Carrier with 6 volts and the original generators. If well maintained they start, run, and charge as well as a 12 or 24 volt setup.

With the old car guys parts suppliers pumping out bulbs, voltage regulators, cutouts and batteries in all voltages, the 6 volt stuff is no more expensive to set up than something 'more modern'.

Once the coil on the distributor is fixed on the flatty, all is well.



Stewart

PS - for all the guys who might need one, our pal, Tommy Allen has a rebuilt Ford for sale. he told me that he wants $2K for it, and it has a few hours on it driving his big welder on the back of that truck of his. The 2 he has on the beast now run fine, so I suspect that tis one would be just the thing to slip into any CMPers Xmas stocking ...
:eek:

due to the fact that im still sorting out my gen myself i run both 6 and 12 volt systems. yea i know redneck.

well i have a 12 vlt for the starter, radio, and lights. the 6 volt is for the eng. i have to recharge the system about 1 day per every 10-15 days of use. its just a stopgap system but it works.

I usually go with a 6 and 12 volt system as well. I put the biggest battery I can find into the battery box mounted on the rear armour, and use a regular 6 volt in the battery box down on the floor. When the starter button is engaged, it clicks a 6 volt solenoid which allows 12 volt current to run through to the starter motor. It usually needs recharging about once a year, and does away with the trouble starting which is predominant on hot summer days.
The generator, lights, etc all remain 6 volt.

6v with 12v kick-in?
 

Rob

Fantastic idea. Any chance of a diagram, pictures or more exact details.:salute:

Installation is simple. Mount a 6 volt solenoid somewhere near the transmission. Install the largest 12 volt battery you can fit into the armoured battery box. Run a cable from the positive of that battery to ground. Run another heavy guage cable from the neg terminal to one of the large studs on the solenoid. From the other large solenoid stud, run a large cable to the stud on the starter, while removing the origional cable from the 6 volt system from the starter. Off that origional large cable, join it to a smaller guage wire (12 guage should do) and run that wire to the small terminal on the solenoid. Now when you engage the starter button on the dash, it energises on the 6 volt solenoid which puts through 12 volts to the starter.
The 6 volt system remains in place for everything but the starter motor. The puky 15 amp charging system can now keep up with the load, and the coil doesn't have to fight with the starter motor for energy during start-up.

On a MkII Carrier it is even easier, as they had dispensed with the starter button by then. Just hook the 12volt battery up to the starter, positive ground. When you lift up on the starter rod, it starts effortlessly.

Like Rob said - with no load from the starter motor, the 6volt system can fire the engine easily. I charge the 12 volt battery yearly, as it is a big one, and only gets used to spin the starter a few revolutions.


Stewart