Quote:
Originally Posted by NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)
Hi Bob
I put up to 135fpt and noting happend yet  but your right for the flex joint you dont want vibration in the systeme  and i was to cheap to go buy the ball valves i found 2 normal one in my father garage  and that mabe wy i losing 40fpt in like 2 at 3 hours whent i test it  but for the umidity i wonder if juste the water filter will be good for painting 
thx |
Couple of points..As a licensed refrigeration mechanic and gas fitter I can offer you some tips with the piping
Using copper is ok,if you use type "L" or type "K"..high pressure and seamless..or ACR seamless refrigeration tubing..
I have personally put up to 1500 psi on these types of copper tubing ,using nitrogen ,so know from first hand experience that these grades of copper tubing will stand up for years of good use.
Type "M" copper,like plumbing copper found at Home depot has a seam in it and will rupture under higher pressure..
These letters are all ways printed on the copper pipe so you know what you are getting.
Use silfos, or silver solder(low temperature)..Install a drain on your storage tank..auto blowdowns are available...
Your air inlet on your compressor usually has an air filter on it..Take it off and pipe your air inlet outside and then re install your air filter outside..where it can draw relatively clean air..It doesn't matter how clean you try to keep your shop your air compressor will eventually draw in grit,paint fumes gasoline fumes and all sorts of obnoxious crap which will kill your compressor in no time..unless you pipe your air intake outside..Don't forget to put a vibration eliminator on your air inlet line..
Good luck..Install auto blowdowns on your drip legs and you are away..
