F15 For Sale in Warragul , Australia
 

For sale :

1942 F15 CMP cab/chassis located at Warragul, Vic. Australia.

Good points : vehicle is mechanically complete, has 2 doors fitted.
Appears to be a Aussie cab .

Bad points : rusted out chassis rear crossmember , rusted out w/screen frames, rust in cab rear and roof.

Price $1000 ONO , if not sold in next 5 months , will be broken up for scrap.

Contact Angus during work hours on. 03 59413793

F15
 

Tell him he's dreamin'

It may have the doors but looking at the rust, they may not be any good either. Perhaps the Ford badge is the best bit?

I'll have the chassis and running gear, please - sounds like a perfect candidate to turn into a CMP Umbau-Wagen.

All kidding aside, what are the differences between a Cab 11/12 F15 chassis and a Cab 13 chassis?

H.

F15
 

The owner is moving to QLD next May . I thought , as the vehicle is close to Melbourne and is complete , it would be a more attractive proposition for the locals , rather than having to pay big dollars to have one transported from interstate . The chassis rust is a easy fix , fold a new rear member up and bolt it in .

I am sure , come next April , if somebody offered scrap price , around 300 , they would get it . The gas axe is waiting for this relic . How many 1942 F15 's are left out there this close to Melbourne ?

Remember the FJ Holdens we could buy for $20 in the early 1970's and drive around as paddock bombs , I do . Try finding a half decent one now for under $1000 , you wouldn't have a hope .

Mike

F15 for scrap
 

The cab 13 F15 in town here is still in one piece , but not for much longer . The owner is getting itchy feet , he's going North in two months and the cutting torch is almost lit as I write this.

I will save it , as it's local to me and transporting it isn't a problem , but I have too many other projects in line .

The motor in it turns over on a hand crank , so it's not seized , compression is not there but it probably has stuck valves ?
( optomistic or what !) engine oil looks fairly clean for its age . Cab is totally rusted out , only thing worth saving is the floor ! Steering box is very worn too ( are these easy to fix ? ) . Chassis is good .


The motor has a divers bell dissy in it . Is that correct for a 13 cab F15 ?

I had Ford parts , but gave away most of it ....... now I need em .

Mike

2
 

Steering wheel has survived intact . The windscreen glass is barely hanging in the frames as the rust is chronic .

Yeh or Nay . Is it worth saving ?

Mike

If no one else wants the front axle and springs, rear axle and springs, I could probably use them.

Hugh Thompson may be interested in the engine.

Is it too much trouble to store it at your place?

project
 

Max

I would hate to see it cut up for spares as the chassis is excellent . It's really a project for a future CMP lover . With some TLC it would be a runner .

Firewood truck for here maybe .....

Mike

Well, if you think it has got a chance to run again, it maybe worth keeping it together. I do have a really good 13 cab, that would look nice on it.

Hi Mike,

If you are willing to take n break it, I would like to share in the parts, Eric (another MLU member) & I need parts for our F15A's....:
RH fuel Tank (I have a very sad LH one I was going to convert)
2 Wheels, (one spare for me and one for Eric whom has rusty ones)
Steering Wheel (better than mine)
Speedo (for BOB in Adelaide HAIL BOB)
Rear X member (mine is banana'd)
Bumper (Save the bumpers & brushguards!)
Glass Windows (my glass is wrecked by heat)
Radiator (For Erics Blitz)
Hatch (For Eric)
sidevalve V8 (as mine is a "maybe I chuck im")
I am willing to chip in fuel for delivery to your place. (its $1.30 a litre today)
If it get all used up that is good. THe rest can THEN be scrapped.

Other useful parts for other MLU members are:

Fuel Transfer lever and valve
Generator
The two other wheels
Generator regulator
Wiper Motors *(vacuum)
Brake Master Cylinder
Front Guards
Door mechanisms
Mirror mounts
Front grille if straight
Ford Badge?
Shock absorbers
Overflow tank? (rare as)
Gear lever knobs
FRONT head light rims
Blackout lights
transfer cases
gear box
rear tailshaft
Rear Handbrake cable
inspection plate cover
Tac Plates?
Chassis would be good for bracing and spare rails.

In my opinion, well worthy of Saving.

MLU members pay freight or pick up bits and donate some 'labour' funds to you for removing parts.

I will pick up parts later in the year, or Eric will collect.

F15A
 

Mike,
Sthpac is correct, we are interested in it. I don't live too far away, so I could come and have a look at it.
Please PM me. Do you have any photos of the front of the vehicle? Does it have a roof hatch and radiator?

cheers

Eric Szalanda

I had a look
 

Here are the good points:

It has a Ford badge.
It has an original horn (dented).
Drivetrain complete.
Comes with good left-hand door and spare gearbox (not sighted)

Bad points:
It has been comprehensively worn out.
The steering has almost a full turn of slop.
Uni joints knackered
Diff pinion bearing worn
No sheetmetal usable
Side steps so worn you can see the ground through them
Even the chassis is stuffed.

It has 20" wheels front and 16" rear with chevron tyres which have gone hard. There is a spare 16" rim which looks to have been sandblasted on the rear of the chassis.

Owner firm on $500 and says that is not negotiable. "It can rot there" (and will probably continue to do so).

It would seem he's departing for warmer climes leaving a past life here.

Engine condition unknown - miraculously it's not seized.
There's also a Chev front shell with a knock in the left side and the lower part of the grille rotted out.

One of the goodies
 

Is the horn.

Chev front shell
 

But not too good either.

Keith how bad is the Chassis ? is it rusted out or bent ?? I am thinking this might be a good parts donor for another Blitz i have found locally but without the drive train .
Do you have anymore photos ??


Thanks for any info .

Plushy :D

Drive train
 

The drive train would be OK if you only wanted something static as it appears to be completely rooted not to put too fine a point on it.

As for the chassis the worst part I saw was as Mike mentioned the rear crossmember, but the rest is pretty rusty too.

More pics
 

The tyres look OK from a distance and would suit a static restoration.

Another pic
 

This gives some idea of the rust penetration.

Last pic
 

Here's the engine bay.

As I mentioned earlier the engine turns but you really don't know the condition unless you take a head off.

I suspect it's probably stuffed like the rest of it but you never know...

Thanks for the extra info Keith , i will give this one a miss as i am intending on building a running vehicle .

Plushy